So I have a unique problem. I know there are lots of write-ups on here about wiring up an E-locker for a 4runner that didn't come factory with one. None of them have info on what wires do what. I am trying to find a diagram that shows what wires to power to activate the actuator to lock the diff. I am trying to remove the 3rd member and have tried everything to remove the e-locker to do it manually but have been unsuccessful so far. I thought I could just hotwire the elocker to lock it it and then be able to pull the 3rd member out without having to remove the e-locker.
E-locker Wiring
- Thread starter kc9rzj
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redshift83
New member
Sonoran steel's page has a decent write-up which you may have seen, but the images show the factory wiring diagram which shows which wires control the locker motor.
Retrofit Electric Locker
The problem i think is that when the locker motor is in locked or unlocked position it is cut off from functioning until the proper wiring is connected for the direction it expects to go (i.e. locked -> unlocked) This keeps the motor from over-traveling or running while stalled and reduces the chance of things being damaged over time.
There's also another write-up here that describes how to test the locker motor and this may help you get things moving:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...r-troubleshooting-|-bigfishallday-quoted.html
This got mine moving without any issues. It may also be possible that your motor is seized and thus will not move without some help. I am not sure the best method to get things moving in that case, but it may be removing the gear cover and manually actuating the locker. You could also remove the motor "can" and move it but be aware that you will have to re-seat the motor brushes which wasn't super easy unfortunately.
Retrofit Electric Locker
The problem i think is that when the locker motor is in locked or unlocked position it is cut off from functioning until the proper wiring is connected for the direction it expects to go (i.e. locked -> unlocked) This keeps the motor from over-traveling or running while stalled and reduces the chance of things being damaged over time.
There's also another write-up here that describes how to test the locker motor and this may help you get things moving:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...r-troubleshooting-|-bigfishallday-quoted.html
This got mine moving without any issues. It may also be possible that your motor is seized and thus will not move without some help. I am not sure the best method to get things moving in that case, but it may be removing the gear cover and manually actuating the locker. You could also remove the motor "can" and move it but be aware that you will have to re-seat the motor brushes which wasn't super easy unfortunately.
Technoplasm
New member
I'm just gonna drop in and say that buying the 12voltguy locker harness was the best decision i ever made.
nevada
Senior Member
im slightly confused. why does it need to be locked to remove the 3rd?
nevada
Senior Member
but, to answer the question, its the 2 green wires. they maybe be striped, I don't remember. but they are the 2 heavier gauge wires coming from the motor.
run 12v to one and ground the other, the motor will spin one direction. reverse the wire connections, and the motor will go the other way.
run 12v to one and ground the other, the motor will spin one direction. reverse the wire connections, and the motor will go the other way.
I just went through this...I could not figure it out and ended up running a new wire to ecu harness. I left all the wires from the ECU to the dash, and re-pinned the connector back to the diff.
69th Street Garage: Pre-wired Elocker Wiring for 3rd Gen 4Runner - Part 1
I have a diagram towards the bottom on how I wired it.
69th Street Garage: Pre-wired Elocker Wiring for 3rd Gen 4Runner - Part 1
I have a diagram towards the bottom on how I wired it.
thezentree
Senior Member
This. It’ll come out of the housing in either position as long as you pull the axle shafts. It will also go back in in either position, which really sucks if your 12voltguy harness hasn’t showed up yet and you realize it after you’ve buttoned it all back up and put tools away. Not that I would know that from personal experience or anything...
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agree....you have to pull the axels regardless if a locker or not rear end
