Double Cardan Joint

[Tek23]

Does anyone have an updated source on where I can purchase a double cardan joint?

I've searched the web but the places I've contacted don't sell them, which included a few dealerships around my area.

OR

Recommend a place I can purchase a new driveshaft that includes the DC and u joint (with fittings).

Thanks!

 

[JayRolla]

Does anyone have an updated source on where I can purchase a double cardan joint?

I've searched the web but the places I've contacted don't sell them, which included a few dealerships around my area.

OR

Recommend a place I can purchase a new driveshaft that includes the DC and u joint (with fittings).

Thanks!

This is a big PITA if you want quality OEM parts. I finally found a good used driveshaft for $25 at a pull and pay junkyard. The double cardan is not a replaceable part from toyota. You must purchase entire shaft. THey dont even sell the u joints up front.

There are a lot of shops that rebuilt them but there is only one joint made and its very low quality. You may find different ones for sale to rebuild but are all the same low quality part. You can sometimes save your OEM ball in the joint when rebuilding yourself.

There is a shop that specializes in toyota driveshafts. He uses a OEM toyota cv joint from another vehicle to build our double cardan so it will last. He quoted me around $200 last time I checked but was awhile back. Here is a link to some good info and link to the shop that builds these with oem parts.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/double-cardan-joint.273119/

High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875

 

[Tek23]

This is a big PITA if you want quality OEM parts. I finally found a good used driveshaft for $25 at a pull and pay junkyard. The double cardan is not a replaceable part from toyota. You must purchase entire shaft. THey dont even sell the u joints up front.

There are a lot of shops that rebuilt them but there is only one joint made and its very low quality. You may find different ones for sale to rebuild but are all the same low quality part. You can sometimes save your OEM ball in the joint when rebuilding yourself.

There is a shop that specializes in toyota driveshafts. He uses a OEM toyota cv joint from another vehicle to build our double cardan so it will last. He quoted me around $200 last time I checked but was awhile back. Here is a link to some good info and link to the shop that builds these with oem parts.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/double-cardan-joint.273119/

High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875

Yeah you're right. Toyota doesn't sell them separately. I found a place near me that repairs the DCs but financially, it would be smarter to buy a new shaft. I'll most likely pickup one from Toyota through a buddy of mine. hopefully that fixes my issue.

 

[Scramble]

Yeah you're right. Toyota doesn't sell them separately. I found a place near me that repairs the DCs but financially, it would be smarter to buy a new shaft. I'll most likely pickup one from Toyota through a buddy of mine. hopefully that fixes my issue.

A new DS from Totota is like $600 with a non-rebuildable DC joint.
A Tom Woods Custom DS is only $400 with rebuildable DC using the common 1310 u-joints. Read their warranty it's incredible. I have one with no regrets.

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

 

[JayRolla]

Yeah you're right. Toyota doesn't sell them separately. I found a place near me that repairs the DCs but financially, it would be smarter to buy a new shaft. I'll most likely pickup one from Toyota through a buddy of mine. hopefully that fixes my issue.

Like he said toyota oem is pretty much out of question. You can have a custom shaft made for that. I would look into a junk yard shaft, rebuild from Highline for around $200 or custom shaft for $400+.

 

[Tek23]

A new DS from Totota is like $600 with a non-rebuildable DC joint.
A Tom Woods Custom DS is only $400 with rebuildable DC using the common 1310 u-joints. Read their warranty it's incredible. I have one with no regrets.

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

Like he said toyota oem is pretty much out of question. You can have a custom shaft made for that. I would look into a junk yard shaft, rebuild from Highline for around $200 or custom shaft for $400+.

I apologize if there's any confusion. Snowboarding might have given me a slight concussion causing my grammar to fail me lol. Toyota doesn't sell pieces separately but will sell me a brand new shaft with zerk fittings for under $350.
I just can't imagine the DC joint failing because of a lift. I'm almost certain the pervious owners never greased any of the joints and with the angle, it failed.

Would there be an advantage of having rebuildable DCs other than the ability to fix them if they fail?

 

[JayRolla]

I apologize if there's any confusion. Snowboarding might have given me a slight concussion causing my grammar to fail me lol. Toyota doesn't sell pieces separately but will sell me a brand new shaft with zerk fittings for under $350.
I just can't imagine the DC joint failing because of a lift. I'm almost certain the pervious owners never greased any of the joints and with the angle, it failed.

Would there be an advantage of having rebuildable DCs other than the ability to fix them if they fail?

Thats an insane price on an OEM. Go and get that.

 

[Scramble]

Would there be an advantage of having rebuildable DCs other than the ability to fix them if they fail?

TW u-joints are bigger & stronger than OEM. I also ordered a 3" DS as opposed to 2.5 OEM. If you're crawling with big tires or doing burnouts like I am, bigger is better.

Toyota's warranty is one year, TW is for life.

 

[Tek23]

TW u-joints are bigger & stronger than OEM. I also ordered a 3" DS as opposed to 2.5 OEM. If you're crawling with big tires or doing burnouts like I am, bigger is better.

Toyota's warranty is one year, TW is for life.

That's good to know

 

[Tek23]

Like he said toyota oem is pretty much out of question. You can have a custom shaft made for that. I would look into a junk yard shaft, rebuild from Highline for around $200 or custom shaft for $400+.

