teotwaki
Senior Member
Any pictures of how the A-Arm skids offer any protection to the big alignment bolts?
Easiest skidplates for oil changes?
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Any pictures of how the A-Arm skids offer any protection to the big alignment bolts?
mrblah
Senior Member
https://www.rcimetalworks.com/10-18-4Runner-A-arm-Skids-T4R-10-13-06.htm
just check out the manufacture's website. I don't have close up shots of it on my rig atm.
Honestly though, not sure if protecting the bolts is worth doing or not, but the a-arm skids do cover the majority of it.
4runner_RN
New member
I got RCI aluminum about a week ago. makes oil changes easy. Add the fumoto valve that people mentioned and you'll be set
coltm4
New member
Yes. I have aluminum everything except the transfer case skid for the same reason [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] complains. I noticed the span for the transmission skid is too long and the steel transfer case skid gives the transmission skid a little more support. It works well and adds minimal weight penalty compared to the other skids. The dull gray is the steel covered in zinc rich primer. [MENTION=6100]teotwaki[/MENTION]
MeefZah
New member
That's what i do, too.
FreshYoungDude
New member
good info in here, thanks guys
Agreed.
So, I went all-out on the RCI group buy first thing this morning, so done deal.
Thanks, y'all!
DesertCanyons
New member
RCI skid plates
good choice. That's what I did a couple of months ago. For the install a floor jack can be helpful, or a lot of wood blocks to raise it up close to the frame. There's less holding it in place while you find the bolt holes.
I had lifted my suspension so I had more room to work. I suppose you could jack it and use jack stands or put all four wheels on four 4x8 or 6x8 blocks with the wheels well chocked. Do it right or don't try. Safety first.
There's a definite trick to installing the crossbar. You have to lift it straight up slowly, equally at both ends, or one side will bind on the frame. I used a bunch of wood planks and blocks of various thicknesses to raise it slowly. A couple of thin shims in the end to get it tight, IIRC. I got the bolts in and then removed the blocks and lifted it tight with the floor jack, per the instructions. One or two cylinder jacks could work too.
The gas tank skid is the hardest to get in place. It's heavy. I balanced mine on a floor jack, starting with a few blocks at each corner. The inside front corner hanger is very hard to get the lower bolt started.
Good luck.
good choice. That's what I did a couple of months ago. For the install a floor jack can be helpful, or a lot of wood blocks to raise it up close to the frame. There's less holding it in place while you find the bolt holes.
I had lifted my suspension so I had more room to work. I suppose you could jack it and use jack stands or put all four wheels on four 4x8 or 6x8 blocks with the wheels well chocked. Do it right or don't try. Safety first.
There's a definite trick to installing the crossbar. You have to lift it straight up slowly, equally at both ends, or one side will bind on the frame. I used a bunch of wood planks and blocks of various thicknesses to raise it slowly. A couple of thin shims in the end to get it tight, IIRC. I got the bolts in and then removed the blocks and lifted it tight with the floor jack, per the instructions. One or two cylinder jacks could work too.
The gas tank skid is the hardest to get in place. It's heavy. I balanced mine on a floor jack, starting with a few blocks at each corner. The inside front corner hanger is very hard to get the lower bolt started.
Good luck.
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Good advice! I have a new neighbor up the street who drives a Land Cruiser and has a lifted Jeep in the garage. He's offered all of his specialized tools. I have a ton of stuff but stoked to have access to all of his jack/lift stuff. Will definitely take the safe route.
I wonder how long all the RCI stuff will take to get here. Tried to order as early as possible.
I wonder how long all the RCI stuff will take to get here. Tried to order as early as possible.
tral
New member
Just did my first change at 50K myself for a couple reasons: 1) tired of telling the dealership that they didn't do it (had proof) and 2) I wanted to make sure the good stuff was used as it has 50K and plan to keep it a while.
I installed a Fumoto valve so dropped the mid skid (budbuilt) to make sure I could get it done correctly. Moving forward to the door/ hatch, there is plenty of room. To get the cartridge filter off, you'll need a 12" extension to make sure you have enough leverage to get it lose and removed. Those things are a mess regardless of the skid you buy. I don't think you are going to find one that is better then the other in that dept.
I chose Buds because he is in NC and so am I.
:cheers:
I installed a Fumoto valve so dropped the mid skid (budbuilt) to make sure I could get it done correctly. Moving forward to the door/ hatch, there is plenty of room. To get the cartridge filter off, you'll need a 12" extension to make sure you have enough leverage to get it lose and removed. Those things are a mess regardless of the skid you buy. I don't think you are going to find one that is better then the other in that dept.
I chose Buds because he is in NC and so am I.
:cheers:
DesertCanyons
New member
Before installing the skid plates
I really like that area around Boone and Ashville too. We visited a few years ago and stayed in a log cabin in Waynesville. Spent a few days in Smoky Mountain NP.
When I got my RCI skids in I was not in a hurry to install them. I didn't have a trip planned for a few weeks and I was about to install the lift. So I painted my powder coated skids with Rustoleum paint using a brush and can of black paint. It goes pretty quickly. I painted both sides with at least two coats.
