I want to share what I have found to be the easiest way to snake a power cable from the engine compartment to the rear of the truck. I was able to pry from the bottom of the AC/12V panel to loosen it. Pull from the bottom because there are tab on top of the panel that can be broken off. From there I was able to use a coat hanger and snake the cable through the right passenger wheel well panel instead off taking the whole thing off. If you are wondering, you do not have enough room to unscrew the second screw holding the top tray to remove it.
Easy access rear power panel.
- Thread starter Johncmng
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
teotwaki
Senior Member
That's a good way to get one set of cables through. :high5:
I ran multiple cables for power and two way radios so I did end up pulling the wheel well cover off after fighting things for a bit. Pulling all of those cables through was not working for me :noidea: I didn't want the power cables to be allowed to chafe against any sharp edges as the truck bounced around off-road. Now the cables are all ty-wrapped securely to the body of the truck.
Here is what my modified power panel looks like now.
The DC power comes from my second battery and is always on. I changed the Engel fridge from a cig lighter plug to a Power Pole connector which makes far better electrical contact and does not easily come loose.
I ran multiple cables for power and two way radios so I did end up pulling the wheel well cover off after fighting things for a bit. Pulling all of those cables through was not working for me :noidea: I didn't want the power cables to be allowed to chafe against any sharp edges as the truck bounced around off-road. Now the cables are all ty-wrapped securely to the body of the truck.
Here is what my modified power panel looks like now.
The DC power comes from my second battery and is always on. I changed the Engel fridge from a cig lighter plug to a Power Pole connector which makes far better electrical contact and does not easily come loose.
sn_85
Senior Member
You can if you use a stubby philips head screwdriver or a reach and access tool. That's how I removed my top tray.
That's a good way to get one set of cables through. :high5:
I ran multiple cables for power and two way radios so I did end up pulling the wheel well cover off after fighting things for a bit. Pulling all of those cables through was not working for me :noidea: I didn't want the power cables to be allowed to chafe against any sharp edges as the truck bounced around off-road. Now the cables are all ty-wrapped securely to the body of the truck.
Here is what my modified power panel looks like now.
The DC power comes from my second battery and is always on. I changed the Engel fridge from a cig lighter plug to a Power Pole connector which makes far better electrical contact and does not easily come loose.
Where did you bought the bottom right plug, with 2 sets of power poles?
Also, what size, and how did you run your cables? Initially I was planning on running a 2GA welding cable from my secondary battery to the back of the truck, along the frame,, find a way in, and add sn Inverter between the rear window and the Molle panel. I came to realize that I'll probably never need more than 400 Watts so I just did the 400 Watts Anytime mod on Friday, and a second 110V outlet as I hate the location of the stock one, and alreadh broke the cover once.Seeing your picture, I think I'm going to run a cable inside the vehicle thru the firewall, then run it along the door seals and tie it to the other cable that's there for support. Either get a ground on the frame, tap somewhere for a ground of use one of the OEM inverters mounting bolts. 2GA is probably overkill but I tend to overengineer and that should be enough if I decide I'll need an Inverter later on or become a whale hunter and need a bigger freezer to keep my catch..
I would use a circuit breaker at the battery, this way if the cable gets shorted for whatever reason, it will trip it and no fireworks..
I like these: Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Circuit Breaker https://a.co/d/bYmFs65
Last edited:
That's a good way to get one set of cables through. :high5:
I ran multiple cables for power and two way radios so I did end up pulling the wheel well cover off after fighting things for a bit. Pulling all of those cables through was not working for me :noidea: I didn't want the power cables to be allowed to chafe against any sharp edges as the truck bounced around off-road. Now the cables are all ty-wrapped securely to the body of the truck.
Here is what my modified power panel looks like now.
The DC power comes from my second battery and is always on. I changed the Engel fridge from a cig lighter plug to a Power Pole connector which makes far better electrical contact and does not easily come loose.
This is my current set up, but I'd love to replace the cigarette lighter plug to the Pole Connector you have, as I'm using plot connectors for my Diesel Heater and this would give me the option of running it 20 ft further to the back of the vehicle as well as the front. Using 20 ft of 8GA silicone cable for it, also need to change the cables to silicone on my air compressor.
And, thank you for posting and finding these things.
