Doing 1st maintenance this weekend.

[fan of fanboys]

I bought this 1999 4runner back in Feb with 249K miles

Previous owner did a great job with scheduled and preventive maintenance

I am near 253K miles so this weekend I am going to get a few things done. Here is my list. Thoughts? Anything missing? Something on that does not need to be?

Clean MAF and TB
Change oil/oil filter
New PCV valve
New air filter
New fuel filter (last done at 219K miles)

I am also curious whether or not I should change spark plugs/wires? They were last done at 219K miles.

Both O2 sensors were done at 217K miles, so I should be good on those right?

Water pump and timing belt were done at 187K miles so I should be good there.

Upper and lower ball joints and suspension bushings were done, OEM, at 150K miles. So I planned to wait for another 30K-50K miles before doing again.

Anything else anyone can recommend? Anything I have I do not need to do? Is SeaFoam worth doing or can/should I skip?

 

[fan of fanboys]

I will add I get 18-19 MPG, it runs great, no issues. As mentioned, the previous owner did a good job. I just want to keep it going. Cheaper to fix before something breaks than after something breaks.

 

[fan of fanboys]

Oh, and one more unrelated thing: recently I have started hearing a squealing/squeaking while driving. I do not hear it at higher speeds, unsure if because of road noise or if it goes away, and I do not hear it at idle. I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from. Just know it is from the front somewhere.

Any quick thoughts on what to check for that? Started maybe month or so ago?

 

[fan of fanboys]

Oh, few more things

PO gave me a box with some stuff in it.

Does anyone need a passenger side mirror? What about two springs? They were in a box and I do not need.

He also included 3 oil filters: Fram Tough Guard TG3614, NAPA Gold 1348, and STP Extended Life S3675XL

I know the NAPA and Fram fit but can't confirm if the STP fits?

 

[TheDurk]

Fuel filter I would hold off. I do mine at 80k, Yoyota says they're "lifetime" (they aren't).

If copper plugs, they are due at 30k. Wires should be good for 80-100k. Likewise exhaust sensors.

I'd do all the other other fluids, including coolant, just to have a baseline, unless you have exact info.

Obviously, you need to check pads and rotors. If brake fluid is dark or known to be two years old or more, I'd do that, too.

Squeal/squeak is probably aux. belts or an idler bearing. Lots of info on chasing that.

 

[StreetCreeper]

I agree on holding off on the fuel filter.

While I also agree that fuel filters are not lifetime parts – I do have the original fuel filter with 424,000 miles on my truck and it seems to work just fine. Perhaps I just got lucky though.

I'll replace it soon – not because it is malfunctioning, but rather because I'm just curious what it looks like inside after nearly half a million miles.

 

[fan of fanboys]

Fuel filter I would hold off. I do mine at 80k, Yoyota says they're "lifetime" (they aren't).

If copper plugs, they are due at 30k. Wires should be good for 80-100k. Likewise exhaust sensors.

I'd do all the other other fluids, including coolant, just to have a baseline, unless you have exact info.

Obviously, you need to check pads and rotors. If brake fluid is dark or known to be two years old or more, I'd do that, too.

Squeal/squeak is probably aux. belts or an idler bearing. Lots of info on chasing that.

I do not know if the plugs were copper or not. I can change those and keep the wires.

As far as other fluids and maintenance here is what I know:


- Differential/Transfer Oils done at 243k
- Steering Rack Bushings done at 243k
- Rear Brake Bell Cranks done at 237k
- Tires Balanced and Alignment done at 235k
- Front and Rear Brakes (Discs and Pads and Drums and Shoes) done at 235k
- Rear catalytic Converter, Muffler, and both O2 sensors done at 217k
- Radiator and Transmission fluid replaced at 207k (September 2012)

 

[fan of fanboys]

So, for now, my weekend looks like this:

Clean MAF and TB
Change oil/oil filter
New PCV valve
New air filter
New spark plugs

Thoughts?

I will see what I can find out with the squeal is stemming from. Drives me crazy when driving around

 

[3bears]

Fuel filter I would hold off. I do mine at 80k, Yoyota says they're "lifetime" (they aren't).

