E-Locker Bench Test

[mtbtim]

Hey Dudes,

Here's a video [MENTION=169810]calnhob[/MENTION], [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I put together to show how you can bench test an e-locker you either bought from someone or pulled from a wrecked 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma before you do all the labor to install it.

If you pulled an entire rear end from a Tacoma, just know that axle housing won't work for you unless you do some alterations because the Tacomas have leaf springs in the rear and we have coil springs. But, you could could grab the e-locker 3rd member from a Tacoma and then either alter your existing axle housing to fit the e-locker or you can get an e-locker housing from a wrecking yard or from somebody selling one online.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OhIPf4_B23M" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[wettRunner]

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
:cheers:

 

[mtbtim]

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
:cheers:

You're very welcome. It's a collaboration of [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION], myself and a host of other good folks that have worked with us to create these videos to share with everyone. It's challenging, fun, and very rewarding and we're going to keep on cranking them out. Happy Wrenching!

 

[57buick]

Help I just swapped front and rear diff gears on my 2018 and ABS, Atrac, and rear diff locker light are flashing and I cant figure it out. Is it possible the rear locker motor was not reinstalled in same position? How can I verify? Or how can I run the motor manually to position it?

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Hey Dudes,

Here's a video [MENTION=169810]calnhob[/MENTION], [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I put together to show how you can bench test an e-locker you either bought from someone or pulled from a wrecked 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma before you do all the labor to install it.

If you pulled an entire rear end from a Tacoma, just know that axle housing won't work for you unless you do some alterations because the Tacomas have leaf springs in the rear and we have coil springs. But, you could could grab the e-locker 3rd member from a Tacoma and then either alter your existing axle housing to fit the e-locker or you can get an e-locker housing from a wrecking yard or from somebody selling one online.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OhIPf4_B23M" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

So I watched the video and am looking at a locker for sale tomorrow (just the 3rd, there's actually an empty elocker axle housing at a local yard I'll pick up if I buy this). He has both the locker ECU and the 4wd computer but does not have the switch. How would I bench test in this config or can I just bench test just directly with a battery on the actuator itself? I might just end up using one of the after market harnesses if I can't find an OEM switch or equivalent.

Edit: actually I just want to try and bench test the actuator only, I'm falling more on the end of doing an aftermarket harness. I guess the biggest concern with this is not going past the limit switches. I did find this resource Anyone know how to bench test a E-Locker? - YotaTech Forums but a link to the diagram is broken and his explanation isn't super clear to me.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Okay so I think I've found some resources to help, can anyone confirm that I'm barking up the right tree possibly?

So we have this connect diagram that is the 8 pin (only 7 used) that is going from the 2 connectors on the housing.

Then we have this description from the post I linked earlier, the link in it is dead

"The 12V guy kit doesn't have any relays so it relies on the internal limit switches in th e-locker. Read into the link below for details. Quick and easy way to test the motor with an alligator clip, two pieces of wire & in my case a Makita 9.6V battery


From:
http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/There are two connectors on the locker. There is a smaller 2-pin connector which connects to a switch that closes when the locker is actually locked, and a larger 5-pin connector which connects to the actuator motor and limit switches.

Pins 1 and 2 go to the motor. Applying +12v to pin 1 and ground pin 2 locks the unit. Reversing the polarity unlocks it.
Pins 3, 4, and 5 go to a limit switch, and are used to stop the motor before the mechanism reaches its mechanical limits. Pin 3 is connected to pin 5 unless the unit is locked. Likewise, Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 unless the unit is unlocked. Notice that while the unit is in transition between states, both pins 3 and 4 connect to pin 5.
So to lock the unit, put the alligator clip across pin 3 and pin 1. Apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 2. While the unit is transitioning from the unlocked to the locked state, pin 3 is connected to pin 5, and so pin 1 receives +12v. Once the unit determines that it has moved far enough to be locked, pin 3 becomes disconnected from pin 5, pin 1 no longer receives +12v and so the motor stops.
Likewise, to unlock the unit, simply put the alligator clip across pins 2 & 4 and apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 1. Once the unit is unlocked, the connection between pins 4 & 5 is broken, and pin 2 no longer receives +12v.
Using the limit switch will prevent the unit from reaching its mechanical limits and will avoid the problems I encountered."

