Easiest skidplates for oil changes?

unsub1

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I've searched and searched this forum and others but I'm curious to hear if any skidplate owners are particularly happy with their oil change situation. Sounds like some of the aluminum skid oil change panels can get destroyed pretty easily.

I don't have my heart set on any particular brand but I'm tired of having to turn around on NM and CO dirt roads when things get a little hairy. I'm not rock crawling and am only a little bit discouraged by overall weight but this ease of oil change issue and oil-change-panel durability is fairly important to me. Want to avoid the dealers as much as possible.

FYI: I'm looking closely at RCI, BudBuilt, Shrockworks, etc.

Thanks!
 
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I can't say it's "the best" but I have the RCI in raw aluminum and it is great. Good skidplate, and the oil change door is a slick idea and makes changes easy. I can see how if you take a hard hit right on the door, it might deform though, but I would assume any skid with a "door" in it would have the same possibility of deformation on hard impact. So far I've used it reasonably aggressively and it's held up fine.

Best two pics of it I have:

IMG_1531-XL.jpg


DSC_0017-XL.jpg
 
Yeah, definitely very familiar with the aluminum RCI plates. They look great and the weight is very attractive. Just concerned about the durability and ease of sliding over things mostly.
 
Yeah, definitely very familiar with the aluminum RCI plates. They look great and the weight is very attractive. Just concerned about the durability and ease of sliding over things mostly.

i like my RCI plates. Its easy to install, its integrated, well thought out, and they seem to always try to improve the design of their plates.

As for the door to access the filter, I don't think its any more prone to damage than any of the other manufactures, also the location of the door depends on whether or not you have kdss and when you bought the plates.

Also, the pricing on their plates are pretty reasonable and they always hold group buys and sales on this forum so watch for those.

Basically, you cant go wrong with RCI. Only con about them, is they don't have as much protection as some of the other manufactures towards the A arms (to cover that big alignment bolt). Of course, you can fix that with RCI a-arm skids, which is what I did.
 
Bud Built

I have Buds steel skid for the engine and transmission and aluminum for the transfer case and gas. I installed the Fumuto valve and it works perfectly. My skids have dents and scratches and the oil door is still like new even after taking impacts directly to it. In my experience the steel is the only way to go for the engine skid as it takes lots of hits. The KDSS does restrict ground clearance and I hit everything before my lift and that was the cause of most of my dents.
 
I have Buds steel skid for the engine and transmission and aluminum for the transfer case and gas. I installed the Fumuto valve and it works perfectly. My skids have dents and scratches and the oil door is still like new even after taking impacts directly to it. In my experience the steel is the only way to go for the engine skid as it takes lots of hits. The KDSS does restrict ground clearance and I hit everything before my lift and that was the cause of most of my dents.

Right, so this is why I'm leaning towards steel, even if the lighter version. A lift isn't in the cards for me (as a carport dweller) and I just want to leave a little more room for error.

And you also touched upon a huge question I've had with all brands which is about the ability to mix and match steel/aluminum skids from the same brand. That seems really smart.
 
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That's where I was leaning. Which ones did you get and any other input on them?
Steel. My Bud's were my 2nd set of aftermarket skid plates, so I did a lot of research in hopes of not buying a 3rd set. I have had to do a bit of gusseting and repairs to the transfer plate, but I am overall very happy with them.

Bud's have a square steel piece in that area that transfers load from the front skid to the frame cross member, preventing cratered skid plate/oil change doors, which I have seen on other skid plates.

ETA: pic of what I'm talking about
8-23-2014%207-23-11%20PM.png
 
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First off. I wheel my 4r pretty hard. Front skids have some hits.. but really nothing much to speak of... Gas tank skid on the other hand looks like it has been use as a bomb shield. All the steal brackets bent so I had to make new 1/4" ones...

For the oil changes.. I just drop the front skid. Takes me 5 minutes max and that way there is 0 oil on top of the skid. and access is better that way.

The aluminum skids are so much easier to handle.... Plenty strong also if built right. I prefer them over steel for the 5th gen.

I did have issues with the trans skid deforming because of the long span...and had to gusset it so that it would hold it's shape when it does hit (which is pretty rare).

Once you learn to pick lines.. the front plate sees very little action. Still need it though because of the surprises that you did not see..

I hear people talk about steel sliding over things easier.. There may be a slight advantage there with steel vs aluminum. But if there is. it is impossible to detect. Once you are heavily weighted on rock.. you are not sliding over it no matter what the material is. I notice no major difference between the two. Once you are on the skids... you are not typically moving without some assist to gain clearance or a change in direction.
 
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Another vote for RCI aluminum skids. Run them on both 4runners. They are scraped up and tweaked a little but overall they've held up well. The door makes oil filter changes mess free.
 
On my RCI aluminum I just open the door and drop the entire cartridge straight down without draining it.....crack it loose and let it drip into the catch pan, then unscrew and drop=no oil on the skids.
 
I have the RCI aluminum skids and did not buy them for easy oil changes. I have never used the access door cuz It's just 4 bolts to drop the skid.
 

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