EGR delete....
- Thread starter ralatkins
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I've found plenty of info through google. But I need to pass emissions so that wasn't an option for me to delete. I did however delete the hard lines and route some new hoses. Makes a big difference for pulling the plenum off. I'm not posting pics until I'm done with it. But it's running and everything right now.
I deleted the egr when chasing down a misfire. Would of put it back but broke one of the plastic lines off the egr accuator and its like $100 for a new one. Wasn't worth it so just left it off. Can't say it made any difference in hp, response or mileage. Basically I took out the egr lines, took the gaskets and made an outline on an old cookie sheet and cut out a plug, bolted those back up and then capped off the vacuum lines. Super easy.
ralatkins
Member
I did as well, but no really (and I need really) good directions. I am a terrible shade tree mechanic.
I am about to have headers put on and it has been told to me that my EGR valve is creating a vacuum leak. so I was going to delete for the same reasons.
ralatkins
Member
I just decided to pull the trigger on this, so I ordered the LC Engineering EGR block off kit. I don't have to worry about emissions and I have those really expensive Thorley headers sitting around ready to go on anyway. I am hooping between the headers, the EGR delete, manual hubs and a Supra MAF (ain't found it yet, still looking though) I can at least gain a horse or two and maybe some MPG (the manual hubs).
fo' runnin'
New member
Been wanting to do this on my turd for a while, just haven't got around to it yet. This is the only info I have on it, although I'm betting you've already seen this...
3VZE - EGR / PAIR valve removal and engine simplification. - YotaTech Forums
3VZE - EGR / PAIR valve removal and engine simplification. - YotaTech Forums
ralatkins
Member
yes I have, great information though. i'll let you know what I think. my LC parts will be here next week sometime. I'm hoping to start making some real headway with this truck now
formula1raider
New member
I just finished my EGR delete today. :hello:
I went by those same instructions on the YotaTech form and it was a good write up.
I was going to buy the kit from LC just like you but I didn't want to spend the almost same amount of $ on shipping as the part, call me cheap. So what I did was when I removed the EGR and pair valve pipes, I just cut the pipe off as close to the flange as possible and just did a little grinding to smooth it out and then sat it flat on a surface (side that it to the manifold) and then poured JB Weld right into it. Next day it was hard as a rock and filled it perfectly and smooth on the side that bolts to the manifold since it was flat on a surface. Instant block off plates and they look pretty good. Did that to the intake, and the upper exhaust one. I happen to weld the bottom one shut but you could of easily done the same with the JB weld.
Removed all the hoses he recommended except to the RED valve that controls the fuel pressure regulator and I put in a 10k ohm resistor that I got at radio shack.
I will post pictures tomorrow but it really cleaned up the area and you can get to your plugs easier. Was a pain in the butt trying to get to the bottom bolt on the lower pipe....not much room. So I think I spent less than $5 on the removal.
She fired right up....the check engine light went off (the whole reason I got rid of EGR as I was getting a code 71) and she purrs and although I just took it for a short drive I didn't notice any pinging as some people say you might get. I am really anxious to see if it does anything to hurt my gas mileage at all. Have a full tank so in the next week or so I will report my gas mileage.
Good luck with yours. And report your mileage when you get it all put together if you can.
I went by those same instructions on the YotaTech form and it was a good write up.
I was going to buy the kit from LC just like you but I didn't want to spend the almost same amount of $ on shipping as the part, call me cheap. So what I did was when I removed the EGR and pair valve pipes, I just cut the pipe off as close to the flange as possible and just did a little grinding to smooth it out and then sat it flat on a surface (side that it to the manifold) and then poured JB Weld right into it. Next day it was hard as a rock and filled it perfectly and smooth on the side that bolts to the manifold since it was flat on a surface. Instant block off plates and they look pretty good. Did that to the intake, and the upper exhaust one. I happen to weld the bottom one shut but you could of easily done the same with the JB weld.
Removed all the hoses he recommended except to the RED valve that controls the fuel pressure regulator and I put in a 10k ohm resistor that I got at radio shack.
I will post pictures tomorrow but it really cleaned up the area and you can get to your plugs easier. Was a pain in the butt trying to get to the bottom bolt on the lower pipe....not much room. So I think I spent less than $5 on the removal.
She fired right up....the check engine light went off (the whole reason I got rid of EGR as I was getting a code 71) and she purrs and although I just took it for a short drive I didn't notice any pinging as some people say you might get. I am really anxious to see if it does anything to hurt my gas mileage at all. Have a full tank so in the next week or so I will report my gas mileage.
Good luck with yours. And report your mileage when you get it all put together if you can.
ralatkins
Member
I will! thanks for shsring that. I hope I can get it done next week. one of my first real steps on this truck
ralatkins
Member
that's what I get on 31's and ac doesn't seem to matter
2G4M_GODFATHER
New member
Im getting ready to em bark on this project .. Mainly because i found vac lines broke and it causing it to run rough .. Any advise or helpful tips ot the pair valve and egr removal?
4runnerSloth
New member
egr
make sure you use a 10k ohm resistor especially if your vehicle is a california emissions or came from a state that required it. after the EGR/pair valve removal you can delete the rear o2 sensor just make sure and leave the front o2 sensor. Lce engineering sells a egr delete kit for just over 20$. id highly recommend it, it makes the job so much easier. also if anyone is on facebook check out this group, bunch of info and friendly people to help https://www.facebook.com/groups/2ndgen4runnermafia/
make sure you use a 10k ohm resistor especially if your vehicle is a california emissions or came from a state that required it. after the EGR/pair valve removal you can delete the rear o2 sensor just make sure and leave the front o2 sensor. Lce engineering sells a egr delete kit for just over 20$. id highly recommend it, it makes the job so much easier. also if anyone is on facebook check out this group, bunch of info and friendly people to help https://www.facebook.com/groups/2ndgen4runnermafia/
I had to do an emergency EGR delete, when I broke the cast iron EGR valve . . . twice . . . and had to travel across the state before I could get parts. I did not notice any difference in power or mileage over the few weeks before I put a new EGR valve in. Other than making it easier to access the spark plugs and to remove the plenum, I don't see any advantage.
2G4M_GODFATHER
New member
yeah ended up with a different engine and headers , and thanks for the group link , im the guy that created that group lo
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