Driveline Rattle

[dkerr]

Hello,

For the past several months or so I have had a repetitive squeaking that I suspect is coming from the driveline. It only squeaks when I'm on the throttle and at around 1000-1500 rpms at low speeds. It's hard to tell if it persists with higher speeds with wind and engine noise being so loud.

Well it has not progressed to a more concerning and irregular growl if a exceed ~1500 at around 25-30 mph. I was wondering if anyone else has dealt with this and has any tips. Thanks!

-dk

 

[spartacus]

Hello,

For the past several months or so I have had a repetitive squeaking that I suspect is coming from the driveline. It only squeaks when I'm on the throttle and at around 1000-1500 rpms at low speeds. It's hard to tell if it persists with higher speeds with wind and engine noise being so loud.

Well it has not progressed to a more concerning and irregular growl if a exceed ~1500 at around 25-30 mph. I was wondering if anyone else has dealt with this and has any tips. Thanks!

-dk

Grease the u joints and see if it helps.

 

[fourfive]

Since it happens when its under load it's most likely your rear u-joint but could be the double cardan joint too. I had similar issues a few months ago. From my experience, it can be hard to detect any play in the rear driveshaft by hand when it's bolted in place especially if it's just starting to go bad. Even when I checked with it uninstalled it was very subtle. It sometimes felt like a catch when moving the joint around by hand but as it started to wear out more the play was more pronounced & felt clunky. While I had my rear driveshaft off, I went for a drive in AWD (multimode tcase) & symptoms were no longer present which helped confirm what I was suspecting.

For anyone that has a multimode tcase with AWD, I wouldn't recommend driving without the rear driveshaft for very long & only short distances for testing. Handling felt really squirrely, would occasionally feel binding on sharp turns & AWD mode would not always immediately engage on initial start up.

I bought a used rear driveshaft from [MENTION=78895]DeathCougar[/MENTION] & it resolved the issues. I also ordered new rear u-joint parts from Toyota to fix my original driveshaft.

 

[trackboss54]

Go with a Tom Woods Driveshaft

Worth the money and fixes this problem. After a few years lifted this happens to 3rd gens

 

[Bad Luck]

Since it happens when its under load it's most likely your rear u-joint but could be the double cardan joint too. I had similar issues a few months ago. From my experience, it can be hard to detect any play in the rear driveshaft by hand when it's bolted in place especially if it's just starting to go bad. Even when I checked with it uninstalled it was very subtle. It sometimes felt like a catch when moving the joint around by hand but as it started to wear out more the play was more pronounced & felt clunky. While I had my rear driveshaft off, I went for a drive in AWD (multimode tcase) & symptoms were no longer present which helped confirm what I was suspecting.

For anyone that has a multimode tcase with AWD, I wouldn't recommend driving without the rear driveshaft for very long & only short distances for testing. Handling felt really squirrely, would occasionally feel binding on sharp turns & AWD mode would not always immediately engage on initial start up.

I bought a used rear driveshaft from [MENTION=78895]DeathCougar[/MENTION] & it resolved the issues. I also ordered new rear u-joint parts from Toyota to fix my original driveshaft.

You have to drive in 4hi locked if you have the multimode case and your rear driveshaft removed

 

[fourfive]

You have to drive in 4hi locked if you have the multimode case and your rear driveshaft removed

Ah didn't know that. What's the reasoning for having it locked? My thought was 4hi locked would cause more binding but didn't have anything to base that on.

 

[Bad Luck]

Ah didn't know that. What's the reasoning for having it locked? My thought was 4hi locked would cause more binding but didn't have anything to base that on.

In 4HI (AWD) the transfer case acts like a differential and allows the front and rear driveshafts to spin at different speeds within a certain percentage (I can't remember what the split is) and adjusts front/rear torque split. In 4HI Locked the transfer case forces the front and rear driveshafts to spin at the same speed. So when you have the rear driveshaft off in 4HI (AWD) it tries to control the amount the amount of torque that is going to the rear driveshaft that isn't there and it doesn't like that at all, but since the front and rear driveshaft are locked together in 4HI Locked it doesn't care that there isn't a rear driveshaft.