Drain and fill interval question for those familiar with the factory rec

Bob22222

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So it's approaching 190k with no service history on a 04 Sport V8. Shifts find runs great. I'm going to do several drain fills. Do I do them all at the same time or space them out according to Toyota and what would you do on you own vehicle?
 
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Thanks Brian, all the other fluids are fresh. My question is:
When doing the drain and fills will a dealership following factory procedure do like 4 drain and fills in a row or have the customer come back in 500, 3000, or whatever amount of miles between each drain and fill?
It seems most here like to put on some mileage between drain and fills. Someone here (maybe BlackworksInc?) recently implied that flushing through the coolant lines and the factory recommended procedure of drain and fills both use about 12 quarts. This seems to sugest that the factory method would be to do four flushes one after another.
And no I don't want to separate the cooling lines and use that approach. I'm sure it works just fine probably better than Toyota's meathod but I'll skip it.
 
This is, and probably always will be, a point of disagreement among people here. Some are more comfortable doing it themselves than others which makes a difference. Personally I have chosen drain & fill along with my oil changes.

Yes, it mixes old & new but to me that's not a big deal. I'm happy with every facet of my truck and have never had any tranny issues. I view it as a safe approach. Doing the drain & fill repeatedly/consecutively still leaves some old stuff every cycle so I choose 5k miles between each drain & fill.

Whatever you do some will agree, some disagree as it is with so many things. Having lost a tranny (wife's Honda) after a flush I'll stay far away from that.
 
Again. I'm looking for the TOYOTA FACTORY RECOMMENDED intervals between drain and fills.
This and only this please. I appreciate well meaning advice but let's not go there with this thread. There are plenty of threads on the the pluses and minuses of drain and fills versus flushes.
 
Sorry for my opinion post Bob. If you want to know what Toyota recommends a quick phone call to them should give you the info.
 
Again. I'm looking for the TOYOTA FACTORY RECOMMENDED intervals between drain and fills.
This and only this please. I appreciate well meaning advice but let's not go there with this thread. There are plenty of threads on the the pluses and minuses of drain and fills versus flushes.

Here is the Schedule Maintenance Guide that came with my 04' Sport.
 

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Well, if you wanting to do factory intervals, I'd say your about 130k overdue to start.

Common sense, if you take it to a dealer to do in this method, they would start the ride up in between intervals at one visit.

Edit.... After reading for 04, I say 160k overdue to start.
 
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Start the vehicle. So, the new fluid can flow through the transmission.

When I did my fluid exchange( cooling lines ), it was draining about 1 quart per 7 seconds+.
 
Ok you mean start the engine between intervals. Yes common sense. Thus do it all in one day or service visit despite the high mileage? That's the real question. My only experience with a high mileage transmission was on a Eurovan Westy that had about 170k, shifted funky and had filthy fluid. I did three flush and fills about 500 miles apart. The shifting cleaned up and the transmission is reported still going strong 30k later.
That's where I'm leaning. Just want a experienced, good tech's input.
 
OK, I'M NOT A TECH MECHANIC. I was also going on a drain and fill procedure of a sealed transmission. With you having the dip stick model, your capable of doing a complete drain as you have a the dip stick tube to be able to refill with.

Most of the nightmares with the posted trans problems have been sealed trans.

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] might want to give his recommendations for the 340 model, and mileage.

Edit.. you having the v8 on that year, not sure which trans you have, my mistake possibly. My prior 04 had the dip stick version, v6.
 
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'04 V8 is a sealed transmission with WS, the "horror" stories are mainly from improper fluid level after they've been flushed. That is quite a lot of miles with no known service, have you tried running the VIN in the Toyota Owner's website to see past records?
 
'04 V8 is a sealed transmission with WS, the "horror" stories are mainly from improper fluid level after they've been flushed. That is quite a lot of miles with no known service, have you tried running the VIN in the Toyota Owner's website to see past records?