Before I installed them I also did a gear oil change on the front and rear differentials and the transfer case. I also changed the engine oil and installed a Baxter Performance remote oil filter. I recommend the spin off filter below the engine if you do this. It's much easier to install and it fits above the RCI skids. No AN-10 hoses either.
Here's a link. Look at the applications page to get the right part number for the T4R.
https://www.bpadapters.com/applications.html
There are choices for a spin on adapter or a remote oil filter. Either one works on the T4R. For the remote oil filter mounted up in the engine bay there are choices for the number of ports and which side of the adapter the ports are on. If you're not sure which side you'll be able to mount remote oil filter hoses to get the multi-port version with two pairs of ports. For the remote filter mount you'll be running AN-10 hoses with matching fittings. With KDSS the best place for the filter is up over the driver's side wheel well. Otherwise you can put it down below the battery. There are original threaded nuts welded all over the inside of the engine bay on the body work where you can mount stuff. The nut size is 8 mm. It's 1.25 pitch I believe.
Everything you need to know about AN-10 hoses and fittings is here:
AN Hose and Fitting Guide - by Speedflow Shop for the AN-10 hoses and fittings on Amazon to see lots of options.
AN Hose and Fitting Guide - by Speedflow
I really like that area around Boone and Ashville too. We visited a few years ago and stayed in a log cabin in Waynesville. Spent a few days in Smoky Mountain NP.
When I got my RCI skids in I was not in a hurry to install them. I didn't have a trip planned for a few weeks and I was about to install the lift. So I painted my powder coated skids with Rustoleum paint using a brush and can of black paint. It goes pretty quickly. I painted both sides with at least two coats.
Before I installed them I also did a gear oil change on the front and rear differentials and the transfer case. I also changed the engine oil and installed a Baxter Performance remote oil filter. I recommend the spin off filter below the engine if you do this. It's much easier to install and it fits above the RCI skids. No AN-10 hoses either.
Here's a link. Look at the applications page to get the right part number for the T4R.
https://www.bpadapters.com/applications.html
There are choices for a spin on adapter or a remote oil filter. Either one works on the T4R. For the remote oil filter mounted up in the engine bay there are choices for the number of ports and which side of the adapter the ports are on. If you're not sure which side you'll be able to mount remote oil filter hoses to get the multi-port version with two pairs of ports. For the remote filter mount you'll be running AN-10 hoses with matching fittings. With KDSS the best place for the filter is up over the driver's side wheel well. Otherwise you can put it down below the battery. There are original threaded nuts welded all over the inside of the engine bay on the body work where you can mount stuff. The nut size is 8 mm. It's 1.25 pitch I believe.
Everything you need to know about AN-10 hoses and fittings is here:
AN Hose and Fitting Guide - by Speedflow Shop for the AN-10 hoses and fittings on Amazon to see lots of options.
AN Hose and Fitting Guide - by Speedflow
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DesertCanyons
New member
Remote vs spin off filter
The convenience of a spin off filter that is not inside of a canister is very useful.
In hindsight I would have installed the spin off filter below the engine. The remote filter was so much work to fab the mount and build the hoses. Then one of the hoses leaked. I just bought pre-fab hoses to replace the ones I made to fix it. There's a potential for failure of a hose out on the road or off-roading, where you'd be stuck with no way to fix it. Look at that link on AN-10 hoses to see what it takes to make a hose. You need a vice with the hose clamp grips like the ones they show. Fitting the pieces on the hose is hard. The repair would be the same. And by the time you realized it was leaking you could be low on oil.
The convenience of a spin off filter that is not inside of a canister is very useful.
In hindsight I would have installed the spin off filter below the engine. The remote filter was so much work to fab the mount and build the hoses. Then one of the hoses leaked. I just bought pre-fab hoses to replace the ones I made to fix it. There's a potential for failure of a hose out on the road or off-roading, where you'd be stuck with no way to fix it. Look at that link on AN-10 hoses to see what it takes to make a hose. You need a vice with the hose clamp grips like the ones they show. Fitting the pieces on the hose is hard. The repair would be the same. And by the time you realized it was leaking you could be low on oil.
I'm definitely going to do the spin-on filter adapter. Thanks for that!
Which filter are you using exactly?
DesertCanyons
New member
Mobil 1 #209A Extended Life filter. The filter part number was listed in the Baxter Performance instructions that came with it.
The Mobil 1 210 filter also fits. It's shorter and fatter but has the same gasket diameter - to fit the adapter. It will fit higher above the skid plate. When you get the Baxter adapter go to your favorite Auto Parts store and search for a filter that mates up to the gasket seal.
Someone else here was using a Fram filter.
DesertCanyons
New member
Baxter spin-off filter
You mean removing the spin-off filter?
Look for a thread on the canister or metal canister option here from a couple of weeks ago. One guy showed us the Baxter spin-off filter in place of the Toyota canister. He swore it was easy to change the filter and the Fram filter fit above his RCI skid plate.
You mean removing the spin-off filter?
Look for a thread on the canister or metal canister option here from a couple of weeks ago. One guy showed us the Baxter spin-off filter in place of the Toyota canister. He swore it was easy to change the filter and the Fram filter fit above his RCI skid plate.
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