Dual Case Questions
- Thread starter jkeith.w
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Body Lift for Forward Twin Sticks?
Another question; I've read about having to cut the tunnel to run forward sticks, and that having a body lift would help reduce the amount of cutting needed - any insights here?
After seeing [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] s install, I'm definitely looking at forward sticks...
Another question; I've read about having to cut the tunnel to run forward sticks, and that having a body lift would help reduce the amount of cutting needed - any insights here?
After seeing [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] s install, I'm definitely looking at forward sticks...
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Roc Doc
New member
"stuck with" is a relative term. The big part about why a Rubicon Jeep works [cough] well is the 4:1 transfer case, and if you use two 2.28 cases then you've got the equivalent of 5.20 transfer case gears.
I ran the hardest trails in the west with two stock cases and 38" tires and in 10 years there was only a couple times I'd wished for lower.
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Rockdawg84
New member
I have a 1/2 inch body lift (welded my sliders on to tight and got tired of the pinch weld banging on them) I did not have to trim except for the back of the opening due to the front adapter moving all the shifters back a bit. Unlike dual setups in a 1st or 2nd gen we need an extra adapter plate (taco Plate) in front of our reduction box so it shifts everything back.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
So that 1/2 allowed the linkages to clear, or the linkage clearance was fine without the BL?
Rockdawg84
New member
it would have been really tight without it. I believe that there would be binding or rubbing without a body lift. but I think the sheetmetal could be worked without being cut for clearance except for opening the back of the opening. Honestly a 1/2" or 1" body lift makes things much easier for a lot of things besides this. there is less clearancing for 35's as well.
IBallEngineer
New member
Yes, very doable, especially in a truggy. The benefit of the 4.7 behind the 2.28 is that you don't have to run 5 something axle ratio, so you can run 35's or 33's and STILL have 10.7 low range when you need or want it. But I've run a single case in my L/C for 20 years and I did everything I wanted to do. Well except for that one thing...
Sean K.
New member
Having run just a 4.7 case and duals with 2.28/4.7.....I'd have to say I agree with Roc Doc...for the most part.
If you have a rig with a LOT of sheetmetal, like a T4R, the only real reason for the super deep gearing of the rear 4.7 case is to give more control and less body lurch in really technical sections of trail....like when you're close to bashing the rear window or a door panel in on a tight squeeze rock and you're on the best line to get through the obstacle. That is when having super low gearing is nice.
However, for almost all wheeling situations, 2.28 and (2.56 in the OP's case) will be low enough for almost everything but those really tight instances mentioned above.
In short, you may want the 4.7 case, but you probably don't really need it.
Sean K.
New member
Don't know about with the tacobox....but in the traditional 2.28 followed by 4.7....you can use just the 4.7, just the 2.28 or both together.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Sean K.
New member
Again, can't guarantee that's how the Tacobox works....but ya, you should have 2.28, 2.56 and 5.83 (combined). If you want the lowest gear...just put both shifters in Low....if you want one tcase vs. the other...just leave one in High and put the other in Low.
rkntoy
New member
That is how it works. Same as other dual case Toyota setups. And if you twin stick the rear (stock) case you can have all of those options in either 2wd or 4wd.
Sean K.
New member
But not front dig
Since you don't get front dig with twin sticks, I don't really see the point.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
But not front dig
Since you don't get front dig with twin sticks, I don't really see the point.
Need explanation here.
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Pretty sure I'm going 4.7 in the front (if I can afford it)
1. 2.56
2. 4.7
3. Combined (what's that, 12 something?)
On the other hand; I don't plan on 35s, so I might be able to live with 2 ratios.
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Sean K.
New member
Front dig....front wheel drive only. With lockers and either a line lock(s) in the rear or individual cutting brakes to the rear wheels you can pivot around obstacles and make super tight turns. However, you need either upgraded axles (think 300M) in front or D60 type strength. Depending on tire size and use....even with 300M shafts in a 60....you could end up breaking. Front dig is damn hard on steering axles. While it's no substitute for 4wheel steering....it does markedly increase maneuverability.
Twin stick in a Toy case just gives you 2wd low options....Twin sticks in Atlas IIs, D300s and TWF Heros give you front dig capability. To me, just getting 2wd low doesn't offer much. I could always just unlock the hubs....but why bother? What kind of trail do I need just 2wd low on? I can't think of an instance.
Sean K.
New member
Pretty sure I'm going 4.7 in the front (if I can afford it)
1. 2.56
2. 4.7
3. Combined (what's that, 12 something?)
On the other hand; I don't plan on 35s, so I might be able to live with 2 ratios.
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Ya, it's over 12:1 combined.
IMO, if you can afford it AND you wheel very technical, tight trails....it can't hurt, but you probably don't need it.
