E-locker help

[geohil]

Good Morning All
Trying to figure out what is going on with my e-locker. A couple months ago I limped my truck off TSF with a broken ring and pinion in the rear diff of my 4Runner. That was a very rough ride down as the diff broke itself to pieces. Since then I have had a reputable shop put Yukon 4.88's in get me back and running. As part of my break-in I was trying to get the diff to lock. The diff lock light on the dash flashes but never goes solid. Below are the steps I have done to check on the locker and wiring:
1. I have applied 5.5V directly to pin 2 and 3 in the plug on the locker and the locker does engage and disengage the locker.
2. I have run an ohm meter the length of all 7 wires from locker plug to 4wd ECU and have detected no breaks (the black one).
3. I have verified that the 4-wheel low safety is still grounded (grey wire mod).
4. I grounded the speed senor safety (eliminates the 5mph rule).

The locker still will not engage on its own. I cannot get the 4wd ECU to meet all of its conditions and send the 5.5V to the locker. That is where I need your help - what other safeties or conditions exist? Should I just replace the 4wd ECU, or am I missing something?

I'm happy to post wiring schematics if anyone needs them?

 

[geohil]

Additional Info- the locker itself seems to be working fine and will engage and lock the rear diff if I apply voltage directly to it. It seems to be the brain/ecu that is having the issues. When I press the lock button the ECU shuts off the ABS and the diff light on the dash starts blinking, but no matter what I do it won't complete the cycle and send the voltage to the locker itself. I've tried all sorts of maneuvering of the vehicle (forward, backward, 4wd high/low, neutral).
I even went so far as to run a long set of wire from the locker itself to the cab. If I apply voltage it will lock the diff while in motion and remain locked.

I put the vehicle up on jack-stands so I could move the rear tires all around to simulate slip. Still nothing.

 

[JohnMc]

Right off the bat, you ruled out the motor being bad - when my wife broke her ring gear and limped it out of the woods, it popped repeatedly and harshly, and knocked some of the magnets off the e-locker motor housing.

You also seem to have ruled out reassembly errors where the actuator is out of synch with the locker itself, since it works properly when directly powered.

How about the limit switches in the locker? I don't have a good wiring diagram, but the ECU relies on those to let it know when to go, which way to go. Perhaps one is stuck open or not closing?

 

[geohil]

Right off the bat, you ruled out the motor being bad - when my wife broke her ring gear and limped it out of the woods, it popped repeatedly and harshly, and knocked some of the magnets off the e-locker motor housing.

You also seem to have ruled out reassembly errors where the actuator is out of synch with the locker itself, since it works properly when directly powered.

How about the limit switches in the locker? I don't have a good wiring diagram, but the ECU relies on those to let it know when to go, which way to go. Perhaps one is stuck open or not closing?

That could well be it. Do you happen to know how the internal switch works? I assume it grounds out one of the two leads to the sensor?
Now that you mention it - the 3rd was dropped by me while installing and fractured the plug for the limit switch. Didn't even think if that it could have caused internally.

 

[Kotrin]

When I did my e-locker retro on my first 3rd gen 4runner I had to spent a few hours adjusting the limits with my diff cover open and spinning the tires. I can provide a drawing if you want but I feel that you need to drain the fluid and run the motor and limits and adjust it. If you disable the limits you can run the motor for awhile and it will move the 'lock part' a long ways. During my retro I did a lot of adjusting on my e-locker motor DUE to it NOT engaging exactly like you are describing. Now I had set mine up with ice cube relays and such (since my 4runner didn't have it and I wanted to be able to engage the locker regardless of any safe guardings). My recommendation is to disable the limits and run the motor, BUT it's best done when you drain the fluid and remove the diff cover and can see inside.

Here is a picture/example of what i'm talking about.

 

[Kotrin]

Biopsy of a Toyota e-Locker Swap: Off-Road.com

Here is a link to an article that can help you. Let me know if you need more assistance. I live in Oregon and would/can provide a hand if interested but it wouldn't be till next week...

 

[geohil]

When I did my e-locker retro on my first 3rd gen 4runner I had to spent a few hours adjusting the limits with my diff cover open and spinning the tires. I can provide a drawing if you want but I feel that you need to drain the fluid and run the motor and limits and adjust it. If you disable the limits you can run the motor for awhile and it will move the 'lock part' a long ways. During my retro I did a lot of adjusting on my e-locker motor DUE to it NOT engaging exactly like you are describing. Now I had set mine up with ice cube relays and such (since my 4runner didn't have it and I wanted to be able to engage the locker regardless of any safe guardings). My recommendation is to disable the limits and run the motor, BUT it's best done when you drain the fluid and remove the diff cover and can see inside.

