Drivers side power door won't lock/unlock
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Driver's Side Door Locks
Did any one ever find a solution to this problem? My 2001 is having the same problem - the other doors lock/unlock and alarm with the keyless entry or with the door switch, but the driver's side will only lock/unlock if lowered/raised manually. It looks like some similar problems were solved by replacing a fuse. Is this a similar situation, or does the door panel have to be removed?
Did any one ever find a solution to this problem? My 2001 is having the same problem - the other doors lock/unlock and alarm with the keyless entry or with the door switch, but the driver's side will only lock/unlock if lowered/raised manually. It looks like some similar problems were solved by replacing a fuse. Is this a similar situation, or does the door panel have to be removed?
Mauzer
New member
I have the same problem, I bought a new door lock actuator but its gonna be a PITA to install so I'll probably procrastinate on doing it for a while.
mom
Banned
Since I noticed the door panel was loose, I asked the previous owner who said early in the life of the 1997 4Runner, he had to have replaced, under warranty, the driver's side lock mechanism.
He said he asked for all parts back, and what he saw was a YELLOW plastic tip to the actuating mechanism had broken in half.
If that's the common problem here, then simply removing the door panel should reveal this yellow broken plastic.
It would be nice if the next person who does this would post a picture for the rest of us to benefit from.
2003 with the same driver lock problem!
My 2003 has this problem. The driver side door doesn't unlock some (most) times when using the remote or the electronic button inside the car. Can't even get it to unlock with the key from outside. All other three doors unlock fine. Sometimes it makes a funny noise when I try with the remote - click-click-click kinda thing.
Thinking it might end up stop opening at all soon!
Wnere can I get info about removing the door panel?
Thanks,
Mark
My 2003 has this problem. The driver side door doesn't unlock some (most) times when using the remote or the electronic button inside the car. Can't even get it to unlock with the key from outside. All other three doors unlock fine. Sometimes it makes a funny noise when I try with the remote - click-click-click kinda thing.
Thinking it might end up stop opening at all soon!
Wnere can I get info about removing the door panel?
Thanks,
Mark
Nelsonmd
New member
You should ask in the 4th gen section. I am not sure how different the 4th gen doors are from the 3rd gen's, but you will have better luck there.
It shouldn't be too hard anyway, a few screws, then a good stiff pull and a lift usually does it on most cars.
darinc38122
New member
I was told by a Toyota mechanic that the solenoid acts up when it gets hot. My 99 does it when it sits in the sun too long, but is fine now that the weather is cooler.
Dessert Eagle
New member
Had the same issue, now fixed (dummies guide)
Hi guys, this is my first post, but I just wanted to give my experience with the same issue on my 2001 4Runner. Your advice on this thread helped a lot, but my problem was my actuator, not just a broken plastic clip. My actuator didn't actually have a yellow plastic clip. I'll attach a picture of the old and new actuator to show you.
I ordered the part (driver's front actuator) at my local AutoZone for ~$100. That was about the same at every place I called and close to the same as online. Plus I wanted to be able to easily return it if I didn't need it or if the actuator wasn't the problem, as it could have easily turned out.
Getting behind the door panel:
1. Remove screw for the handle. Slide the whole handle plastic piece forward until it is loose. It is attached to the metal rod that goes to the latch by a yellow plastic clip. Remove one end of that clip with screwdriver, needlenose, fingers, whatever. Slide the rod down and out of the clip and the handle will be free. This link is helpful:
How to remove the front door panel? - YotaTech Forums
2. Pull straight up on the armrest or use screwdriver to pry. It pops right off. Under that are two screws that you remove.
3. (I should have mentioned, this is for automatic locks and windows) Next use a screwdriver to pop the window/lock control panel straight up. Then slide it forward to get it loose. The wires are attached in 3 spots which are easy to remove with screwdriver.
4. There are 2 of those "plastic rivets" that you push in the center piece and pull out. They just look like a circle of embedded plastic. One is in the upper right corner of the door panel and one is on the left edge above the latch. Remove both.
