thanks...in the near future I want to go up only 2 inches... dont want to mess with brakeline...locker wires.etc
however..I was under the impression that if you went with a stock shock it would not "open" enough and you wont get the full lift when using a 3" lift spring
I was planning on my next to be tundra coils front OME springs (906) rear and billies at all 4 corners for a total of 2 inch..its listed as 2 inch over stock. so I assume that means 1 inch over "99 talls"
but the tundra springs are so expensive...might have to do something else
I have the tundra springs. Not in yet.
These are my measurements. Not super accurate cause I didn’t pull the springs and then reinstall the shocks to get full measurements. The shocks are a pain.
Initial readings:
Front 20 1/4
Rear pass 20 1/4
Rear driver 20 5/8
Initial full Droop ( axle hanging about level)
25 3/4 driver
24 7/8 pass
(Difference caused by the track bar pulling the axle to the passenger side)
Factory shock 14” to 21” center eye to bushing top
I never fully stuffed it to get a full compression reading, but given the shock travel assume it to be around 18”.
So factory I had around 2” up travel and 5” down.
If you lift 3” with stock shocks you’d have 5” of up and 2” of down.
My new extended shocks measure 15” to 23”. So 8” of travel, but that travel starts at 19” and goes to 27” (roughly).
So sitting at 22.5-23 I should have 3.5-4” up and 4-4.5” down.
That extra 2” of droop and 19” compressed point now mean the brake line and locker harness are to short, the bump stops are too short, and the track bar angle is poor.
I’ll extend the locker harness mount bracket 1/2”, bought a 19” brake line to replace the stock ~15” one. I bought 3” Daystar bump stops to replace the 3” factory and I’ll make an extended mount.
3” rather than 5” due to daystar bolt is larger than factory so the 3” allows for easy bolting internal to a bracket. 5” would complicate the bracket design.
(I’m not sure my factory bumps ever contacted the axle. The jounce bumps in the coils obviously did often.)
I bought 2nd gen rear sway bar links to correct for sway bar orientation.
I have the EM kieth(?) track bar mounts.
Not sure I’ll use both though. The axle one moves the track bar pivot point up, thus pushing(swinging) the driveline closet to the fuel tank when flexed with driver side stuffed. I’ll have to play and measure to see. May just use frame side. My lift is mild.
The front of course doesn’t change much in travel (I believe the tundra shocks add a little) you just move the ride height lower in the travel range so gain up travel but lose down travel. IFS is painful to add travel range to.
Should have started another thread.
Curios why I never see the locker harness mentioned when folks lift.
