New 03 4.7 with over 300k miles questions.

04run&gun

New member
How's it going everybody, been a long time. I've missed y'all. A few years ago my 04 was totaled due to idiot rear ending me . In my heart broken, frustrated stupidity I decided I was going to get something already fixed up instead of starting over. Well, I got an 06 Tacoma with six spd manual trans, icon coilovers, arp rear leafs and to top it off stage 1 URD s/c. After the first month I realized the truck needed some serious attention. Kept throwing a code for multiple misfire. I did things like new spark plugs, coil packs, new fuel injectors etc. when I thought it was bad cats I decided to go URD long tubes and well basically the exhaust that would make it stage 2, ordered a pulley and emailed URD for an online tune. Still didn't fix the problem, later found it was one of the exhaust cam gears off 1 tooth. Then the throw out barring went out in the clutch so we did a sleeve repair, heavy flywheel and stage two clutch. Forgot to mention it also had a lefty inchworm t-case. Anyway, during the time I was chasing issues I had a hunt come up that I needed something reliable for so I picked up an 03 4Runner sport 4.7 for 4500 bucks with 237k miles. My buddy that helped me work on the taco did a timing belt, water pump and new radiator. Later I sold the Tacoma. I've been driving the runner 55 miles a day for work and out to town on the weekends with the wife and hunting in the mountains here and there, all in 4hi cuz the 4lo actuator is stuck. It's got 318xxxk miles now. Original shocks and springs, original everything as far as I know other than some 255/70-17 ko2s take offs I put on when I first got it.
I need some 4.7 experienced owners to maybe give me some advice with some things I'm not sure is normal or not. I plan to get a Camry for work/town and I want to fix up what I have vs buy two new vehicles.

1: sometimes (with cruise control on) at 75 mph I run at different RPMs. Sometimes real good around 21-2200 other times 25-2600 same speed same freeway. The tranny has a dipstick so I have checked it and made sure it has the right amount. Also something else, on the highway coming down from the mountains, if I ride the brakes and slow enough I can feel an obvious downshift. That doesn't bother me but when I'm ready to pick up speed again it has a hard time with wanting to upshift, I have to play with the throttle a bit till it finally goes. I've been told three things, it's the torque converter, the transmission itself or the throttle position sensor. What say y'all?

2: the fan seems loud like a fords e-fan. Is this a 4.7 thing?

Anywho, like I said I want to fix it up. Should I start searching a used low mileage transmission, is it something else? Is there a "less complicated" fix for the 4lo motor? I saw a couple vids on YouTube but 'idunno' pretty sure I read on here that you have to disassemble the t-case should I source a new/used t-case as well?
Thanks in advance, It's nice to be back.
 
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This could be the unlocked torque converter raising your RPM with a set road speed controlled by cruise control.
Try driving same route where you normally set at 75 mph at a lower speed -like 65 mph and see if the RPM increases.
Then try in S4 at maybe 70 mph same as above with cruise control and see if any RPM changes.
My guess is at 75 the engine is maxed for torque & HP, so instead of a full downshifting a gear, it unlocks the torque converter and the RPM increase is "slipage". If you could read tranny temperature you would see a increase when torque converter unlockes fow a couple minutes.
 
This could be the unlocked torque converter raising your RPM with a set road speed controlled by cruise control.
Try driving same route where you normally set at 75 mph at a lower speed -like 65 mph and see if the RPM increases.
Then try in S4 at maybe 70 mph same as above with cruise control and see if any RPM changes.
My guess is at 75 the engine is maxed for torque & HP, so instead of a full downshifting a gear, it unlocks the torque converter and the RPM increase is "slipage". If you could read tranny temperature you would see a increase when torque converter unlockes fow a couple minutes.

Hard to imagine that the 4.7L is maxed out HP/torque at 75 MPH. That would be easy to check; will it accelerate past 75MPH and keep on going? I think it will.
 
Perhaps the tranny is showing its age, wear& tear.
 

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Hard to imagine that the 4.7L is maxed out HP/torque at 75 MPH. That would be easy to check; will it accelerate past 75MPH and keep on going? I think it will.

The 4Runner easily accelerates to 100 mph. The inconsistent rpm readings happen weather I'm using cruise control or not. I only regarded using cc so the reader wouldn't assume it was my foot . I'd have to say 80% of the time the RPMs are at 23-2400 at 75mph. 15% preferably less around 21-2200 and every once and a while 5% 25-2600. Like it won't go into over drive from 5th gear. Similar to when descending on the mountain highway and it doesn't want to upshift to a higher gear.
 
The 4Runner easily accelerates to 100 mph. The inconsistent rpm readings happen weather I'm using cruise control or not. I only regarded using cc so the reader wouldn't assume it was my foot ��. I'd have to say 80% of the time the RPMs are at 23-2400 at 75mph. 15% preferably less around 21-2200 and every once and a while 5% 25-2600. Like it won't go into over drive from 5th gear. Similar to when descending on the mountain highway and it doesn't want to upshift to a higher gear.

This could be a issue with either shift or TC lockout solenoids inside the transmission, but usually you would get a trouble code/s, or could just be the TC has gone bad, take it to a good transmission shop for diagnosis.
 
