Double Check My Purchase, Please!

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FoxNJ

New member
Hey everyone! I haven't pulled the trigger on a 4Runner yet, but I'm really close. However, before I write the check, I'd like to see what you all think about the price, condition, previous maintenance, ect.

Here's the basic info and what I've learned about the particular 4Runner I'm looking at:
-I found a 2007 V6 4wd SR5 with 80k on it.
-They are asking 17,986 for it and they wouldn't budge below 17,786.
-The exterior is flawless except for a small scuff on the hood that I know I can polish out.
-The interior is a 7/10. The rear head rests are fraying at the seams, deep scuffs on the plastic interior, a mark or two from a sharpie.
-Every feature works like its supposed to.
-I found all 8 years of maintenance records on the Toyota Owners website and its immaculate. Never had a problem, and regular maintenance was always done at a top 10 Toyota dealership.
-On the test drive, it was silent. No squeaks or rattles. Tracked straight and no vibrations from the pedals or steering wheel at 75mph. She gets up and goes too (I was surprised she had some real power from the V6)!

To get into the 4Runner, I'm trading in a 2011 VW GTI with 30k on it. So jumping to 80k on a 7 or 8 year old car scares me a little bit. I know these cars last forever, but 80k is lot of miles to me.

Let me know what you think. Are there specific questions about the 4Runner I should have the answer to before I buy it? What kind of maintenance should I expect over the next 3 years/30k?
 
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Did you test ALL functions of the 4wd system?

4 hi unlocked center diff
4 hi locked center diff
4 lo unlocked center diff
4 lo locked center diff

and back to 2 hi.

If it doesn't work in ALL modes, either have the dealer fix it or pass on the vehicle.

Also if you're on the East coast or in the rust belt make sure you check for rust on the frame and underbody.

Price sounds a tad high to me but for the low miles it's probably worth it, especially if you live in an area where finding a clean 4x4 is difficult. What color is it? I paid an extra $1000 for mine over my budget because I really, really didn't want a gray, silver, white or black vehicle and the SRP (Salsa red pearl, i.e. maroon) was gorgeous.
 
Martinjmpr said:
Did you test ALL functions of the 4wd system?

4 hi unlocked center diff
4 hi locked center diff
4 lo unlocked center diff
4 lo locked center diff

and back to 2 hi.

If it doesn't work in ALL modes, either have the dealer fix it or pass on the vehicle.

Also if you're on the East coast or in the rust belt make sure you check for rust on the frame and underbody.

Price sounds a tad high to me but for the low miles it's probably worth it, especially if you live in an area where finding a clean 4x4 is difficult. What color is it? I paid an extra $1000 for mine over my budget because I really, really didn't want a gray, silver, white or black vehicle and the SRP (Salsa red pearl, i.e. maroon) was gorgeous.
Click to expand...

This is exactly why I wanted to make a post like this. I didn't check the 4wd that thoroughly. I still want to take it to my mechanic for the peace of mind and I suppose that's when Ill check the 4wd. Im not familiar with it, so could you explain the steps for locking/unlocking the center diff?

Its silver... Im just happy its not black. My GTI is black and Im sick of seeing ever last scratch and nick in the paint.

Thanks for your help!
 
I was in the boat with you. Changed from a 2009 Lexus IS to a 2004 sport with the v8. Don't fret an older 4R. Chances are your getting a great car.

Post pics!


My 4R will have to rust to the ground (which is possible in Minnesota) for me to get rid of it.
 
FoxNJ said:
This is exactly why I wanted to make a post like this. I didn't check the 4wd that thoroughly. I still want to take it to my mechanic for the peace of mind and I suppose that's when Ill check the 4wd. Im not familiar with it, so could you explain the steps for locking/unlocking the center diff?

Its silver... Im just happy its not black. My GTI is black and Im sick of seeing ever last scratch and nick in the paint.

Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

To check 4wd system, here are the steps.

Assuming you are starting off in 2wd (most likely this is how the vehicle will be at the dealer, at least I would hope so.)