He starts off talking about the 2 separate connectors but I think his description after that is talking about the 8 pin. Can't quite seem to match things up beyond that though although I think I'm figuring it out.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Going to put this here for future reference but Ive got it figured out now. You are actually not testing anything that's coming off the 2 pin connector. That is just telling the ecu that it's all locked up inside the diff. The 6 pin with 5 wires going to the actuator is what the description I posted was talking about.

I found an actual picture of the male connector on the actuator that I drew up a little diagram for. Green is a jumper wire.

 

[Bad Luck]

So I watched the video and am looking at a locker for sale tomorrow (just the 3rd, there's actually an empty elocker axle housing at a local yard I'll pick up if I buy this). He has both the locker ECU and the 4wd computer but does not have the switch. How would I bench test in this config or can I just bench test just directly with a battery on the actuator itself? I might just end up using one of the after market harnesses if I can't find an OEM switch or equivalent.

Edit: actually I just want to try and bench test the actuator only, I'm falling more on the end of doing an aftermarket harness. I guess the biggest concern with this is not going past the limit switches. I did find this resource Anyone know how to bench test a E-Locker? - YotaTech Forums but a link to the diagram is broken and his explanation isn't super clear to me.

I think I have an OEM elocker switch and plug. If you end up needing it let me know and we can figure something out.

 

[shadow247]

For anyone looking to do the Elocker mod. I have multiple Non-Elocker diff housings that I can modify to accept the E-locker if yours is roached out. I had planned to do the notching, etc on my existing housing, but I found a super deal on a complete housing.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

I think I have an OEM elocker switch and plug. If you end up needing it let me know and we can figure something out.

Guy ended up ghosting me. I'm finding better deals off parts trucks though and hopefully one of these come through. I'm probably going with an aftermarket harness anyway.

 

[JohnMc]

As part of putting a front locker in, I swapped the ratios to 4.88 and replaced the rear end. To pull the rear diff out of the housing you need to lock it first. No problem at all, *whirrrr*.

Then after the new diff was in (ECGS FTW!), I stuck the actuator back on and tried the locker. NOTHING. What? Then a frustrating period of troubleshooting ensued. We had a junkyard actuator in the basement, so I tried that. Nothing. Was it bad too? Was my actuator bad to begin with?

Just to confuse the issue even more we unplugged the actuator on my wife's '96 and plugged my actuator in, dangling, to see if it would work. It... didn't? And then her actuator didn't work. None of the actuators worked. It's like an infection spreading.

So when we'd grabbed the actuator from the junkyard we'd also grabbed the wiring harness from the car to the axle, so I tried that and... it worked. All three actuators worked on it (jumping it directly to 12V).

Long overly detailed story cut slightly shot, my harness had apparently been fin up until I flexed it a bit more than normal while removing the actuator. Same for my wife's '96 when we unplugged hers to test, the new position broke some wires and it stopped working. Although hers had given some unresolved periods of not working/working before. It really threw us off the trail to have both harnesses fail completely at the same time, lol.

So yeah, new harnesses are still available. That's a wire that moves whenever the rear suspension moves, which is all the time. And they're 20 - 25 years old now. They're probably going to give you grief when you most need that rear locker.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Well damn, looks like the diagram I made up and linked from Facebook is no longer linked, I'll have to throw it up on a hosting site soon. On a positive note, I found an e locker today and was able to confirm my method for safely bench testing without the ECU and button involved. Worked like a charm and confirmed I got a good deal on a functioning locker.