Toyota records show only timing belt and brakes done at the re-selling Toyota dealership at 130k. First owners had regular service at the delership. Second owner 90k to 130k no service records. Third owner did not have any paper work was recently divorced and thought it might have been done at a local independent shop.
The vehicle was and still is imaculate and drives like new.
One local dealership said they scanned it for a history of over- heating (I don't know how long the computer can hold this data) and viscosity. They said not to touch it adding that their parts delivery Tundra, an 04 with the same drivetrain, had 400k on it and never had the transmission flushed. The other dealship seemed like they wanted 400 dollars of money too badly and said it should be done immediately. I told them I'd service it myself. I do all my own service. I there for tires (yes sometimes you can get a raging deal from the dealer on tires) with one and the other dealer experience was for the open recall on the brake peddle chop and engine cut-off which I choose not too have done once I knew what it was.
I'm pretty certain that this runner was a highway commute vehicle most all its life and never towed. However the last 30k has been much mainly maintain conditions and I do some ""light" (2,300 lbs) towing. But the towing is also in the mountains. Still, I believe I drive correctly and have never come close to over-heating.
...so, I've ordered a case of WS off bay with the idea of doing 3 drain and fills more or less in a row. Here's where the catch comes in for me. I was debating 500 miles (yes 500 not 5k) intervals between drain and fills but decided against. Now, when the fluid arrives it's only four quarts (they made an"error" and are shipping the rest) or enough for one drain and fill, right? I somewhat believe in "signs" and took this as an opertunity for a reality check on the drain and fill intervals.
I know doing it all a one setting would be way less hassle but at the same time do not want to risk shocking the system by cleaning too much varnish or whatever off the transmission's workings with too much fresh fluid at once. I would like to get fresh fluid with fresh friction modifiers in there.
I guess I'll know a lot more once I see, smell, and taste the old fluid. Do those labs that do oil testing do ATF? Though, the flashlite test should tell me what I really want to know.
I do thank you for your input and I know it's a toss up or gamble either way: flush, drain and fill, multiple drain and fills, or do nothing.
 
Granted I don't have the miles like yours, and have done 3 drain n fills between 60-105k.
I decided to get a pan gasket to open it up to see the inside which helped me decide if I was going to do consecutive drain n fill or fluid exchange(cooler line) like I did.

Fluid was dark, but see through. No signs of particles, and inside clean on inside, with very thin film on bottom of pan.
 
Granted I don't have the miles like yours, and have done 3 drain n fills between 60-105k.
I decided to get a pan gasket to open it up to see the inside which helped me decide if I was going to do consecutive drain n fill or fluid exchange(cooler line) like I did.

Fluid was dark, but see through. No signs of particles, and inside clean on inside, with very thin film on bottom of pan.

Thanks Leonard, in my senitility I probably dreamed up the thing about Toyota recommending drain and fills since nobody seems to confirm. So I'll start what with you and a few others recommend. That being the spaced out drain and fill approach. By the way, any crap in the bottom of the drain pan scares the crap out of me and I'll figure it's too late and start stashing SS money for a factory rebuilt unit at that point. The vehicle is worthy of the expenses (and I'm guessing $4500 to $6000). But I've a feeling everything will be fine. By the way which meathod did you use to verify temperature? I wonder if anyone has ever just stuck a lab thermometer into the fill or check hole to double confirm the temp of the "slowly trickling fluid"?
And thanks to others who offered advice. I think my question been covered.
 
Thanks Leonard, in my senitility I probably dreamed up the thing about Toyota recommending drain and fills since nobody seems to confirm. So I'll start what with you and a few others recommend. That being the spaced out drain and fill approach. By the way, any crap in the bottom of the drain pan scares the crap out of me and I'll figure it's too late and start stashing SS money for a factory rebuilt unit at that point. The vehicle is worthy of the expenses (and I'm guessing $4500 to $6000). But I've a feeling everything will be fine. By the way which meathod did you use to verify temperature? I wonder if anyone has ever just stuck a lab thermometer into the fill or check hole to double confirm the temp of the "slowly trickling fluid"?
And thanks to others who offered advice. I think my question been covered.

I do understand. Reading all the threads on the controversy on both methods after xxx amount of miles, tends to make us beware and wonder.

Since your draining to do a drain n fill, I would pull the pan(get a gasket) and take a look in side to give you an idea of possibilities. My slight film was so little, I could see the color of the pan through it. 120k.

Hope this link works. Edit....Google this, It should help.
How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission - Tacoma World Forums
 
And I tend to tow with mine at times, with a whole lot more weight. Mine shifted just fine before, and now, no heavy foot, can't tell it's shifting.

Honestly, I used to work with hydraulics, and the best thing you can do for a system is replace the fluid, due to thermal break down of it's integrity.
 
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Leonard I've been reading the rather lengthy thread on the Tacoma world forum. Thanks again, there's good info there. Near what is currently close to the end of post ( p34) there a link to the latest Toyota factory meathod of checking through the dash light.
Here is that post on that thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/page-34

Its comforting for me to see it in a factory publication. Also clears up some fine points on the process.
It's also comforting to after all those post no one seems to have had a problem with a properly performed drain and fill. It also seems no one has had an issue with a properly done "push it out thru the cooling line" way.
I'll do a drain and fill. And go from ther while trying to confirm if it's truly never been done by the condition of the three plugs.
 
Good to know Bob. I did a " put in check mode" before I actually did any draining, just to make sure I was doing it right and understanding the procedures.

Trans will warm up quick also, going over check temp in warmer ambient temps.

I also noticed, when I put it in " check mode" I was able to remove the wire and plug my scan gauge in and monitor temp on scan gauge to the light signal on the dash at the same time. It was accurate on temp.
 

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