This could be a issue with either shift or TC lockout solenoids inside the transmission, but usually you would get a trouble code/s, or could just be the TC has gone bad, take it to a good transmission shop for diagnosis.

I'm not getting any trouble codes whatsoever. The only lights I get are a really annoying red ♥️ one of a seatbelt and the occasional orange one that says MAINT.
Another symptom I'm experiencing is from 1st gear to 2nd. And this is what I meant when I said my fans loud. The RPMs don't go way up but sounds like it is. Really it happens in 1st 2nd and 3rd but it's most noticeable when I'm going slow. Same sound when I'm on the highway and it doesn't want to go in to overdrive after 5th gear or when I'm descending and in down shifts itself. It sounds like you would expect it to if you were driving a manual and it was time to shift and you weren't. I'm sure as the reader your like...."sounds normal" but my 4spd v6 didn't act this way. That's why I asked if this is a 4.7 thing. Someone told me their uncles tundra was like that.
 
I'm not getting any trouble codes whatsoever. The only lights I get are a really annoying red ♥️ one of a seatbelt and the occasional orange one that says MAINT.
Another symptom I'm experiencing is from 1st gear to 2nd. And this is what I meant when I said my fans loud. The RPMs don't go way up but sounds like it is. Really it happens in 1st 2nd and 3rd but it's most noticeable when I'm going slow. Same sound when I'm on the highway and it doesn't want to go in to overdrive after 5th gear or when I'm descending and in down shifts itself. It sounds like you would expect it to if you were driving a manual and it was time to shift and you weren't. I'm sure as the reader your like...."sounds normal" but my 4spd v6 didn't act this way. That's why I asked if this is a 4.7 thing. Someone told me their uncles tundra was like that.

Your "fan" issue (which I'm assuming it the fan on the engine and not the AC/heater fan) could be the fan clutch going or is bad allowing the fan to turn faster than it should.

I still suggest taking it to a transmission specialist to have the transmission checked/diagnosed.

Just in case you don't know the "MAINT" light is just a reminder light to change the oil and gets reset once you do the oil change.
 
I don't see it mentioned, but have you changed the transmission fluid. Maybe I missed it. If not that's what I would do, 3 drain and fills within 50-100 miles of driving, using the correct fluid.
 
Your "fan" issue (which I'm assuming it the fan on the engine and not the AC/heater fan) could be the fan clutch going or is bad allowing the fan to turn faster than it should.

I still suggest taking it to a transmission specialist to have the transmission checked/diagnosed.

Just in case you don't know the "MAINT" light is just a reminder light to change the oil and gets reset once you do the oil change.
Lol I reread my message and realized I didn't make my sarcasm very clear lol. Good looking out though regardless.
 
I don't see it mentioned, but have you changed the transmission fluid. Maybe I missed it. If not that's what I would do, 3 drain and fills within 50-100 miles of driving, using the correct fluid.

I've both read and been told that changing the fluid on a transmission with this high of miles is flirting with trouble.
 
I've both read and been told that changing the fluid on a transmission with this high of miles is flirting with trouble.

That's BS IMO. But also why I would do it slowly, by drain and fills and not by flushing. The trans fluid becomes contaminated by clutch pack wear for one thing and degraded by heat over time, like any other lubricant, therefore it needs to be changed regularly. Leaving dirty/worn out fluid in the trans doesn't do anything for smooth shifting, solenoid life, etc.
 
Auseeker. I do think I'm going to go ahead and get a new fan clutch just for good measure. Should do a new serpentine belt too for good measure.
Rdruss. Filter too?
 
Auseeker. I do think I'm going to go ahead and get a new fan clutch just for good measure. Should do a new serpentine belt too for good measure.
Rdruss. Filter too?

I've never done the filter on mine and as I understand it is a fine metal screen not a replaceable element, so I would say, no.
 
Just an update.
Today I replaced the fan clutch and fan with new ones from Rock Auto. Definitely seems like it quieted down a bit. When I went to removed the fan clutch I found that I had three 12mm nuts and one 13mm holding it on the pulley. Also my old fan was attached to the fan clutch with bolts and lock washers, the clutch had female threads. My new fan clutch has males studs pressed into it and didn't come with nuts so off to the parts store (ace/o'reallys). My new nuts are 13mm now instead of 12 holding it to the pulley but at least they're the same and I found the ones I needed to attach the fan to the clutch. I also did my first drain and fill of about (not quite) 3.5L tranny fluid. I logged in to re-search how many miles till I do it again and thought I'd let y'all know. Thanks for the help.
I also did an oil change, serpentine belt and replaced my radiator cap. My coolant reservoir always has dried coolant around the cap. I've tried like crazy to burp it and figure out what is causing it but it's always done it. My old radiator cap seemed to be seized.
 
Howdy. 4Runner is doing good, the transmission fluid drain and fill seems to have made an improvement. The RPMs are still inconsistent at times so that hasn't been resolved. I'm monitoring the trans temp too, hasn't gone over 163°f
I'm about to do the brakes. I priced OEM (non remans) front calipers from the steelership. They are for a 2012 4Runner, (338) $240 each. In my cart on rock Auto I have power stop front and rear calipers, rotors and pads. The front calipers are (if I remember correctly) $320 for the pair. I know OEM will probably outlast the runner at this point. What's y'all's thoughts?
 

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