With the transmission in D and the vehicle moving slowly, turn the 4wd shifter knob one position to 4 hi. There are two dashboard lights in the upper right of the instrument panel with a graphic of the 4wd system (it looks like you're looking down on it from above.) One will be green with a "O" in the center and the other will be yellow with an "X" in the center. Both lights should blink and then within a few seconds, the green light should go solid and the yellow light should go out. This is 4 hi, UNLOCKED center diff.

Next, with the vehicle still moving slowly, push the center diff lock (CDL) button (to the left of the steering column.) Again both the yellow and green 4wd graphics will flash, but then the green light should go out and the yellow light with the X will be lit up solid. The ABS and VSC OFF lights will also be illuminated. This is 4 hi LOCKED center diff.

It's not a good idea to make a lot of turns on a dry, paved road with the center diff locked, so once you've verified that it is on, push the CDL button again, both 4wd graphics will flash and then the yellow light will go out and the green light will stay on solid and the ABS and VSC lights will go off.

Next, come to a COMPLETE STOP.

With your foot on the brake, put the transmission in neutral. Then turn the 4wd dial to 4 lo. The green and yellow lights will flash and a "4 lo" indicator on the dash will flash for a few seconds and then should stay solid, along with the green 4wd graphic. This is 4 Lo UNLOCKED center diff. Put the transmission back in D and drive. You will notice the vehicle going very slow compared to the engine speed, because you are now doubling the gear ratio of the transmission.

Next, come to a complete stop and press the CDL button. The green and yellow 4wd graphics will flash and then the green graphic will go out and the yellow one with the X will stay on solid, along with the ABS and VSC lights, and of course the 4LO light will also be illuminated. This is 4 Lo LOCKED center diff. (EDITED TO ADD: I actually think you can go from 4lo Unlocked CDL to 4lo Locked CDL without stopping, but to be on the safe side, you might want to stop when switching between locked and unlocked.)

Finally, come to a COMPLETE STOP. Put the transmission in Neutral, push the center diff lock button and wait for the diff to unlock, then turn the 4wd dial back to 2hi. The two 4wd graphics will blink again and then go off and the 4LO light will also go off, as well as the VSC and ABS lights.

Once they're off, you should be able to shift the transmission back to D and drive normally.

If you try to shift to 4lo and you get a constant, annoying beeping sound, one of two things has happened: Either you forgot to put the transmission in Neutral and step on the brake, OR the 4wd system has a problem.

If the two 4wd graphic lights blink constantly without ever going solid, there's a problem somewhere. However, if the 4wd system hasn't been used much, it may take a while to engage. It's OK to drive the vehicle at moderate speeds while shifting from 2hi to 4hi, and in fact, sometimes driving the vehicle will help move the moving parts into position. I think the longest it's ever taken mine to engage is maybe 30 seconds (on a really cold day.)

I've honestly never had problems with my CDL, so I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that one.

I won't get into possible problems or fixes, I'll just say that if the 4wd doesn't work, don't buy it unless you get it in the sales contract that the dealer will fix the 4wd system before you buy it. No matter how nice it is, don't buy it if it's not working right because this is an expensive ($3000) problem to fix.
 
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Martinjmpr said:
To check 4wd system, here are the steps.

Assuming you are starting off in 2wd (most likely this is how the vehicle will be at the dealer, at least I would hope so.)

With the transmission in D and the vehicle moving slowly, turn the 4wd shifter knob one position to 4 hi. There are two dashboard lights in the upper right of the instrument panel with a graphic of the 4wd system (it looks like you're looking down on it from above.) One will be green with a "O" in the center and the other will be yellow with an "X" in the center. Both lights should blink and then within a few seconds, the green light should go solid and the yellow light should go out. This is 4 hi, UNLOCKED center diff.

Next, with the vehicle still moving slowly, push the center diff lock (CDL) button (to the left of the steering column.) Again both the yellow and green 4wd graphics will flash, but then the green light should go out and the yellow light with the X will be lit up solid. The ABS and VSC OFF lights will also be illuminated. This is 4 hi LOCKED center diff.

