Easiest Way of Deteriming Diff Gearing Ratio

Any reason you guys wanting a locker don't go with something like a Detroit TrueTrac? I put one in mine 15+ years ago and it has worked very well. I don't do any crazy off roading but for what I'd consider reasonable it's worked great on and off road.
 
An issue with a limited slip style differential is that it requires wheelspin to send torque to the other side. Without any wheelspin, very little transfer of torque to the tire with traction.

And depending on your situation, wheelspin might not be a good idea. Of course, it's the unweighted tire, but it could still be doing some vehicle placement work (i.e. stopping it from sliding sideways).

A locker keeps both wheels locked together, no independent wheel spinning, better for maintaining traction on both wheels.

Certainly better than an open diff, of course, better to be spinning an unweighted wheel and making smoke and forward progress than just spinning an unweighted wheel and making smoke.
 
Mine seems to lock up pretty good. The Truetrac is gear driven so that helps I think. Leaves 11s on the pavement if I'm lighting them up and will pull the truck out of a mess when one wheel spins (to your point).

For serious off roading not as good as a straight up locker, but again for anything else it's a lot simpler than trying to swap in a locker and works pretty dang good IMO.
 
An issue with a limited slip style differential is that it requires wheelspin to send torque to the other side.
Depends on the style of limited slip. Kinda moot, since there is only a gear-type LSD available (and lunchbox lockers, which are a bit more crude).

A TrueTrac (and all other helical LSDs) multiply torque between the outputs, so they (basically) don't work when a wheel lifts. They are great otherwise because they don't require special fluid (as opposed to clutch type), don't wear out (as opposed to viscous or clutch type) and are always 'on' (as opposed to a selectable locker) and are totally smooth in operation (as opposed to a ratcheting/lunchbox locker).

Each type has its plusses and minuses.

-Charlie
 
That's true, they're not fully locked, but applying a bit of brake will transfer torque to accomplish what we're looking for...traction.

It's why I went the Truetrac direction rather than trying to find a Elocker. I also had a Lockrite in a 1997 Tocoma and it was awful with the clickity clack in turns. I actually had people approach me in parking lots to tell me my diff was broken. Had a 1999 with an Elocker as well and honestly I prefer the Truetrac.

Sorry it's Jeep but they work pretty good and are a simple upgrade for us.

DETROIT TRUETRAC TEST #2 WHEELER LAKE COLORADO - YouTube

Anyway it's a good option for someone not rock crawling IMO.
 
Just so we are clear, I have a helical rear diff on my Alltrac Camry and I my 'ideal' 4Runner build would have F+R TrueTracs...

-Charlie

The Truetrac locks up pretty good. Turning out of parking lots and what not I can feel it biting on the inside tire. I'm not sure how it'd do in the front. If acceptable for turning I'd be all over that as well, but with the clamshell style front diff on the 4Runner not a lot of options last time I checked?

Edit: NM, some quick checking seems this is pretty common now. I've had my 4Runner so long and have researched so many different things I forget half of what I looked in to at one time.
 
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