5. Gently pry at the bottom of the panel with a screwdriver until the christmas tree plastic pieces pop out. You can feel each one pop and I think there are like 7. If you go slow, you can do it without breaking any.
6. Lift the door panel straight up. Up and over the lock knob and it will be free.
7. The weather plastic is usually sealed pretty well with a really sticky caulk. I pulled it slowly and used an exacto knife to cut the caulk. I only opened up the left half, because that's all you need to get to. At the end it was sticky enough to just smoosh back on.
Getting the actuator out
This was the hard part. I'll try to remember all the steps. It is mostly a pain because, as you can see from the picture of the door, the openings are way too small, so you have little visibility or room to work. Just yell out a curse word every now and then and you will feel better.
(most of these steps are in no particular order.. you really just take things off until the actuator comes out.)
1. Take out the 3 bolts that hold in the door latch.
2. When you look at the door from inside, right where the actuator is, there are two bolts (you can see them in my picture). Take out the 1 bolt on the left. That is what actually holds the actuator in place.
3. Remove the plug that attaches the wires to the actuator. You just have to squeeze hard on the sides to get it free. You can do this either before or after the actuator comes out. It's actually easier after.
4. Underneath the latch, there is one bolt that holds the bottom of the window track. You will need to remove that. Don't worry, the window is still secure, it just needs to be all the way up throughout all this.
5. Remove outside handle/lock. I'm going to call this step optional because I know people can get to the actuator without doing this, but I found it really difficult to detach the two metal rods (one to lock, one to handle) without removing the whole assembly. If you are going to remove it, there are 2 bolts on the inside to remove, one on each side. The left one is much easier to remove if you use the hole in the door to access it. Once it is loose, you may have to remove the small metal clip that holds the lock in. Then detach the 2 plastic clips (mine were pink and yellow) that hold the rods to the outside door handle.
6. The last rod that can be removed is the one going up to the manual lock knob. You could probably get to the plastic piece and detach the rod like the others, but I found it difficult to access the clip. Instead, I unscrewed the lock knob and pulled the rod through the plastic sleeve as I removed the actuator.
7. The actuator should now be completely free. Put your hand around it and slowly pull it out and you get everything else out of the way. You'll have to make sure the 4 rods aren't getting snagged on anything and also bend the window track out of the way. Don't worry, the window track is fine once you bolt it back in. Bend it as much as you need to.
Replacing the actuator
The actuator should now be completely free. If I were you, I'd plug the lock/window control panel back in and plug your old actuator back into the wires (while it's all dangling free). That way you can press the lock/unlock buttons and if the actuator tip is not moving, you know conclusively that is the problem.
If it's totally shot, like mine was, replace the old with the new and do everything in the reverse order to reassemble. That was not as easy for me as it sounds, of course. For me, I had to do the disassemble/reassemble 3 times because the metal rods are finicky. If they got bent a little in the process your lock knob or inside handle could end up being a little sticky and you need to open it back up and bend the rod back how it was.
Anyway, wanted to give my story as someone with no mechanic experience to hopefully help others. Ended up taking maybe 6-8 hours, but I was learning everything as I went. In the end, it worked and saved us a lot of money.
Next up is to buy a remote keyless entry from eBay (our car didn't come with one) and program it to save the $250 the stealership wants for a single one (including the 20 second programming).
Hi guys, this is my first post, but I just wanted to give my experience with the same issue on my 2001 4Runner. Your advice on this thread helped a lot, but my problem was my actuator, not just a broken plastic clip. My actuator didn't actually have a yellow plastic clip. I'll attach a picture of the old and new actuator to show you.
I ordered the part (driver's front actuator) at my local AutoZone for ~$100. That was about the same at every place I called and close to the same as online. Plus I wanted to be able to easily return it if I didn't need it or if the actuator wasn't the problem, as it could have easily turned out.
