Driveshaft spline alignment

[mtbtim]

Check the condition of the boots, my boot has been torn for over a year now and I can feel it getting progressively worse. Especially at corners on the highway at 100km/h.
The joke is that you wouldn't even move an inch with no rear driveshaft or CVs
No power could get sent to the wheels.

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Dude, what are you waiting for? It's probably already too late but our OEM CVs are superior to anything aftermarket. You should have rebooted that thing a long time ago.

Here's a reboot video for you. You can probably disregard the boot stretch mod we show in the video.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vcCT4UgFUTw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[OldManKamps]

Dude, what are you waiting for? It's probably already too late but our OEM CVs are superior to anything aftermarket. You should have rebooted that thing a long time ago.

Here's a reboot video for you. You can probably disregard the boot stretch mod we show in the video.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vcCT4UgFUTw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

gahh I know. I had noticed it after a while and i didn't have the knowledge I do now. I kept putting it off and by the time I felt confident enough to pull the CV, there was definitely too much crap in there. So I pumped it full of tractor grease and now I'm just riding on borrowed time. Literally got off the phone with partsource while i was typing up this reply. They have one by trackmotive which has a lifetime warranty, any problem and they replace it for free. I think that's alright so I'm gonna just rock an aftermarket one.

Also, I learned all about the cv replacement from this video haha. I love your vids man, watch them all the time. Planning on doing the valve cover gaskets this summer using your vid.

 

[phattyduck]

The only way not to get the front driveshaft to turn would be with locking hubs. Even then you will still get some spinning from momentum.
In reverse order from the way power is transfered.. The front wheels connect to the CV's. When the front wheels spin the CV's are spinning. The CV's connect to the spider gears. The spider gears in a differential are there to connect the spinning shafts to the ring gear/carrier which in turn connects to the pinion. The pinion in turn is connected to the driveshaft. Spider gears in a diff case for an open diff, such as ours, are there to transfer power, but also allow for the inner wheel to spin at a different speed the the outer wheel during a turn. Since we do not have locking hub on our front flanges, when both wheels are spinning in the same direction, the CV's, front differential and front driveshaft are spinning as well.
With an open diff you can hold one wheel and spin the other wheel, the pinion will spin. But you cannot spin both wheels the same direction without the pinion spinning.

You'll want to read up on how the ADD system works. When disconnected, the left axle drives the spider gears, the right axle drives nothing. The ring and pinion gears stays stationary.

Reach under your truck (with it in 2WD) and spin that front driveshaft... it isn't connected to both front wheels when in 2WD.

-Charlie

 

[csp]

The only way not to get the front driveshaft to turn would be with locking hubs.

No, you're forgetting about the ADD (automatic differential disconnect).

 

[OldManKamps]

Dude, what are you waiting for? It's probably already too late but our OEM CVs are superior to anything aftermarket. You should have rebooted that thing a long time ago.

Here's a reboot video for you. You can probably disregard the boot stretch mod we show in the video.

Actually Tim, my local junkyard has a 2001 CV shaft for sale for $50. Do you think it would be worth it to get this one rather than an aftermarket CV? The boot kit from Toyota is $150 + tax + shipping up here in Canada which seems pretty expensive so I'd consider just rolling with the old boots.

 

[mtbtim]

Actually Tim, my local junkyard has a 2001 CV shaft for sale for $50. Do you think it would be worth it to get this one rather than an aftermarket CV? The boot kit from Toyota is $150 + tax + shipping up here in Canada which seems pretty expensive so I'd consider just rolling with the old boots.

If I bought a used CV axle, I'd want to reboot it before installing it because who knows how long those old boots will last you and then you might be pulling the whole thing out again when they fail. $150 is pretty steep. Does a online seller like Camelback Toyota ship to Canada?

If you can't get CV boots for any cheaper, I'd just roll with aftermarket CVs that offer the lifetime warranty.

 

[OldManKamps]

If I bought a used CV axle, I'd want to reboot it before installing it because who knows how long those old boots will last you and then you might be pulling the whole thing out again when they fail. $150 is pretty steep. Does a online seller like Camelback Toyota ship to Canada?

If you can't get CV boots for any cheaper, I'd just roll with aftermarket CVs that offer the lifetime warranty.

It's funny because the the Canadian dollar is so different from U.S. so it's about the same I guess. I'm gonna see how much it is direct from Toyota.
I looked into that warranty more. "We do not replace broken boots or shafts" ?!?!?! What do they replace??

 

[weezykid]

You'll want to read up on how the ADD system works. When disconnected, the left axle drives the spider gears, the right axle drives nothing. The ring and pinion gears stays stationary.

Reach under your truck (with it in 2WD) and spin that front driveshaft... it isn't connected to both front wheels when in 2WD.

-Charlie

No, you're forgetting about the ADD (automatic differential disconnect).

Yes I did forget about the ADD, sorry about that. However the front driveshaft does not sit stationary as you may think. I mentioned "momentum" before, but I believe the proper term in this case would be inertia. I have had a blob of grease on my front shaft before cause a rotational vibration while in 2wd. Removed the grease and there were no more vibes while driving.