Here is a picture/example of what i'm talking about.
View attachment 248682

So I need to pull the whole 3rd out again? Took me twice just to get it to seal properly last time and not leak...so I'm apprehensive. But if that is what is needed I'll give it a go. I'm not certain what/how to adjust so I'll spend some time reading the article you linked.

Thanks

 

[Kotrin]

So I need to pull the whole 3rd out again? Took me twice just to get it to seal properly last time and not leak...so I'm apprehensive. But if that is what is needed I'll give it a go. I'm not certain what/how to adjust so I'll spend some time reading the article you linked.

Thanks

You don't need to pull the third member, or shouldn't need to. I did my adjustments with just my cover off the rear and lots of trial and error on jack stands. I don't know if that makes sense but you can also do it WITHOUT removing the cover and up on jack stands. I know when I did my custom setup with the relays, I could do some interesting things with my locker and run it with my limits changed. Essentially you need to get the fork moved into a proper position and once there, THEN set the limits. I fully expect you can do this with just jacking up the 4 wheels and engage/pushing the motor with no limits and slowly spinning the tires. Let me know what you decide to do. I wish I had taken pictures of what I had to do 8 years ago but didn't think of it as not a lot of articles and my setup was..unique

 

[geohil]

You don't need to pull the third member, or shouldn't need to. I did my adjustments with just my cover off the rear and lots of trial and error on jack stands. I don't know if that makes sense but you can also do it WITHOUT removing the cover and up on jack stands. I know when I did my custom setup with the relays, I could do some interesting things with my locker and run it with my limits changed. Essentially you need to get the fork moved into a proper position and once there, THEN set the limits. I fully expect you can do this with just jacking up the 4 wheels and engage/pushing the motor with no limits and slowly spinning the tires. Let me know what you decide to do. I wish I had taken pictures of what I had to do 8 years ago but didn't think of it as not a lot of articles and my setup was..unique

Not sure if I have a different diff - but there isn't a cover on mine. Only way to access internal is to disconnect the driveshaft and pull the third from the front.
May have found something that may exclude the limit switch anyway. Last night I set my rig in 4-Low in gravel and hit the diff lock switch. I went forward and backward and turned and did everything I could to get the diff to engage. No dice the diff lock light kept flashing.
So using the long wires I hooked to pin 2 and 3 at the locker I applied 5.5v and locked the diff while driving. The diff lock light went solid and the locker was engaged.
So my question about the limit switch is if it were faulty or out of adjustment would it have known enough to send the ECU the signal to turn the diff light solid (as it should when it is engaged)?

 

[Kotrin]

Not sure if I have a different diff - but there isn't a cover on mine. Only way to access internal is to disconnect the driveshaft and pull the third from the front.
May have found something that may exclude the limit switch anyway. Last night I set my rig in 4-Low in gravel and hit the diff lock switch. I went forward and backward and turned and did everything I could to get the diff to engage. No dice the diff lock light kept flashing.
So using the long wires I hooked to pin 2 and 3 at the locker I applied 5.5v and locked the diff while driving. The diff lock light went solid and the locker was engaged.
So my question about the limit switch is if it were faulty or out of adjustment would it have known enough to send the ECU the signal to turn the diff light solid (as it should when it is engaged)?

It should, but i'm by no means the ones who engineered the design. You can test the switch but requires that you, once again take things apart. But the only way to test the limit switch is to run the motor one direction till max(be careful as you can fry the motor, why I recommend the cover removed to see everything). Another option you can do is remove the diff lock indicator switch and see where the parts are (yes difficult to see). I know you can remove the electric motor itself and run it, test limits that way. Limits do fail, but very rare as its just a switch.

So back on track, do you have the FSM for your truck? Here is a insert from the detail on what I'm referencing. I used this when doing my adjustments. You can use a meter and test the limits on the switch when running the motor. I do know (and yes I referenced this more than once..) that personally I had to do lots of motor movements to get my limits to work. Wish I could be more of an assistance. When you mentioned that you had problems with the sealing when it was installed, which seal was it? I've done a dozen or more and haven't had a problem but want to make sure I keep an eye out for it for future installation.

I also need to apologize, I keep forgetting the third member comes out and the back is sealed. I keep thinking of the jeep's and other axles. I always end up pulling the third member out of the 4Runner or the pick-up and put it on a bench. I haven't had sealing problems ever personally but i've messed up a few seals and had to clean/reinstall some
View attachment Pages from Complete 4Runner Service Manual 1996-2002.pdf

 

[ajordan1975]

I have a dash button and the locker computer if you need them for a small fee and shipping.

 

[geohil]

I have a dash button and the locker computer if you need them for a small fee and shipping.

Thanks for the offer - I scored an extra button and 4wd ECU yesterday from a local junk yard. What I may be needing soon is the limit switch sensor that actually goes on the diff. We shall see.

 

[psraff]

Good Lord..... reading threads like this reminds me that I have so much more to learn..... LOL

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