FML! Toyota ordered the front shaft…which now brings the total to 800 for the correct one. I contacted Tom Woods earlier today. I might go through them if i can’t find a decent aftermarket online.

 

[infamousRNR]

TW u-joints are bigger & stronger than OEM. I also ordered a 3" DS as opposed to 2.5 OEM. If you're crawling with big tires or doing burnouts like I am, bigger is better.

Toyota's warranty is one year, TW is for life.

^^^^^^^^


i like this guy

 

[Scramble]

^^^^^^^^


i like this guy

LOL, after I put in my Marlin HD clutch I was burning a little rubber. 1st Gear & reverse are easy. That's how I efed up the double cardan. That clutch grabs like a mother. That was with 265 HT's. I'm scared to try it with my 285 MT's. They're too new & sticky still. :roll::becky:

 

[jeremyc74]

What are the symptoms when this thing goes bad? I have a noise in my driveline right now that I can't find, and I'm starting to suspect it's this joint.

I can hear it at low speeds, and it sounds like a light grinding noise. The frequency is faster than the axles are turning, so I originally suspected it was the pinion bearing. I got under there and everything feels fine. If it were the pinion bearing I'd expect it to be sloppy enough to start leaking, but it's bone dry.

The center piece in the DC joint looks like it's sitting at a slight angle (left to right when looking at it from the bottom), but I've never really paid attention to it before now so I don't know if that's an issue. :der:

 

[Andy in Pa]

Do some more research on here on this subject. I had Quigley 4x4 in Manheim, Pa. build me a custom shaft using the same parts for the DC that are commonly available in any store (basically Jeep joints). I put all of the part numbers he used for the flanges and everything in that post. It was $450 (plus tax), same price as a TW shaft, and excellent quality. The persons name at Quigley is Brian Ross. Nice guy, and very knowledgeable on this exact subject.

A.

 

[Andy in Pa]

I just can't imagine the DC joint failing because of a lift. I'm almost certain the pervious owners never greased any of the joints and with the angle, it failed.

The reason why this seems to happen after a lift is because of the wear pattern on the DC when at normal "unlifted" ride height. Like most, I am sure your 4R has over 100K miles, and DC's tend to "wear in" at a certain angle, especially if they are not greased regularly. When the truck is lifted, that angle changes which changes the wear pattern. This allows moisture and dirt in through the races and grooves in the old wear pattern. Its a common problem that happens to a recently lifted high mileage vehicle. For some reason 3rd gen 4R's seem to be very susceptible to it.

 

[Tek23]

What are the symptoms when this thing goes bad? I have a noise in my driveline right now that I can't find, and I'm starting to suspect it's this joint.

I can hear it at low speeds, and it sounds like a light grinding noise. The frequency is faster than the axles are turning, so I originally suspected it was the pinion bearing. I got under there and everything feels fine. If it were the pinion bearing I'd expect it to be sloppy enough to start leaking, but it's bone dry.

The center piece in the DC joint looks like it’s sitting at a slight angle (left to right when looking at it from the bottom), but I've never really paid attention to it before now so I don't know if that's an issue. :der:

Here’s the thread with my issue. It may give you some insight on your noise.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/214003-intermittent-problem.htm

Do some more research on here on this subject. I had Quigley 4x4 in Manheim, Pa. build me a custom shaft using the same parts for the DC that are commonly available in any store (basically Jeep joints). I put all of the part numbers he used for the flanges and everything in that post. It was $450 (plus tax), same price as a TW shaft, and excellent quality. The persons name at Quigley is Brian Ross. Nice guy, and very knowledgeable on this exact subject.

A.

Thanks for the recommendation. I’ve been searching the web and local shops like a mad man for the past few weeks. I spoke with someone at Tom Woods yesterday/today. Hope to have my shaft in by the end of next week. Fingers crossed that fixes the issue.

The reason why this seems to happen after a lift is because of the wear pattern on the DC when at normal "unlifted" ride height. Like most, I am sure your 4R has over 100K miles, and DC's tend to "wear in" at a certain angle, especially if they are not greased regularly. When the truck is lifted, that angle changes which changes the wear pattern. This allows moisture and dirt in through the races and grooves in the old wear pattern. Its a common problem that happens to a recently lifted high mileage vehicle. For some reason 3rd gen 4R's seem to be very susceptible to it.

I’m a little over 100k. Considering the truck had original plugs and wires when i purchased it, my suspicion is that the joints were never greased. I greased them when i first started hearing the noise a few weeks ago. There was barely anything that came out.

 

[jeremyc74]

Here’s the thread with my issue. It may give you some insight on your noise.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/214003-intermittent-problem.htm

That link doesn't seem to be working. Can you post it again? Thanks!

 

[Tek23]

That link doesn't seem to be working. Can you post it again? Thanks!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/214003-intermittent-problem.html

If it doesn't work again, go into my profile and look at the threads I've created.

 

[Ol'Blue]

If you have anymore issue call the guys at Powertrain Industry's in Springfield Mo. All they do is drive line work. They really know there shit too. I had them build fron front drive shaft and they made it beefey to hold up to my 37s and wheeling hard.They are all I use for this type of stuff in our shop. Matter of fact I just had a F250 front drive shaft sent to them last week because the DC failed and it literally blew up the transfer case.He also had the front hubs locked in at this time while driving down the hwy at 65 mpg.

They are fully stocked with everything Spicer and I know they carry the DC in the shop. See what they have to say.

Blue