 

[Lindenwood]

It's funny because the the Canadian dollar is so different from U.S. so it's about the same I guess. I'm gonna see how much it is direct from Toyota.
I looked into that warranty more. "We do not replace broken boots or shafts" ?!?!?! What do they replace??

I think he means going with CV axles from an auto parts store. Check with yours, but many down here offer CV axles with lifetime replacement warrelanties for pretty cheap. I think I have seen them for $75 after turning in your factory axle as a core! One note: it is generally understood that they won't be as strong as factory axles, but milder 4WD use shouldnt be an issue for them .

 

[OldManKamps]

I think he means going with CV axles from an auto parts store. Check with yours, but many down here offer CV axles with lifetime replacement warrelanties for pretty cheap. I think I have seen them for $75 after turning in your factory axle as a core! One note: it is generally understood that they won't be as strong as factory axles, but milder 4WD use shouldnt be an issue for them .

They offer a CV with a lifetime warranty for $149.99.
I'm unsure about the core charge! It would be nice if there was one haha

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[RonJR]

Yes I did forget about the ADD, sorry about that. However the front driveshaft does not sit stationary as you may think. I mentioned "momentum" before, but I believe the proper term in this case would be inertia. I have had a blob of grease on my front shaft before cause a rotational vibration while in 2wd. Removed the grease and there were no more vibes while driving.

The proper term is neither momentum or inertia. Those terms loosely have to do with bodies at rest staying at rest, and bodies in motion staying in motion. In this case the proper term would be friction. I suppose in a poorly lubricated front diff there could be enough friction in the spider gears when in 2wd with ADD unlocked to cause the ring gear and drive shaft to spin slowly. However, a properly lubricated front diff will not do this. The spider gears spin on the cross shaft extremely freely, and there's no way they'll overcome the friction in the drive shaft, especially not through the 4:1 or so gearing disadvantage between the ring gear and the pinion.

You might check as to whether your ADD is really unlocking. If it's stuck in the locked position then the front drive shaft will turn.

 

[mtbtim]

It's funny because the the Canadian dollar is so different from U.S. so it's about the same I guess. I'm gonna see how much it is direct from Toyota.
I looked into that warranty more. "We do not replace broken boots or shafts" ?!?!?! What do they replace??

I guess what they means is they'll replace a defective CV axle if the one of the joints starts failing, like making clicking sounds. They view the boots as a wear item I guess and if you somehow slam your CV axle into something and break it, they won't replace that either. Auto parts stores in the Good Ol' US of A are much more liberal with their warranty policies. I'm pretty sure Napa will replace a CV axle with a torn boot but I may be wrong.

 

[OldManKamps]

I guess what they means is they'll replace a defective CV axle if the one of the joints starts failing, like making clicking sounds. They view the boots as a wear item I guess and if you somehow slam your CV axle into something and break it, they won't replace that either. Auto parts stores in the Good Ol' US of A are much more liberal with their warranty policies. I'm pretty sure Napa will replace a CV axle with a torn boot but I may be wrong.

I'm going off their "warranty information" online so we'll see what actually happens.
I'll probably just go aftermarket. I don't wheel too much and I don't plan on having the old girl for too long.

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[weezykid]

The proper term is neither momentum or inertia. Those terms loosely have to do with bodies at rest staying at rest, and bodies in motion staying in motion. In this case the proper term would be friction. I suppose in a poorly lubricated front diff there could be enough friction in the spider gears when in 2wd with ADD unlocked to cause the ring gear and drive shaft to spin slowly. However, a properly lubricated front diff will not do this. The spider gears spin on the cross shaft extremely freely, and there's no way they'll overcome the friction in the drive shaft, especially not through the 4:1 or so gearing disadvantage between the ring gear and the pinion.

You might check as to whether your ADD is really unlocking. If it's stuck in the locked position then the front drive shaft will turn.

My ADD is working as it should and my driveshaft spins freely by hand when the tcase is in 2wd. My diff lube is Amsoil and not very old. Tcase lube is the same It is not un-common for a front driveshaft to spin in 2wd even when everything is operating properly. It is not spinning by power being transferred, but by possible moving fluid in the tcase, fluid movement in the diff, etc. Zip tie a small washer hanging off your front shaft or add a blob of grease to yours (throws it off balance) and take it for a short test drive. I have had sold axle vehicles with locking hubs in the unlocked position and the tcase in 2wd do the same. One had a bad slip joint in the front driveshaft that caused a horrible vibe under power. Driveshaft spun freely in 2wd just like our 4runners.
Even with ADD disconnecting one axle, you still have another axle spinning your spider gears as the tire/cv/axle turns.

 

[camdenbuck]

I read your thread for spline shaft alignment. I recent replaced my u-joint on my 2001 4runner. Marked the flange to the spline shaft but not the spline to the driveshaft. It started wobbling and then popped. The spline shaft yoke is slightly skewed when compared to the yoke on the other end of the shaft (towards the front). I was looking at the diagram and don't know whether I have a 2 piece or 3 piece. This is a drawing for a 1st gen. Is this the same principle for the 3rd gen? Any help would be greatly appreciated/