Downside of P-metric tires

I think you are supposed to hit the sharp rocks on the tread blocks and not in-between.

I did not want to go to an E rated tire due to the harshness and stiffer ride, but this looks like a reason to reconsider. Were you aired down or running street pressure?

My Nitto Terra Grapplers have been great in the E-Load I have. Everyone compliments how smooth the ride on my lifted 4th gen is compared to their expectations.

The key is to do a good chalk test, look at the load charts and determine what the correct "Road" pressure is for your set-up. Many people fail to do this and over-inflate the tires to a "Towing Load" (i.e. pressures in the 50~80psi range that would be used on say a Chevy 2500 towing a heavy trailer) vs. the correct pressure for the vehicle.

It's an important but often ignored/forgotten aspect of changing to different tires that MANY owners and shops forget; but it is a critical part of good tire wear and ride quality.
 
At, say, even 25psi I suspect this thread would not exist.

Hard to say. You may be right. I've ruined lots of tires over the years at different pressures, but I agree that generally moderate pressure is a pretty safe bet.
 
I've generally had good luck with p tires. But I also almost always buy Michelin or Goodyear tires.

I was at street pressure. Just out for a quick run.
impact puncture. have you already swapped out the tire?

id like to see a pic of the internal damage. they are usually MUCH worse on the inside.
 
impact puncture. have you already swapped out the tire?

id like to see a pic of the internal damage. they are usually MUCH worse on the inside.

Nope. It's still in the back of my 4runner. It's snow tires season and the tire shop across the street from my work said that they wouldn't fix it for a couple days. So I'll find another shop tomorrow to fix it. Hopefully it's fixable.
 
Nope. It's still in the back of my 4runner. It's snow tires season and the tire shop across the street from my work said that they wouldn't fix it for a couple days. So I'll find another shop tomorrow to fix it. Hopefully it's fixable.
if its what I think it is, and what it looks like, it wont be fixable. it will have broken cords.

when you get it checked, can you get some pics of the interior damage?
 
Ill ask if they'll take a pic or two. I'll probably have to leave it at a shop for the day and pick up after work, so I won't be there when they do it. Of course if it's not fixable I'll get some pics before I throw it away or send back to Toyo.
 
I got a call from the tire shop. They said it looked like a minor cut on the inside and no cord damage. Didn't send a picture. Looks like it may have been just a really sharp rock at just the right spot? I'll keep this updated if/when I spend some more time in the rocks to see how these hold up long term. It'll be pretty frustrating if I have to buy a 2nd set of off-road tires because then I'd rather have a highway tread for my daily tires.
 
I've been riding on Bridgestone Revo II AT's (265's)for the last 6 years...have yet to have a puncture, air down to 15 psi, rarely stuck...smooth as hell on road...46 lbs a/p for 285/70/17 LT. I only run them to about 40K or so....not one compliant

KO2 275/70/17 LT are 55.lb a/p...needless to say I hope these tires fair as well
 
As stated already - I agree that air pressure and rating of the tire are pretty important regarding sharp punctures - air pressure probably more so. That said, I think pure luck certainly has something to do with it as some folks get by without ever puncturing a P-rated tire off road, then their buddy shreds 2 e-rated tires on a single trip...

Here is a great video that has been passed around a bit regarding puncture resistance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kz8mmLkeks (Caveat - looks like they place the spike on the tread lug and not between them)
 
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Try not to laugh to hard at my observations. I grew up in Ohio, lived in Virginia and Texas for 10 years each and now live in Arizona. My observation is that the northern and eastern states have more rounded rocks from being rolled in the retreating glaciers years ago. Not to say that there are not any sharp rocks. Texas I am not sure about as I did not really off road there. For such a big open state it is all private land without much off roading to the general public. In the western mountain states especially where I off road in the desert some of the rocks are sharp as heck and will cut like a knife. I really notice this when riding my atv. There will be sharp rocks sticking up from a trail that just look nasty that you would not even see in a big vehicle. If a person is just going off road a few miles from civilization and only once or twice a year then a p tire may be fine but if you are going to run all day on BLM land out west far from cell phone service alone I would recommend a tougher tire.
 
There's also something to be said for weight and ground pressure. Most 35+ inch tires are only a c rating. But they have less pressure at any given spot. Similarly a P rated tire may be more durable on a 3rd gen than a 5th gen because the 5th gen is a tank in comparison. It's 1,000lbs heavier. Each tire now supports 20-25% more weight.

However, on the flip side - a Toyo 285-70-17 has a 117 load rating that is about half way between that of a BFG KO2 in a 265 size with a "C" rating and one with an "E" rating. Does that translate to a tire that's between a BFG "C" and "E" rating? It's closest in load range to a "d" rated LT tire - often called an 8 ply although no tires for light trucks have 8 actual plies in them. I'm really not sure without knowing what is actually in the casing.
 
1st wheeling trip I aired down my Mich LTX MS2's from 35 to about 28. I did fine. I just put a set of terra grapplers on and i aired down to 25, i did fine again as well. I think it is luck of the draw with holes in tires.
 
I have spent a bit of time south of there, about halfway to eureka/tintic. I can attest there are some sharp, hard ass rocks out there, it is or is very much like quartzite. Even aired down, gees the fat pig still feels like it could just suck sharps through threads. I have C rated bfg at/ko's LT in stock, mostly because I really like them in snow (streets and canyons roads, not snow wheeling), I am saving up for a more durable application specific set for this stuff.
 

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