Drive Shaft Sounds Like Death *Videos*

TFJ-4runner

New member
First let me say that I have almost zero drive shaft experience so far. I know the tell tell sign the U-joint is bad when you apply throttle and get a thud when you let off. I dont seem to be getting that, but I do believe I have an issue where braking to a stop the rear end settles with a slight thud. It stopped after the lift went on. Apparently it's common but I doubt its something to not worry about.

I'm reading that my zerks may need more grease. I was able to get the majority but the hose broke before my buddy had to leave. So I don't think the slip yoke has any grease. If that's not it then the U-joints must be the problem? Everything seems tight when rotating it. Up and down It hardly moves as well.

I have put roughly 8,000 miles on this since I bought it and no clue about this particular upkeep with the previous owners. I've been trying to figure this noise out for about a month now and it is now worse to where I can. So here's two videos the first has acceleration and the other is idle speed. I want to get it fixed before Saturday when the 35's go on. Let me know what you think ,thanks guys...

2000 4runner 4x4 W/ E-Locker 8 wraps in the rear and 2" BL approximately 160K miles

These are the links I found in reference to this issue.
4Runner Possible Slip Yoke Binding. - YotaTech Forums

4-Runner thump on stopping - YotaTech Forums

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/NejCUn8N5zk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/x7yom3ahXuE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>​
 
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So far possibles I know of are:
Slip Yoke
Bearings
U-Joints
steady bearing splitting
Slip yoke zerk needs A LOT of grease

They wont be going on until I have it fixed.
 
With all wheels on the ground (transfer case in gear, trany in gear, P-brake on). Grab the driveshaft (DS, Rear locker on), and try to move it up and down, also left and right. Try this at all the U-joints. Do you see any play or hear any noise?
Now try to rotate, by hand, the DS. Again, any play or noise?
Now put the transfer case in "N". Try the above again?
Turn it off the rear locker and try this again.
Jack up the rig (use jackstands before you get under it). Pull the rear driveshaft off the rear diff and by hand rotate the rear tires back and forth. Try this with the rear locker on too.
Grab the DS by hand and rotate back and forth to see if the noise is coming from the transfer case (Transfer case back in gear, DS off the rear diff).
If you have noise, remove the DS from the Transfer case and rotate the output of the case by hand, rack B&F.
With the DS out, slowly by hand flex and spin the U-joints. They should be smooth an quiet.

I just noticed that it is a limited, so it has a center diff lock?
Try everything above with the center diff locked and un-locked.

You need to isolate where the noise is coming from.
 
Last edited:
Gerdo, thank you so much for the in detail instructions. I took it up to the shop and we out it on the lift again checking everything. Ran it it 50 mph with the cruise control on. The noise was echoed making it sound like it was also coming from the axle and transfer case. We pulled the shaft and all the joints are smooth and tight. So after reading in the YT thread I posted on here about the slip yoke and it needed enough grease to see it pulse three times we tried that. It took a lot of grease on the first round. We then mounted the shaft and it improved. It accepted more grease and got even better. A third drive and it completely went away with another grease. So I hope this helps another person. If the zerks are neglected this can happen. It only cost me $20 so probably the first thing I would do when buying one of these used.
 

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