Ebay 5vz-fe Turbo

I see a lot of broken exhaust manifolds in the future.

I see no point in a after market turbo system. This will only increase the chances of something braking, and leaving you stranded in BFE. I didn't buy my truck to tow or top speed.

I'd do a V8 swap before this.

I have done the V8 swap, and I absolutely love it. My TAco on the other hand. While empty, It halls ass. But with it full of debris, it is a dog.

I thought about regearing with lockers... The turbo seams nice.



My question is Engine management. It looks like this turbo might generate 20 to 30 psi. What would be needed to fuel wise to be compatible.
 
Doesn't look bad for the price. AR ratios are small so spool should be ok.

What's with the dual bolt pattern on the turbo flange? It looks like they started drilling for both t3 and t4 patterns on the short sides then screwed up on the long sides :noidea:

AC hose looks pretty close to the manifold,needs heat wrap and possibly a shield for the starter.

Repeating what [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] said,reinforce/brace the turbo flange some more and go over the welds. They may look pretty but it's probably done by a kid in a 3rd world country sweat shop.

My question is Engine management. It looks like this turbo might generate 20 to 30 psi. What would be needed to fuel wise to be compatible.

The wastegate is at 8 psi,no need to worry about boosting in the 20s,besides by then you'll breaking other parts LOL
But let's say you wanted to up the boost and make a bunch of power,other than beefing up the engine and transmission:
Higher capacity fuel pump(s)
Larger fuel injectors
Fuel pressure regulator
Standalone engine management
 
BTW if you go to the seller's eBay store (search keyword "Tacoma") the parts are available seperately. Manifolds + crossover for $429,another $110 gets you the downpipe and wastegate dump tube
 
Looks kinda cool to me. I might have been tempted to try it out if, A) I didnt just buy a new supercharger and 7th injector and , B) I didnt tow my camper. Like others said, these engines werent made to rev to the moon, as fun as that my be. (Still being a Honda guy tho, 8-9k rpms still sounds nice :) ) I need all that low end power and the supercharger at 7psi does just that. I'll have to find me another 4Runner or Tacoma and try it.
 
I see a lot of broken exhaust manifolds in the future.

I see no point in a after market turbo system. This will only increase the chances of something braking, and leaving you stranded in BFE. I didn't buy my truck to tow or top speed.

I'd do a V8 swap before this.

You're comparing apples to oranges with a V8 swap. Off roading increases chances of breaking, towing increases your chances of breaking, etc. man up, Nancy.
 
You're comparing apples to oranges with a V8 swap. Off roading increases chances of breaking, towing increases your chances of breaking, etc. man up, Nancy.

No, all HP increase will reduce reliability. The only way to do this properly is to do a complete motor tear down. Rods, low compression pistons, valves, valve springs, the list goes on..... So Nancy man up and do it right. Slapping a turbo on any motor and thinking it's going to make reliable power is just ignorant. I'll take the reliability of a factory V6.
 
this looks great. I've been waiting to see piping done up for this motor. I'd like to see a twin turbo application though. I think two small turbo's on this motor would be interesting. Ford ecoboost style.

and ^ turbo motor's can be very reliable. I am about too roller over 100,000km on my after market turbod car. maintenance = reliability.
 
i would think that if a small, quick spooling turbo was used and boost was kept very low, at or even below 5psi, reliability wouldn't suffer in the least. these motors wear like diesels and live just fine under superchargers at close to 10psi.
 
Plus, wasnt our 3.4 built with a degree of boost in mind? I dont know when the TRD supercharger was first built for our motor, but I know you could get it as a factory option. I would prefer to rebuild my top end before ever adding boost, but there are many practical uses for more power with our trucks that dont involve high psi or a lead foot or drag strip racing. Again Im looking for more hp simply to be able to drive up a hill on the highway without going in to 3rd gear.
 
Plus, wasnt our 3.4 built with a degree of boost in mind? I dont know when the TRD supercharger was first built for our motor, but I know you could get it as a factory option. I would prefer to rebuild my top end before ever adding boost, but there are many practical uses for more power with our trucks that dont involve high psi or a lead foot or drag strip racing. Again Im looking for more hp simply to be able to drive up a hill on the highway without going in to 3rd gear.

It was never a factory option. They were a dealer installed option.
 
It was never a factory option. They were a dealer installed option.

I think the point was that a supercharger option from Toyota (TRD) exists, and that these motors have held up just fine. I would venture to say that making 7psi via turbo, rather than the TRD roots blower, would probably be much easier on the motor (less parasitic drag). However, I think if you were to turn the boost way up, then yeah, you run the risk of significant reliability reduction. But that applies with superchargers too.
 
It was never a factory option. They were a dealer installed option.

That makes sense. My thought was simply that Toyota was producing the TRD supercharger for the 5VZ-FE while it was still in production. So I dont know if it's safe to say the 3.4 was designed for boost, but it seems at least it is capable of handling it safely up to what, 7 or 8 psi.
 
Standalone EMS to control the tuning, megasquirt or AEM. This looks very promising, I would through that fake ebay turbo away and use a good turbo like a real gt35r garret which is a big turbo but thats what you need to make good power, if you want low boost run the SC. Wonder how much he would take off the price without the turbo. I also dont like the manifold is for a t4, which is was a t3 mount.

This is pretty much what Addicted did and these guys beat them too the punch on a kit they can sell. If it was me I would go standalone, good turbo, large fuel system to hand E85 and would run some good boost. Problem with running say more than 12psi is the stock head bolts and head gasket would just fail. Need after market studs and multilayer metal head gaskets. I would also reweld every weld on that exhaust manifold and would also better support the turbo so less weight is on that manifold so it dont crack.

I really want to buy this kit!!


Stand alone is the way to go but if you've ever run mega squirt its a *****. You know it'll be hard to find a map for this motor. So either you've gotta know wtf your doin. Or pay out the arse for someone to tune it.
As far as the turbo we've (Volvo community) have been running cx racing turbos for years. Anywhere from 10 pounds on a stock motor to 30 pounds on some built sh*t. They are throw always. So some you can get years out of some you get month. But I can't argue. They will not compare to a rear garret. Another big thing with cx turbos is they oil line is not restricted. So you gotta take care of that. With our motor and with most I wouldn't trust the rods.
 
Why would you use a stand alone system.

I think a piggy back system like the AEM. It should be able to keep you OBD inspection compliant and easy to tune.

The question is - Does it autotune itself using a wide band O2 meter?
 
Stand alone is the way to go but if you've ever run mega squirt its a *****. You know it'll be hard to find a map for this motor. So either you've gotta know wtf your doin. Or pay out the arse for someone to tune it.
As far as the turbo we've (Volvo community) have been running cx racing turbos for years. Anywhere from 10 pounds on a stock motor to 30 pounds on some built sh*t. They are throw always. So some you can get years out of some you get month. But I can't argue. They will not compare to a rear garret. Another big thing with cx turbos is they oil line is not restricted. So you gotta take care of that. With our motor and with most I wouldn't trust the rods.

Ive been tuning cars since I was 16. I would build my own map for this car, as long as I had a wbo2 I would be fine.
 
Why would you use a stand alone system.

I think a piggy back system like the AEM. It should be able to keep you OBD inspection compliant and easy to tune.

The question is - Does it autotune itself using a wide band O2 meter?

AEM is not a piggy back, it completely takes the ecu out and you replace it with the AEM unit. Piggy back is like the SAFC where it just wires into the ecu and tricks the ecu into seeing a different air flow reading from the maf. The aem uses speed density so for tuning you would need a gm bar and air intake temp sensor.
 

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