Door check?

Lowboydrum

New member
My front right door check needs to be replaced and I refuse to pay 100$ for a new one. For some reason none of the salvage yards near me have any 4th gens and I cant seem to find one on ebay or Craigslist. Does any one know if the part number will cross reference to antoher make and model? Or if anyone has an extra that would be sweet.
 
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x3. I ordered one online once. Yes, I've broken two now. My favorites got wiped out so I'll have to do a little research to find where I ordered it. If memory serves, it was around $80.
 
I ordered one online once.
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Thanks Ruffian! Also found that the 4runner door check part number will cross reference with the Fj Cruiser.

You are welcome. Let me know if you know how to replace it too. I need to fix this but it's not on my priority list. Little anxious about pulling off the plastic interior door part!
 
Installed the Door Check on the drivers side tonight...very easy.

1. Remove armrest panel...just pry up with a straight slot (remove screw)
2. Remove small plastic cover under door opener..(remove screw)
3. Lightly pull with fingers on the door panel...it popped out. The retaining clips can be used over and the panel is now removed from door. Slide slightly up and move right to left...panel will now only be held to door by the cannon plugs that attach to the speaker, window modulator etc....disconnect them.
4. Door panel was then hung with a bungee cord to support door panel.
5. Remove speaker....4 screws. Lift up and out, it will come out with some effort.
6. Reach your hand up in the speaker hole and remove the door check by unscrewing the 2 bolts that hold it to the door panel. Remove bolt that holds the door check to car frame and pull out of the speaker hole.
7. Reverse order to put in, I put some lockTite on the bolts and made sure they were not going anywhere. I aligned everything back up and then when it was all set...tightened everything down.

Pretty simple fix....can't believe I waited a year to do this!
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Thank you for the pictures natevans65. Received my new door check on the last week and could not wait till the weekend. Replaced the old one yesterday evening and did not find any issues removing the door panel completely without using bungee cords.

Couple items that will help remove the panel from the door in addition to the steps above:

  • When you start remove a small decorative triangular plastic piece from the top right corner of the panel. Otherwise it will not allow to lift the panel from the door;
  • Disconnect the small door light lamp. You could do it when the armrest panel is removed;
  • When the panel is removed from the door ask another person to help you at this step. There is another screw on the other side of the panel that holds the door opener. While another person holds the panel remove the screw and the door opener with two cables will come out no problem. Now you should be able to remove the panel aside from the door;
Also there is another clip at the center of the door (Blue-green color). It was left in the door when the panel was removed. Do not forget to install it into the panel when installing it back. See picture from SamNavy's post, Step 8, this is the clip! I hope SamNavy removed it from the door and installed into the panel before reinstalling the panel to the door :)

My old door check was making terrible clicking sound when it was passing the middle point, almost like something will break inside. I could not stand this sound. Now it opens quiet as other 3 doors :)
 
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Can you guys confirm that the left front door part number is 68640-35020?

I can't seem to find that left front door strap for my 2004 Forerunner V6.

My bad, it looks like the left and right front door checks are the same, just flip it over depending on which door you need. It took me a while to figure out what that part was called, lol. I have the same issue as in the original post. looks like I can do it myself. I've found it for $75 online.
 
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Toyota always has weird names for things. I've never understood why they call the transmission mount a rear engine mount or the driveshaft a propeller shaft.
 
door check

I fixed mine. Both windos slide down without that nasty "tack" sound.
The problem with this checks is that they have bend a little due to an abusive door open case.
So I bend them back 2 or 3 mm.
It´s kind of hard. I use a 4lb sledge hammer to do it.
Plastic cover got a little damaged but no problem.
Hope this helps to save $160
 
door check?

I fixed mine. Now both windows slide down without that nasty "tack" sound.
The problem with this checks is that they have bend a little due to an abusive door open case.
So I bend them back 2 or 3 mm.
It´s kind of hard. I use a 4lb sledge hammer to do it.
Plastic cover got a little damaged but no problem.
Hope this helps to save $160
 
Replaced my driver's side door check today, thanks to this thread it only took 30 minutes. I put up with that nasty click sound for 5 years. LOL

Tools needed:
Phillips screw driver
10mm socket /wrench
Prying tool to remove door panel.
Bungee cord

Some photos!

New vs Old
IMG_0043_zpsgzm6tejq.jpg~original


IMG_0044_zps37nuzly5.jpg~original


Here's a pic showing the wear the door check was leaving on the bottom of the glass
IMG_0045_zpsqdb2vuji.jpg~original


Recommendations:

The door check is marked R on one side and L on the other. If you're doing driver's side then "L" should be facing up, and "R" facing up for passenger's side.

When the new door check is in place, feel inside the speaker hole with your fingers to verify there is a gap between the check and the glass.

Also sprayed the window track with SuperLube PTFE lubricant while the door panel was off, made a big difference , window rolls up and down smoothly again.

Definitely use bungee cords to hold up the panel, you'll save some time having to remove and then re-assemble the door lock cables.


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Just bought mine for $43.50 shipped on ebay. My check suddenly started squeaking this past week and is getting much worse everyday. This should do the trick.
 

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