It's not a good idea to make a lot of turns on a dry, paved road with the center diff locked, so once you've verified that it is on, push the CDL button again, both 4wd graphics will flash and then the yellow light will go out and the green light will stay on solid and the ABS and VSC lights will go off.

Next, come to a COMPLETE STOP.

With your foot on the brake, put the transmission in neutral. Then turn the 4wd dial to 4 lo. The green and yellow lights will flash and a "4 lo" indicator on the dash will flash for a few seconds and then should stay solid, along with the green 4wd graphic. This is 4 Lo UNLOCKED center diff. Put the transmission back in D and drive. You will notice the vehicle going very slow compared to the engine speed, because you are now doubling the gear ratio of the transmission.

Next, come to a complete stop and press the CDL button. The green and yellow 4wd graphics will flash and then the green graphic will go out and the yellow one with the X will stay on solid, along with the ABS and VSC lights, and of course the 4LO light will also be illuminated. This is 4 Lo LOCKED center diff. (EDITED TO ADD: I actually think you can go from 4lo Unlocked CDL to 4lo Locked CDL without stopping, but to be on the safe side, you might want to stop when switching between locked and unlocked.)

Finally, come to a COMPLETE STOP. Put the transmission in Neutral, push the center diff lock button and wait for the diff to unlock, then turn the 4wd dial back to 2hi. The two 4wd graphics will blink again and then go off and the 4LO light will also go off, as well as the VSC and ABS lights.

Once they're off, you should be able to shift the transmission back to D and drive normally.

If you try to shift to 4lo and you get a constant, annoying beeping sound, one of two things has happened: Either you forgot to put the transmission in Neutral and step on the brake, OR the 4wd system has a problem.

If the two 4wd graphic lights blink constantly without ever going solid, there's a problem somewhere. However, if the 4wd system hasn't been used much, it may take a while to engage. It's OK to drive the vehicle at moderate speeds while shifting from 2hi to 4hi, and in fact, sometimes driving the vehicle will help move the moving parts into position. I think the longest it's ever taken mine to engage is maybe 30 seconds (on a really cold day.)

I've honestly never had problems with my CDL, so I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that one.

I won't get into possible problems or fixes, I'll just say that if the 4wd doesn't work, don't buy it unless you get it in the sales contract that the dealer will fix the 4wd system before you buy it. No matter how nice it is, don't buy it if it's not working right because this is an expensive ($3000) problem to fix.
Click to expand...

You're the man! Thanks for the explanation. Ill be using your write up when I go to test out the 4wd in the next day or two.
 
Price seems a bit high for an SR5 with 80,000 miles.

Also, because it's a 2007 model, Toyota will not sell it as "Certified" as it's over years old. The Toyota dealer I purchased my 2007 from last December did include a 1 year warranty though.

I missed out on a 2008 model at another Toyota dealer who was selling it as a "Certified" with a 2 year warranty included.
 
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FoxNJ said:
Hey everyone! I haven't pulled the trigger on a 4Runner yet, but I'm really close. However, before I write the check, I'd like to see what you all think about the price, condition, previous maintenance, ect.

Here's the basic info and what I've learned about the particular 4Runner I'm looking at:
-I found a 2007 V6 4wd SR5 with 80k on it.
-They are asking 17,986 for it and they wouldn't budge below 17,786.
-The exterior is flawless except for a small scuff on the hood that I know I can polish out.
-The interior is a 7/10. The rear head rests are fraying at the seams, deep scuffs on the plastic interior, a mark or two from a sharpie.
-Every feature works like its supposed to.
-I found all 8 years of maintenance records on the Toyota Owners website and its immaculate. Never had a problem, and regular maintenance was always done at a top 10 Toyota dealership.
-On the test drive, it was silent. No squeaks or rattles. Tracked straight and no vibrations from the pedals or steering wheel at 75mph. She gets up and goes too (I was surprised she had some real power from the V6)!

