door lock actuators

3

3bears

Senior Member
I have read other posts, threads. Just trying to confirm by telling you all the symptoms cause I don't want to spend 600 on a control board unless I have too.
2000 SR5
its been very cold, snow on the ground
walked past it this morning and heard this clunk clunk
could see it was the door locks
hit my remote one time, door unlocked, hit a second time to unlock all doors and all the door locks go up and down, repeatedly until I hit lock
get in car, put key to accessory, door locks just keep opening and closing if I hit the door lock button on drivers door. Start car, door locks work as supposed to
when the door locks are jumping back and forth their is lots of clicking from the fuse box area

so I thought maybe one of my door locks is frozen in some crazy position, opened both front doors. If I turn the key twice to unlock all, the crazy jumping up and down of the locks happens.
then I went to my tailgate, went to open it and it set off the alarm. but unlocked the tailgate, hit it twice and back to the game

so is this that expensive fuse panel thing ?

note..I live in a remote area, my power and internet will shut off in about 15 minutes and not kick back on for 3 hours
so If I don't reply to suggestions right away....that is why
 
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one detail I forgot
the day before my truck slid on ice, and hit a tree, but so slooow that it did no visible damage to the truck or the tree, except bent the licence plate
was probably less than 5mph
 
3bears said:
one detail I forgot
the day before my truck slid on ice, and hit a tree, but so slooow that it did no visible damage to the truck or the tree, except bent the licence plate
was probably less than 5mph
Click to expand...

Yup, it's the license plate!

You can always check the operation by grounding the circuit yourself and see if it still jumps, not likely but it might make you feel better about buying the Body ECU.

$600 sounds high, does that include labor?

Here is an example of one I found.

JUNCTION BLOCK | Genuine Toyota | 82730-35260
 
Sounds like you may have a short in the lock/unlock switch in one of the doors. Take each out and see if any have water in the any of the switches. Leave the ones you do not use unhooked. After that I would look in the door jams and see it you have a pinched wire. I think you have a short somewhere. I think you need more diagnostics before I spend the big bucks on the board.
 
MFreund said:
Sounds like you may have a short in the lock/unlock switch in one of the doors. Take each out and see if any have water in the any of the switches. Leave the ones you do not use unhooked. After that I would look in the door jams and see it you have a pinched wire. I think you have a short somewhere. I think you need more diagnostics before I spend the big bucks on the board.
Click to expand...

yep...im thinking I have a short too....problem is ...no place to start pulling stuff apart ( no garage)and IM supposed to get another 4-8 inches of snow today/tonight
oh well , guess it might have to wait a while. Id pull the fuse, but the fuse that works it works the horn, rear wiper, rear defrost if I remember correct.
 
IBallEngineer said:
Yup, it's the license plate!

You can always check the operation by grounding the circuit yourself and see if it still jumps, not likely but it might make you feel better about buying the Body ECU.

$600 sounds high, does that include labor?

Here is an example of one I found.

JUNCTION BLOCK | Genuine Toyota | 82730-35260
Click to expand...

I would not know how to ground the circuit.
the 600 is from what I read in other threads from door lock issues, that's parts only....it was like 567
 
I had this happen to me. It was caused by a broken license plate bezel. There are two screws that hold the rear hatch lock cylinder to the plastic license plate bezel. The plastic tabs that hold the lock cylinder can break when the key is turned in the lock cylinder (or if you hit a tree).

The broken bezel causes the rear hatch lock sensor to get confused. It doesn't know if the lock cylinder is in the locked position or the unlocked position. I called it ghost lock. The locks in my truck would randomly unlock and lock in rapid succession.

The solution was to access the inside of the rear hatch by removing the interior panel, it just pops off and pulls up. IIRC there was a plastic sheet I had to pull back. Then I removed the rear hatch lock cylinder and plugged the hole with a plastic plug from the hardware store. So, I no longer have a rear lock cylinder. However, the rear window and rear hatch lock still work from the driver controls.

Hope that makes sense. Unplug and remove the rear hatch lock cylinder, leave everything else hooked up. The ghost lock should go away.
 
Last edited:
badattitude said:
I had this happen to me. It was caused by a broken license plate bezel. There are two screws that hold the rear hatch lock cylinder to the plastic license plate bezel. The plastic tabs that hold the lock cylinder can break when the key is turned in the lock cylinder (or if you hit a tree).

The broken bezel causes the rear hatch lock sensor to get confused. It doesn't know if the lock cylinder is in the locked position or the unlocked position. I called it ghost lock. The locks in my truck would randomly unlock and lock in rapid succession.

The solution was to access the inside of the rear hatch by removing the interior panel, it just pops off and pulls up. Then I removed the lock cylinder and plugged the hole with a plastic plug from the hardware store. So, I no longer have a rear lock cylinder. However, the rear window and rear hatch lock still work from the driver controls.

Hope that makes sense. Unplug and remove the rear hatch lock cylinder, leave everything else hooked up. The ghost lock should go away.
Click to expand...


worth a shot
a few days ago when it was real cold and the truck covered in snow, I opened the rear hatch. the struts could not keep it open, it closed with a slam as I was unloading and taking stuff to my cabin
 
sooooo
still trying to figure this out
1)if a door lock actuator was acting up wouldn't that particular door not work ?
I can lock the doors using the switch on drives door and they all lock and unlock

2) I noticed that when I shut my ignition off ( from running) with the truck in park, instead of the drivers door automatically unlocking, it now locks when you turn the key off
and thinking about that part. I noticed that it had done that a few times over the past few weeks, the drivers door locking when I turn it off
 
3bears said:
sooooo
still trying to figure this out
1)if a door lock actuator was acting up wouldn't that particular door not work ?
I can lock the doors using the switch on drives door and they all lock and unlock

2) I noticed that when I shut my ignition off ( from running) with the truck in park, instead of the drivers door automatically unlocking, it now locks when you turn the key off
and thinking about that part. I noticed that it had done that a few times over the past few weeks, the drivers door locking when I turn it off
Click to expand...

OK, I guess I misread your original post, so the problem is with only the remote? Or with both the Remote AND the key cylinder switch?

And is your remote a Factory system or is it an aftermarket?
 
IBallEngineer said:
OK, I guess I misread your original post, so the problem is with only the remote? Or with both the Remote AND the key cylinder switch?

And is your remote a Factory system or is it an aftermarket?
Click to expand...

remote is factory

same things happen with remote or key....regardless of what lock/door I go to
 
3bears said:
remote is factory

same things happen with remote or key....regardless of what lock/door I go to
Click to expand...

OK so the remote is handled by the BackDoor ECU, which sends serial data to the Body ECU to lock and unlock. But the lock cylinder simply grounds terminal 11,12 or 13 of connector B16(on the front) at the Body ECU. You can simulate that by disconnecting the cylinder/key switch connector inside the door panel, or right at the Body ECU if you are careful.

Personally I would disconnect BOTH lock cylinders and try the remote. Odds are it is the Body ECU because you have failure from both sources. The switches on the door panels ground different contacts through a different connector.

By the way, it's not very difficult to remove and find the part number on it. All the connectors will only fit where they belong. No Ford type stupidity there.

:gossip:
 
[MENTION=124615]3bears[/MENTION]
Did you ever resolve your lock issue?
If so, was it as simple as replacing the fuse junction box?
 
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