Getting behind the door panel:
1. Remove screw for the handle. Slide the whole handle plastic piece forward until it is loose. It is attached to the metal rod that goes to the latch by a yellow plastic clip. Remove one end of that clip with screwdriver, needlenose, fingers, whatever. Slide the rod down and out of the clip and the handle will be free. This link is helpful:
How to remove the front door panel? - YotaTech Forums
2. Pull straight up on the armrest or use screwdriver to pry. It pops right off. Under that are two screws that you remove.
3. (I should have mentioned, this is for automatic locks and windows) Next use a screwdriver to pop the window/lock control panel straight up. Then slide it forward to get it loose. The wires are attached in 3 spots which are easy to remove with screwdriver.
4. There are 2 of those "plastic rivets" that you push in the center piece and pull out. They just look like a circle of embedded plastic. One is in the upper right corner of the door panel and one is on the left edge above the latch. Remove both.
5. Gently pry at the bottom of the panel with a screwdriver until the christmas tree plastic pieces pop out. You can feel each one pop and I think there are like 7. If you go slow, you can do it without breaking any.
6. Lift the door panel straight up. Up and over the lock knob and it will be free.
7. The weather plastic is usually sealed pretty well with a really sticky caulk. I pulled it slowly and used an exacto knife to cut the caulk. I only opened up the left half, because that's all you need to get to. At the end it was sticky enough to just smoosh back on.
Getting the actuator out
This was the hard part. I'll try to remember all the steps. It is mostly a pain because, as you can see from the picture of the door, the openings are way too small, so you have little visibility or room to work. Just yell out a curse word every now and then and you will feel better.
(most of these steps are in no particular order.. you really just take things off until the actuator comes out.)1. Take out the 3 bolts that hold in the door latch.
2. When you look at the door from inside, right where the actuator is, there are two bolts (you can see them in my picture). Take out the 1 bolt on the left. That is what actually holds the actuator in place.
3. Remove the plug that attaches the wires to the actuator. You just have to squeeze hard on the sides to get it free. You can do this either before or after the actuator comes out. It's actually easier after.
4. Underneath the latch, there is one bolt that holds the bottom of the window track. You will need to remove that. Don't worry, the window is still secure, it just needs to be all the way up throughout all this.
5. Remove outside handle/lock. I'm going to call this step optional because I know people can get to the actuator without doing this, but I found it really difficult to detach the two metal rods (one to lock, one to handle) without removing the whole assembly. If you are going to remove it, there are 2 bolts on the inside to remove, one on each side. The left one is much easier to remove if you use the hole in the door to access it. Once it is loose, you may have to remove the small metal clip that holds the lock in. Then detach the 2 plastic clips (mine were pink and yellow) that hold the rods to the outside door handle.
6. The last rod that can be removed is the one going up to the manual lock knob. You could probably get to the plastic piece and detach the rod like the others, but I found it difficult to access the clip. Instead, I unscrewed the lock knob and pulled the rod through the plastic sleeve as I removed the actuator.
7. The actuator should now be completely free. Put your hand around it and slowly pull it out and you get everything else out of the way. You'll have to make sure the 4 rods aren't getting snagged on anything and also bend the window track out of the way. Don't worry, the window track is fine once you bolt it back in. Bend it as much as you need to.
Replacing the actuator
The actuator should now be completely free. If I were you, I'd plug the lock/window control panel back in and plug your old actuator back into the wires (while it's all dangling free). That way you can press the lock/unlock buttons and if the actuator tip is not moving, you know conclusively that is the problem.
If it's totally shot, like mine was, replace the old with the new and do everything in the reverse order to reassemble. That was not as easy for me as it sounds, of course.
For me, I had to do the disassemble/reassemble 3 times because the metal rods are finicky. If they got bent a little in the process your lock knob or inside handle could end up being a little sticky and you need to open it back up and bend the rod back how it was.Anyway, wanted to give my story as someone with no mechanic experience to hopefully help others. Ended up taking maybe 6-8 hours, but I was learning everything as I went. In the end, it worked and saved us a lot of money.