If copper plugs, they are due at 30k. Wires should be good for 80-100k. Likewise exhaust sensors.

I'd do all the other other fluids, including coolant, just to have a baseline, unless you have exact info.

Obviously, you need to check pads and rotors. If brake fluid is dark or known to be two years old or more, I'd do that, too.

Squeal/squeak is probably aux. belts or an idler bearing. Lots of info on chasing that.

Agree with above, esp if its an automatic with no history of a trans flush. If you do a trans flush....don't have a shop do a power flush, do it yourself, lots of info here for that, and don't strip your drain plug, that's a common one, use new crush washers and the correct torque

If no record of a radiator replacement, that is a preventative you should think about in the future, esp if you have an automatic.

Power steering flush, don't know about that one, how often, however, mine was dealer maintained before I bought it, one of the things the dealer did was a power steering flush when owner complained about noise. Don't use power steering fluid.

change out your rear differential breather. I was told by a retired Toyota dealer mechanic, that it is prob the main reason these rigs blow rear axle seals. ( or do the breather mod), the front diff breather is not exposed to all the mud, road grime that plugs the rear diff. The excess pressure blows past the seals. When ever they did an axle seal, they also replaced the breather.


pull the rear abs sensors and see if you have oil down in that hole, if so you have axle seals starting to go out.

and if changing all your fluids ( diff, transfer cases) open fill plugs first. They can get pretty stuck, and if you drain the fluids then cant get the fill plug out...your in for a nightmare because you cat refill from the drains.

 

[fan of fanboys]

Agree with above, esp if its an automatic with no history of a trans flush. If you do a trans flush....don't have a shop do a power flush, do it yourself, lots of info here for that, and don't strip your drain plug, that's a common one, use new crush washers and the correct torque

If no record of a radiator replacement, that is a preventative you should think about in the future, esp if you have an automatic.

Power steering flush, don't know about that one, how often, however, mine was dealer maintained before I bought it, one of the things the dealer did was a power steering flush when owner complained about noise. Don't use power steering fluid.

change out your rear differential breather. I was told by a retired Toyota dealer mechanic, that it is prob the main reason these rigs blow rear axle seals. ( or do the breather mod), the front diff breather is not exposed to all the mud, road grime that plugs the rear diff. The excess pressure blows past the seals. When ever they did an axle seal, they also replaced the breather.


pull the rear abs sensors and see if you have oil down in that hole, if so you have axle seals starting to go out.

and if changing all your fluids ( diff, transfer cases) open fill plugs first. They can get pretty stuck, and if you drain the fluids then cant get the fill plug out...your in for a nightmare because you cat refill from the drains.

I posted above but I think all the major fluids have been flushed.

 

[repo]

I agree on holding off on the fuel filter.

While I also agree that fuel filters are not lifetime parts – I do have the original fuel filter with 424,000 miles on my truck and it seems to work just fine. Perhaps I just got lucky though.

I'll replace it soon – not because it is malfunctioning, but rather because I'm just curious what it looks like inside after nearly half a million miles.

I read an article about it a while ago, Toyota designed the EFI fuel filters to last 1,000,000 km in the third world. I replaced mine at 190k for no real reason, with a NAPA gold filter. I think I will switch it back to Denso soon and then leave it alone.

 

[repo]

I would replace the radiator and coolant with Toyota brand mixed with distilled water for peace of mind. It's quite easy. I did the thermostat and hoses while I was at it. The previous thermostat was in upside down, pay attention to the orientation. Having it the right way up lowered the temp slightly. I know people do the dedicated transmission cooler but I don't tow and it gets very cold here and I wasn't sure how it would affect things in the cold.

And be careful with the PCV valve and grommet, mine disintegrated.