To get into the 4Runner, I'm trading in a 2011 VW GTI with 30k on it. So jumping to 80k on a 7 or 8 year old car scares me a little bit. I know these cars last forever, but 80k is lot of miles to me.

Let me know what you think. Are there specific questions about the 4Runner I should have the answer to before I buy it? What kind of maintenance should I expect over the next 3 years/30k?
Click to expand...

Assuming the 4WD functions properly, you are probably in the ball-park. I bought a 2006 SR5 4WD back in October with 90K miles for $15k. It was immaculate inside and out and had a very clean carfax report with scheduled maintenance.

Don't worry about the mileage, a 4R is just breaking-in at 100K miles.
 
I just bought my 2008 SR5 4WD with about 69k miles for $18k. I couldn't find anything within 150 miles with less than 90k on it besides this one. They were actually asking $21000 for it too, but I spent half my day haggling with them and was able to get it down a bit.
 
jr19 said:
I just bought my 2008 SR5 4WD with about 69k miles for $18k. I couldn't find anything within 150 miles with less than 90k on it besides this one. They were actually asking $21000 for it too, but I spent half my day haggling with them and was able to get it down a bit.
Click to expand...

This sounds like a steal to me.

I'm sure they paid about 14 for this one as a trade in, so there's margin to be worked with. The other part of the equation (my trade) they claim not to be making money on. I told them to call a VW dealership and see if they'd take it off their hands before they committed to mine. They came back with "two dealerships said they'd take it from us for 16k, so that's what we'll give you." So considering I'm getting what I want for the trade, I don't feel that a couple hundred extra on the 4runner is that outrageous.

Maybe Ill see if they'll throw in a 1 year warranty for the 17.7 they came down to? If the salesman is going to say things like "you have nothing to worry about replacing in the next couple of years" then he should stand by his word and guarantee that...
 
80k miles is nothing on these Suvs. I just traded my 2012 Honda Accord for a 2005 SR5 with 155k miles on it. Things to look out for regarding my experience:

* Check that the spare's good and no warning lights stay on at dash. My TPMS light was on and I had to replace two sensors to get it to go out, one in the spare
* Check that all the jack parts are there and if it has a trailer hitch, see if black metal connector's included
* When were spark plugs changed? I got no maintenance records with mine and the plugs were completely shot

Big change from gas mileage over what your VW got...be prepared to deal with that.

Might not be bad idea to put in a bottle of fuel injection cleaner on a full tank of gas and also change to synthetic oil.

Good luck.
 
I just bought my 2007 Special Edition 4WD with 95k miles for $14.5, cloth seats, sun roof, 115AC plug, dbl decker in the cargo area and clean inside and out

+1 on checking for rust

If its at a dealer keep haggling....walk out if you have too I could have got them down lower I think but I was haggling my trade in Tacoma price. I got them to come down from $16.5 to $14.5 and come up on my trade in from $3k to $4k.
 
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First, I want to say thank you for all the great feedback and advice. While I don't own a 4Runner yet, Im excited that there is a great community standing behind these vehicles.

Unfortunately, the dealer took the 4Runner Ive been looking at off the internet so Im assuming its been sold already. Its not the end of the world, in fact, I think it was for the better. I found this morning a 2007 Sport with 85k on it. Looks like the last owner put on BFG Rugged Terrains, so that's a plus. It also has flawless maintenance records and no history of significant problems. AND... its a grand cheaper than the SR5. It almost seems too good to be true.

Is there anything I should know about the Sport? I know it has the XREAS suspension, but are there any problems that are specific to the Sport? Thanks again!
 
As others have said, keep haggling with them. Last November, I bought my 06 SR5 V8 with 85k for $16,500. They weren't budging on the price from $17,200 so I said "I guess the sale isn't happening today" and then the used car manager came over and that's when the deal was made.
 
For reference, I bought my 2005 Last year and here is the stats:
2005 SR5 4x4
Silver/ Sun roof/ running boards/ 17" Wheels.
64,000 mi
Paid $14,500.00
 
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