So your saying it isn't worth it for the effort I would have to invest? I can understand that. My options is a detroit or nothing, lol. I got about 600 set aside and that would cover me for the bearing kit etc and I would have a locker or I would have to get a detroit and just do that.
I'm not saying it isn't worth the effort. If all you want is a locker and you don't care about getting a lower gear ratio, it's just way cheaper and easier to not mess with your front at all and get a 4.10 Taco elocker. Check ebay and CL, I've see them on there many times.
I don't agree about the complete axle swap being the better option because it still leaves you with mix-matched gear ratios. Then you'll need to find and swap front diffs or pay to regear your front to a weak ratio that isn't worth the money. If your going to go to the trouble of regearing, I say do it right the 1st time or don't bother - regear to a ratio that you'll actually get some bang for your buck like 4.88s.
Here's you choices as
I see them:
1) 4.10 elocker and modify the axle yourself:
~$450 avg.
2) Get a Lockright and install it yourself in your driveway:
~$250
3) Get a Detroit and have it installed (still a ratcheting locker like the Lockright, but they operate smoother):
~$500 - Locker
~$250 - Install labor
4) Get an elocked 3rd of any ratio and regear both the front and rear to a ratio that makes sense for the money like 4.88s:
$300 - The 4.30 elocker you could buy right now
~$600 - Front and rear gear sets and bearing kits
$0 - Labor to remove rear 3rd and retrofit axle
~$200 - Labor to have the rear regeared (~$50 less than the install labor for the Detroit because you'll have your 3rd member already removed)
~$450 - Labor to have front regeared
5) Get an ARB locker:
~$800 - Locker
~$150-270 - Air compressor (you can get the small one if it's just for a locker, large if you want to use the compressor for tires and other stuff also)
~$350 - Install labor (more because the compressor must be installed and everything wired in.