E-Locker Fuse?!

[Tyler James Inc]

I am at my wits-end with this thing.
Relay is clicking, motor isn't making a peep.
Checked for 12v at the connector-
One wire is hot for 5 seconds after turning ON the locker, and another wire is hot for 5 seconds after turning OFF the locker.
So I thought I had power at the motor.
So maybe there's water in there and shít got ceased.
Took it apart- looked brand new in there.
Okay, let's put 12v to the motor directly- it moved a little, then popped the in-line fuse I used on my test lead.
Tried both directions three times- popped the fuses. Okay, so the rotor is locked.
Took the motor housing off, and one of the magnets was broken and loose. Okay, well that makes sense now.
Glue it back in, put it back together. Still no motor noise.
Okay, wait, how does this 4 wire system work? I have power at the actuator to lock and unlock, but the actual motor leads didn't have 12v... which would actually make perfect sense, cause the rotor was locked, and probably popped a fuse. Let's check the fuses. Uh, don't see any "locker" or "4WD" fuses...
Let's google this. Nope. Nope. Aaaand notta.
Read 20+ e-locker threads, and found nothing on a fuse for the motor.
I'm making myself crazy, and think I broke something putting my actuator back in the diff 4hrs last my bedtime last night [emoji24]
Any help is appreciated.

The "switch" wires have +12v when locking or unlocking the diff, but the actual motor wires never have power.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Ugh, I'm not looking forward to attempting to fix mine.

Hasn't worked since I bought the truck 2 years ago.

Press the button and I hear the motor (or actuator or whatever), but never pops/locks the pin.

I just hear the motor sound for a couple of seconds, then nothing.

Press button → Click → Bvrrr → nothing except blinking RR Lock light in the dash.

 

[JohnMc]

I'm not sure if the ECU actually works like this or not, but 5 seconds of current isn't really out of the question based on the way the locker is supposed to work.

The motor doesn't directly engage anything, it just tensions a hefty 'clockspring'. And it's up to that hefty spring to eventually engage or disengage the locking collar on the diff. If the motor gets power for too long, it will simply overheat and die.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I'm not sure if the ECU actually works like this or not, but 5 seconds of current isn't really out of the question based on the way the locker is supposed to work.

The motor doesn't directly engage anything, it just tensions a hefty 'clockspring'. And it's up to that hefty spring to eventually engage or disengage the locking collar on the diff. If the motor gets power for too long, it will simply overheat and die.

Yeah, exactly.
I'm not sure what I said to imply I thought that was a problem. It makes perfect sense, and I believe it's working exactly how it should.

I'm only trying to figure out where the locker motor is fused from- it HAS to be fused.

 

[TheDurk]

The motor and the rest of the system is powered by the 20A 4WD fuse by the driver's knee that also powers the ADD system. The switch trigger power and power for the indicator lights comes off the GAUGE fuse. Exactly what that trigger power does within the RDL ECU we will never know, but it's a safe bet the motor is on the 4WD fuse. The motor is controlled by the limit switches, and gets power until they report a lock as far as I can tell. Here is the full '97 RDL EWD:

 

[kolelt]

The motor and the rest of the system is powered by the 20A 4WD fuse by the driver's knee that also powers the ADD system. The switch trigger power and power for the indicator lights comes off the GAUGE fuse. Exactly what that trigger power does within the RDL ECU we will never know, but it's a safe bet the motor is on the 4WD fuse. The motor is controlled by the limit switches, and gets power until they report a lock as far as I can tell. Here is the full '97 RDL EWD:

I though elocker is only 10A.

 

[TheDurk]

I though elocker is only 10A.

I'm just going by the factory EWD. Since it also powers the ADD (and TC actuator if pushbutton TC) on that 4WD fuse, if you were doing an add-on just for the Diff Lock, not factory, 10A might be enough. Where do you get 10A from?

 

[kolelt]

I'm just going by the factory EWD. Since it also powers the ADD (and TC actuator if pushbutton TC) on that 4WD fuse, if you were doing an add-on just for the Diff Lock, not factory, 10A might be enough. Where do you get 10A from?

I think you are right Durk. If you were doing just a add-on elocker without the Ecu it would be 10amp. And that's where I was going of.

 

[JWaldz]

Can confirm stand alone elocker without ECU (independently wired) is only 10A. Cus that's what I have on mine lol. Durk is probably right about the 20A as it also powers other 4WD related components.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Thanks for the help guys. I guess I was too tired and delirious last night, and I missed the 4WD fuse. That being said, my 4WD works fine, and the fuse is definitely good. Wish the locker had a separate fuse that went bad [emoji23][emoji24]
So- at the connector going to the diff- my "motor" wires don't have power at any time. I thought that was a problem, but since it's the limit switches that have power, I'm guessing they send a "signal" to the ECU, and it sends power to the motor.
If that's the case, the motor pins(in the connector) won't have power if the connector is un-plugged.
I put it together last night- thinking it would work after I fixed the magnet- without testing the motor on the bench first. I guess that's my next step. I can't imagine the motor being the issue, as it looked brand new inside the actuator/motor case. But it's gotta be something.
Next step is to pull it back out and bench test the motor.



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