 

[shahsmerdis]

You hit it on the nail with the brake fluid. its a very over looked fluid but so important. depending on how rusty the calipers are you might want to take the brake pads off and clear off the rust where the pads meet the calipers .

you might want to also replace the rear diff breather if its new its probably over due depending on if you live in the rust belt.

might as well do a transmission drain and fill its so simple on this car.

pretty much most of the things listed on this thread is super cheap to do by yourself. and if you have any hesitation do it. Just don't go crazy trying to do them all in one weekend. You are on the right track, you are treating your 4runner like a lady, and she will take care of you .

take a look at how old the tires are. if they are over 6 years budget to replace them.

which springs where in a box? Kinda interested here if they are rear

 

[StreetCreeper]

I read an article about it a while ago, Toyota designed the EFI fuel filters to last 1,000,000 km in the third world. I replaced mine at 190k for no real reason, with a NAPA gold filter. I think I will switch it back to Denso soon and then leave it alone.

According to Google that's about 620,000 miles of third world gas.

I don't know anything about 3rd world fuel but I'll hazzard a guess that the fuel isn't always as clean as more industrialized fuel – or at at least the fuel station tanks may not be (maybe I'm wrong on this IDK)

So if Toyota expects 620,000 miles on 3rd world fuel then maybe cleaner fuel might extend that range a bit.

Good to know, but I still think I'll change mine soon just so I can look inside.

 

[repo]

According to Google that's about 620,000 miles of third world gas.

I don't know anything about 3rd world fuel but I'll hazzard a guess that the fuel isn't always as clean as more industrialized fuel – or at at least the fuel station tanks may not be (maybe I'm wrong on this IDK)

So if Toyota expects 620,000 miles on 3rd world fuel then maybe cleaner fuel might extend that range a bit.

Good to know, but I still think I'll change mine soon just so I can look inside.

I think it will look dirty, but is still supposed to work, they just have a much bigger reserve than earlier kinds so even if it's down to 20% it works the same as a pre-EFI kind that was at 100%. Maybe it's BS who knows.

 

[nobb]

If you're doing the PCV valve, it would be a good idea to change out the PCV grommet too.

Also, if you're cleaning the throttle body, it would also be a good idea to clean the IAC as well because all the gunk washes out into that valve. But keep in mind that if you do too good of a job cleaning, you may get a high idle afterwards (common problem).

Your squeal could be from a bad A/C idler bearing, fan clutch bracket, or timing belt idler bearings. You said the timing belt + pump was changed out but no mention of the idler bearings. If those seize, you snap the belt.

Toyota red coolant has a recommended change interval of every 2 years.

 

[fan of fanboys]

You hit it on the nail with the brake fluid. its a very over looked fluid but so important. depending on how rusty the calipers are you might want to take the brake pads off and clear off the rust where the pads meet the calipers .

you might want to also replace the rear diff breather if its new its probably over due depending on if you live in the rust belt.

might as well do a transmission drain and fill its so simple on this car.

pretty much most of the things listed on this thread is super cheap to do by yourself. and if you have any hesitation do it. Just don't go crazy trying to do them all in one weekend. You are on the right track, you are treating your 4runner like a lady, and she will take care of you .

take a look at how old the tires are. if they are over 6 years budget to replace them.

which springs where in a box? Kinda interested here if they are rear

here is what was in the box. also have this avail.

http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r563/afloyd2/OG/F1224216-B6DC-4228-8791-AC3257C25745.jpg

http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r563/afloyd2/OG/9EC9F7A5-05CD-4112-A52A-2481EFF69B90.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Hrz4dhz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OYpbwCu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nKIAYky.jpg

 

[fan of fanboys]

If you're doing the PCV valve, it would be a good idea to change out the PCV grommet too.

Also, if you're cleaning the throttle body, it would also be a good idea to clean the IAC as well because all the gunk washes out into that valve. But keep in mind that if you do too good of a job cleaning, you may get a high idle afterwards (common problem).

Your squeal could be from a bad A/C idler bearing, fan clutch bracket, or timing belt idler bearings. You said the timing belt + pump was changed out but no mention of the idler bearings. If those seize, you snap the belt.

Toyota red coolant has a recommended change interval of every 2 years.

good info, thanks

will drain and fill radiator this weekend too