Next up is to buy a remote keyless entry from eBay (our car didn't come with one) and program it to save the $250 the stealership wants for a single one (including the 20 second programming).
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starrscream
New member
door/locking issues
I drive a 99 4runner
I can lock my doors with the power off and it works no problem. When I put the truck into drive the doors lock but instantly unlock. The problems lies with the drivers side door. I can pull the door inwards and the doors will lock again ! Sometimes the doors will lock while im warming it up and all I need to do is push on the drivers side door and all the locks will pop up !
Advice please ?
I drive a 99 4runner
I can lock my doors with the power off and it works no problem. When I put the truck into drive the doors lock but instantly unlock. The problems lies with the drivers side door. I can pull the door inwards and the doors will lock again ! Sometimes the doors will lock while im warming it up and all I need to do is push on the drivers side door and all the locks will pop up !
Advice please ?
GottaBeTRD
New member
love this forum! Mine just started to do this too. It's weird, the other day I was walking away trying to lock the doors as usual and I noticed it didn't beep or anything, so i got right up to it and noticed the other 3 doors were locking but the driver side was not.
I'm thinking it was from being in the sun too long too cause it works fine when everything is cooled off. Mine also locks and unlocks sometimes when i start it up too. its got a mind of its own.
if anyone else ever has this problem and can shoot some pics of this yellow thing, I might just dive into it myself.
I'm thinking it was from being in the sun too long too cause it works fine when everything is cooled off. Mine also locks and unlocks sometimes when i start it up too. its got a mind of its own.
if anyone else ever has this problem and can shoot some pics of this yellow thing, I might just dive into it myself.
The same thing happened to me but it didn't have anything to do with the yellow plastic clips mentioned earlier. The drivers door lock actuator was behaving the same way on my '99 Limited and then all of a sudden it stopped working altogether. I assumed it was a bad actuator so I ordered an OEM replacement from Amazon for around $110 and installed it a few days later. No luck! I still had the same problem but now I was out $110 and I wasted 30 minutes tearing the door apart and installing the actuator. :redbrick:
So I got out my continuity test probe and my test light, plugged the switches back in to the door harness, unplugged the harness from the actuator and started probing the two center wires, which are used to power the actuator. (The other two wires are for the lock detection switch which is how the truck knows the door is locked or not and will therefore beep if it is locked, or not beep if it's unlocked, when you hit the lock button on the remote.) I found that one wire was normally ground but switched to +12v when pressing the unlock button but the other wire was neither ground nor +12v with either position of the power lock switch. I removed the drivers side kick panel, found that same wire at the junction plug between the body harness and the door harness, probed the wire at that plug while alternating between pressing lock and unlock, and at that spot I had constant ground until I pressed the lock button and it changed to +12v. This indicated to me that I had an open circuit somewhere between that junction plug and the plug for the lock actuator.
I reached in the door and grabbed that wire where it passes through the hinge side of the door, and I was able to pull the wire right out because there was a break in the wire halfway between the door and the body inside that long rubber grommet/tube that protects the harness. Because I didn't want to take the door off or pull the door harness out, I had to snake a section of equivalent gauge and color wire through that grommet/tube, solder and heat shrink the connection on the kick panel side, pull the slack through to the door side of the grommet/tube, and then solder and heat shrink inside the door. It was a real big PITA to solder and heat shrink that wire together inside that cramped door. At one point I was wishing I would have pulled the door harness out of the door, but I completed the repair, taped up the loose wires, and hit the lock button. All of the power locks worked as expected!
One thing to note about this, is since the drivers door has by far the most use out of the 4 doors and because the power locks and windows for all of the doors run through that door harness, other wires can break in that same spot that could leave someone scratching their head in confusion for a long time. (e.g. the passenger rear window no longer goes up or down. One would think it would have to do with the power window motor in that door, not a broken wire in the driver's door.)
HighspeedLowdrag
New member
My issue is the drivers door will not open now. All the other doors lock and unlock and open properly. My wife had to climb through the passenger today. Can you get the panel off with the door closed?
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