drive line broke off. now my diff leaks

[patches541]

so i drew arrows where i think its leaking sorry for the crappy cell phone pics. im not a mechanich but how hard is it to replace the seal that i think broke. do i have to remove the third member? the seal that im talking about would be right there were the arrows are right behind the drive line. thanks if u guys dont understand me then il have to talk to my bud who is a mechanic so i can get the right terminology.

 

[Justinlhc]

Remove the 4 bolts/nuts off that connect the driveline, then you will see a large nut, I believe it was a ~23mm but I could be wrong, take that nut off and you can get to that seal. Very common to have a leak there. I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. Took me about 5 minutes and I think it was about $12 at AutoZone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...+Rear&store=5303&searchText=&brandName=Timken

 

[patches541]

never mind. yes u can. remove drive line-4bolts, remove fat brass nut-1 nut, pop off the u bolt housing- 1 hammer hit. and walla! youve reached the leaky mother fvcker. aka seal. pop it off, clean as much as possible and replace with new one. 7.99 at kragen. about 15min job


and its a 32mm nut.

 

[Justinlhc]

never mind. yes u can. remove drive line-4bolts, remove fat brass nut-1 nut, pop off the u bolt housing- 1 hammer hit. and walla! youve reached the leaky mother fvcker. aka seal. pop it off, clean as much as possible and replace with new one. 7.99 at kragen. about 15min job


and its a 32mm nut.

Nice. At least I had the numbers right, just backwards. :bigok: I remembered it was big anyways lol. Be prepared for the outter axle seals to start leaking, if they aren't already. Mine started leaking on me shortly after the pinion seal. Slowly but surely I'll have replaced every damn part on my truck, ready to go another 232k miles. :guitar2:

 

[patches541]

but thanks anyways justin. yea im relievd that was the fix. btw u know that brass 32mm nut. it dosent have to be super tight right. just as long as u hammer it back in its groove.

 

[Justinlhc]

but thanks anyways justin. yea im relievd that was the fix. btw u know that brass 32mm nut. it dosent have to be super tight right. just as long as u hammer it back in its groove.

I think it does actually. I put mine back on EXACTLY how it was. I don't remember it being brass though?

 

[fourwd1]

... it dosent have to be super tight right. just as long as u hammer it back in its groove.

Umm, wrong.

That nut has to be tightened to the exact same torque value as it was originally. A specific torque value sets the preload on the pinion gear, a rather critical measurement if you don't want to trash your R&P.

At the vary least you would want to torque it to the upper end of the value specified in the FSM.