Electrical ? AC outlet power keeps blowing fuses..

[skolinsk]

Hi, i have a 2000 base model 4 runner.

My situation is this:
I have a 3 way splitter plugged into the front console's cigarette lighter. i then have a radar detector and 2 heated seat pads plugged into the splitter. i keep blowing fuses in the engine fuse box (AC power fuse, 15A). i've replaced it quite a few times now, trying different combinations of fuses in the engine fuse box and tube fuses that go into the splitter. depending on which fuse is where they both have blown at different times.. I can get it to work for a short time sometimes, but once the passenger heat seat goes on, the fuse blows.

the whole setup can work when i unplug the pass seat heater, but i am wondering if theres any way i can set it up so all 3 will work... consistently

im not an electrical mind at all, so any advice is greatly apreciated.. thanks in advance guys.

 

[techno]

Fuses blow for a reason, and a very good one too. You are simply trying to draw too much electricity through the wires. A fuse contains a small metalic element that conducts electricity of a certain amount. If too much is trying to get through then the element gets hot to the point of melting and then you have a blown fuse. Without the fuse the whole wiring system would get hot and most likely catch on fire. Fire is bad. Do not attempt to cheat the system by replacing the fuse with a higher amperage one, you are asking for trouble.
If you must run all that stuff then you will have to visit an auto electrician and get them to upgrade the wiring. Those seat heaters suck plenty of power.
(or get rid of the radar detector and obey the speed limit )

 

[shootmymime]

Fuses blow for a reason, and a very good one too. You are simply trying to draw too much electricity through the wires. A fuse contains a small metalic element that conducts electricity of a certain amount. If too much is trying to get through then the element gets hot to the point of melting and then you have a blown fuse. Without the fuse the whole wiring system would get hot and most likely catch on fire. Fire is bad. Do not attempt to cheat the system by replacing the fuse with a higher amperage one, you are asking for trouble.

need i say anymore?

 

[skolinsk]

ok, well i kinda figured why they were blowing. but thanks for the lesson there anyway. Im more interested in a practical/do it yourself and or cheap solution though.

i have little doubt that its possible. I mean its a friggin huge battery. i just dont know how or by what means necessary to do it.. anyone??

:awais:

 

[techno]

If you have the specs on how much current (amps) your stuff uses then you can work out what fuse would be required for normal operation. Then go you your local auto store and buy some heavier guage wire and rewire the outlets.
I'm sure iff you hunt around on the net you could find some info on upgrading wiring systems.

 

[muddy-in-ms]

Yeah finding a new setup on the net is the best decision if you are capable of doing it yourself. An auto electrician would charge you twice the price of the part just for the labor.

 

[muddy-in-ms]

Actually, what I might try to do is to run the wiring for the heated seats or the radar detector directly to the fuse box or the battery (whatever floats your boat, but doesn't sink it)

 

[skolinsk]

how would i go about doing that muddy??

 

[skolinsk]

OK, so i guess what i have gathered is that the easiest of my options from this point is to connect a direct line from the battery, complete with an in line fuse (30 amp should do it, but im trying to find out the current reqs for the seats/radar to make certain). only problem is that i fully understand the concept, just need some explanation on the actual application. how do i hook all this shit up? and how do i run it to the stuff im trying to power??