Driveshaft came loose on the road help

T

The Seagull

New member
Ok so my 86 4 runner driveshaft came loose at the transfer case while driving got some insane shake. I'm trying to bolt it back up but I can't get the u joint to sit flush with the transfer case thing there is about a quarter inch gap between them. How do I get them together so I can bolt them and go home
 
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The Seagull said:
Ok so my 86 4 runner driveshaft came loose at the transfer case while driving got some insane shake. I'm trying to bolt it back up but I can't get the u joint to sit flush with the transfer case thing there is about a quarter inch gap between them. How do I get them together so I can bolt them and go home
Click to expand...
can you get a pic?

is the issue between the driveline and the yoke, or the yoke and the t-case?
 
Came loose because the u-joint failed or because the bolts came out?

Either way if it happened while you were driving I bet it was exciting for a moment while you got stopped.
 
878894771669a6e4e909edf54934b1cf.jpg
do you know what the seal behind the yolk is called?
 
The seal is called a transfer case output shaft seal.

Did the driveshaft slap around a lot when it came apart? You may have bent it, which is probably why you are feeling the shakes so bad. It could also be that its not sitting flat against the tailshaft spindle (your quarter inch issue).

Musta been one hell of a ride when it came apart!
 
To get you home, you could just remove rear driveline, put it in 4 wheel drive and drive home with front wheel drive, and deal with it at home.
 
flyinhawaiian01 said:
The seal is called a transfer case output shaft seal.

Did the driveshaft slap around a lot when it came apart? You may have bent it, which is probably why you are feeling the shakes so bad. It could also be that its not sitting flat against the tailshaft spindle (your quarter inch issue).

Musta been one hell of a ride when it came apart!
Click to expand...
It actually held on by 2 bolts not on opposite sides so it was spinning unbalanced causing the shake. I got it back together by tightening 1 bolt until I could get the other on the threads then tightening them all. the shake is gone but there was fluid all over the underside of the car above the yolk which makes me think the seal is bad. The Toyota dealership told me that there is no seal behind that which pissed me off
 
Also one last question I got it all tightened up but when I step on the gas pedal I can hear a clank when I step and let off the gas what do think that is?
 
^ That. The vibes from driving with your driveshaft flopping around like a drunk fish have destroyed the tcase output seal, probably jacked up the tcase-side ujoint, maybe the second ujoint, and possibly jacked up the splines in the slip shaft. There's a chance you boogered everything from the tcase output shaft/bearing to the pinion seal and bearing in the third member.
 
^That. Prepare for the worse & pray for the best. The fluid could just be from the death wobble you had allowing a leak at the seal. Or it could have destroyed the seal, ujoints, ................
 
Time for a little preventative (hopefully) maintenance. Pull the drive shaft out completely. Put it on your work bench, check both u-joints for play. Chances are at least one will be shot, maybe both.

After you put it back together make sure it is in phase because an out of phase DS will cause all kinds of vibrations.

Before you bolt it up look for excessive play on both the flanges. It is possible the oil in your picture is just normal wear and tear for an almost 30 year old truck. If everything seems tight, clean up really good around the flanges put it back together. Then keep an eye on it for additional leaks. If it does drip some more you know you need a seal -or two. If not you are good to go.

Roll around under it every once in a while, it is good for you and it!
 
Red Tintop said:
Time for a little preventative (hopefully) maintenance. Pull the drive shaft out completely. Put it on your work bench, check both u-joints for play. Chances are at least one will be shot, maybe both.

After you put it back together make sure it is in phase because an out of phase DS will cause all kinds of vibrations.

Before you bolt it up look for excessive play on both the flanges. It is possible the oil in your picture is just normal wear and tear for an almost 30 year old truck. If everything seems tight, clean up really good around the flanges put it back together. Then keep an eye on it for additional leaks. If it does drip some more you know you need a seal -or two. If not you are good to go.

Roll around under it every once in a while, it is good for you and it!
Click to expand...
What do you mean by make sure it is in phase?
 
Red Tintop said:
Time for a little preventative (hopefully) maintenance. Pull the drive shaft out completely. Put it on your work bench, check both u-joints for play. Chances are at least one will be shot, maybe both.

After you put it back together make sure it is in phase because an out of phase DS will cause all kinds of vibrations.

Before you bolt it up look for excessive play on both the flanges. It is possible the oil in your picture is just normal wear and tear for an almost 30 year old truck. If everything seems tight, clean up really good around the flanges put it back together. Then keep an eye on it for additional leaks. If it does drip some more you know you need a seal -or two. If not you are good to go.

Roll around under it every once in a while, it is good for you and it!
Click to expand...
And for the u joint all I have to buy is the propeller shift right? Is it possible to check the u joints while it is bolted on?
 
The drive shaft has to be slid together the same on both ends, like this:

UjointPhasing.gif


Even being off one spline when you put it back together can cause vibrations.

It is certainly possible to check the u-joints on the truck--but, sometimes the driveline will be slightly bound up in such a way that the u-joint will feel tight because the t-case and/or the rear diff is holding it tight. By removing the DS you are sure nothing is bound up and that the test is accurate.

I am not sure what you mean by "And for the u joint all I have to buy is the propeller shift right?"
 
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