driveshaft issue

01thunder

01thunder

New member
replaced U joints because it was time. now, it vibrates at certain speeds, which it didn't do before. i was told not to waste money balancing it because it is a 2 piece shaft, having the diff end inside a tube held by rubber. is this true? i haven't inspected it other than looking at it to replace the joints.
 
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2WD = rubber isolator in driveshaft
4WD = nothing of the sort.

If you have a 2WD and you are getting driveshaft vibrations due to the rubber coupler, you will need a complete new shaft. I have one for sale, but its a bit of a challenge to ship it there...

-Charlie
 
Sounds like they didn't put match marks on the slip yoke shaft and driveshaft to match it back up and keep it balanced.
 
phattyduck said:
2WD = rubber isolator in driveshaft
4WD = nothing of the sort.

If you have a 2WD and you are getting driveshaft vibrations due to the rubber coupler, you will need a complete new shaft. I have one for sale, but its a bit of a challenge to ship it there...

-Charlie
Click to expand...

i don't know if it is due to that but it wasn't vibrating with the old joints.
 
phattyduck said:
2WD = rubber isolator in driveshaft
4WD = nothing of the sort.

If you have a 2WD and you are getting driveshaft vibrations due to the rubber coupler, you will need a complete new shaft. I have one for sale, but its a bit of a challenge to ship it there...

-Charlie
Click to expand...

is 4wd same size?
 
drive

pauldub said:
No, and there are several lengths for 4WD.
Click to expand...

4WD without AWD (no 4WD button) long drive shaft
4WD with AWD (4WD button) short drive shaft.

Did you get the 4 C clamps on all 4 cups on the U-joint?

Are those OEM?

Did you use a hammer to drive in the U-joint caps? This may have damaged the rubber coupler.
 
01thunder said:
replaced U joints because it was time. now, it vibrates at certain speeds, which it didn't do before. i was told not to waste money balancing it because it is a 2 piece shaft, having the diff end inside a tube held by rubber. is this true? i haven't inspected it other than looking at it to replace the joints.
Click to expand...

Ha. This is funny because the EXACT same thing happened to me. I changed my rear u joint about three weeks ago and now I have a different vibration. Mine starts at 65 and basically gets worse from there as speed increases. I'm not sure what to do at this point except drop $300+ on a Tom wood drive shaft.
 
01thunder said:
no. both move ok.
Click to expand...

take the drive shaft out and put in in the opposite position. when doing this make sure the U joints are properly set and move very easy.

I mark both ends and install as it came out .

some times if not careful the yoke ears get hammered and can bend this will do it. I use a press C clamp method. when I was in the shop we did these using a hydro press so we rarely had and issues .

using a hammer you gotta be careful...
 
nissanh said:
4WD without AWD (no 4WD button) long drive shaft
4WD with AWD (4WD button) short drive shaft.

Did you get the 4 C clamps on all 4 cups on the U-joint? both complete

Are those OEM? no

Did you use a hammer to drive in the U-joint caps? This may have damaged the rubber coupler.
Click to expand...
no. i have tool for U joints.
 
catrains said:
take the drive shaft out and put in in the opposite position. when doing this make sure the U joints are properly set and move very easy.

I mark both ends and install as it came out .

some times if not careful the yoke ears get hammered and can bend this will do it. I use a press C clamp method. when I was in the shop we did these using a hydro press so we rarely had and issues .

using a hammer you gotta be careful...
Click to expand...

take it apart again? or turn it 180 degrees? i marked everything before removal. always done that. i have a tool for R&R of U joints. everything assembled fine and they move freely, no binding.
 
Re

I had a u joint on the brink of failure, thought my back end was going to vibrate itself apart.

Pulled one from a junkyard for $40.

I have been riding smooth ever since.

******For something to do with the driveline, use OEM or don't even bother doing the repair. Because even if it works, it will fail very quickly.
 
01thunder said:
take it apart again? or turn it 180 degrees? i marked everything before removal. always done that. i have a tool for R&R of U joints. everything assembled fine and they move freely, no binding.
Click to expand...

I said to remove it inspect it then put it in the opposite way. see what happens.

then if it still is bad I would replace the U joints and put back in as you marked it.

since I did not watch you do this work or have any knowledge of you U joint experience I would guess you damaged the U joint. easy to do by hitting them or loosing a needle bearing .
 
catrains said:
I said to remove it inspect it then put it in the opposite way. see what happens.

then if it still is bad I would replace the U joints and put back in as you marked it.

since I did not watch you do this work or have any knowledge of you U joint experience I would guess you damaged the U joint. easy to do by hitting them or loosing a needle bearing .
Click to expand...

everything is marked. no issues with them on my end. done plenty on other vehicles with the proper tool.
 
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