Electrical Issue: VSC, Brake, Multi Terrain

[TwoDollarBlue]

I wish I could load the video to show exactly how they flash in and off. Also the speedo jumps up and down from zero to actual speed. Note this vehicle is 100% stock. Do you think it could still need the calibration you speak of?

 

[Hltoppr]

Check and see if this happens after a rain, or washing the vehicle. While there are numerous causes the dealership will find when they run it through Techstream (including getting kicked out of Techstream), the majority seems to be caused by water...even a few drops...running down the wiring harness through the grommet on the driver's side firewall, into the ecu controlling the brake pedal, etc.

I ended up siliconing my wiring harness where it passes into the grommet and through the firewall, and haven't had any issues since.

-H-

 

[aelarson]

So my new 2018 TRD Pro is having this electrical issue you all speak of. Only 6,000 miles on the thing. I dropped off at the dealer and they said it was the instrument cluster. They had it for three weeks getting the parts and the mileage reprogrammed to the new cluster. I get it back and two days later same crap. If anyone knows a good Toyota tech please PM me their contact info where I can share with my dealer. I feel like they are going to just keep changing parts for no reason. Attached is a picture similar to others as to what it is doing. As info this was while driving at 40mph and note the speedometer says zero. Thanks for any and all help.

Check your wheel speed sensors. There is one on every wheel. Can easily come loose or stretch with some suspension flex...or in my case, one of the wheel speed sensor wires got chewed by a bunny. I had all of the same lights, but my speedo worked. Might be worth checking out.

You can read about what happened to my wheel speed sensor here.

 

[rigtec]

I wish I could load the video to show exactly how they flash in and off. Also the speedo jumps up and down from zero to actual speed. Note this vehicle is 100% stock. Do you think it could still need the calibration you speak of?

Hi TwoDollarBlue,

...perhaps this will help you in your time of frustration; "I've been through it": http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2888142-post41.html 'Best to you',

rig

 

[TwoDollarBlue]

I’m with you on the rain. It rained Friday while I was driving for 15 minutes. Then I didn’t drive on Saturday. Then Sunday I drive and it starts the problem again after 5 minutes. I dropped it back off at the dealer yesterday. Day 24 and counting of not having my yota. Think Toyota should credit me on my monthly payments until resolved? They gave me a loaner car but it’s junk compared to what I’m paying for.

 

[rigtec]

I’m with you on the rain. It rained Friday while I was driving for 15 minutes. Then I didn’t drive on Saturday. Then Sunday I drive and it starts the problem again after 5 minutes. I dropped it back off at the dealer yesterday. Day 24 and counting of not having my yota. Think Toyota should credit me on my monthly payments until resolved? They gave me a loaner car but it’s junk compared to what I’m paying for.

I can't stress this point enough TwoDollarBlue. In order for Toyota to compete with Jeep GC, Nisson, and Honda, the Engineers @ Toyota knew the 4Runner needed to be capable of off-road trailing, (which may include stream crossings, and some muddy swamp challenges)! Now, I never go off-road with my LE, but it does see a lot of rain, here in Jersey, and many car washes; which 'at times' does include my entire engine, engine bay area, wheel-wells, radiator, and A/C condenser having a bath; pressure washed (from the inside out) on several occasion!

But getting the vehicles wet (except for a serious defect), won't normally cause the trouble that you've described. Also, if/when the techs at Toyota dealership do check the OBD-II port, the fault log registry will likely show 'No Fault Codes' because the faults that were mentioned in your previous post were NOT RELATED to each other ...the ABS, A-Trac and VSC are in a network that work together.

But the Speed-o-meter, Tach-o-meter, Instrument cluster Illumination, steering system, Security system...etc are being generated by the 'Main body ECU COMPU Network itself, and making it "Appear" as if there's trouble with a sensor, but these sensors are mostly in different networks, independent of each other! This is why I suggested checking that ALL of the ECU's (Particularly the Main body ECU compu) are getting properly power sourced, if not... the very trouble that you report is inevitable!

The dealerships should ALL know that after nine years of servicing this 'Unchanged' Gen-5 4Runner! I know that most of them don't know that because after I had the very same problem (back in Nov '14), and several dealerships later, I was forced to figure it out myself... and at that time, I didn't have a 'Tech-Stream' diagnostic (cable) tool to work with! This problem continued for six months because it wouldn't always malfunction that way whenever I wanted it to so that I could trouble-shoot it!

...Just a lil' friendly/Technical advice... don't spend ANY money (for now), get your truck back and check for electrical source power at the Main body ECU Compu network. Start at the 'Short-pin' in the engine room Rly/Fusebox; pull it out, examine it, clean the terminals, and put it back in it's slot. Check the '#34 ECU-B 10A fuse ...same fusebox and check for continuity using a self powered test-light or a multi-meter set to 'OHM's. If it checks out, put it back in it's slot!

You'll find the trouble, just keep at it until you do; there're lots of tech-support resources here on forum, so don't be intimidated because you've got a problem, and be sure to let us know how you're making out, okay(?)! 'Best to you',

rig

 

[rigtec]

Just for verification, I wanted to post an Image of my instrument cluster when the trouble first started; of course it got much worse as the days passed:

See ABS and BRAKE warning on the left, on right (above fuel gauge) see yellow 'Tracking' and 'small circle!' icon.


After that day my 4-Low, steering icons lit up, then I'd lose my Speed-o-meter, and Tach-o-meter! ...it get's worse. I'd be driving on the highway at night and the Instrument cluster's Illumination backlighting would be flashing on and off, until at some point it would just fail/stay off; that's dangerous cuz you don't know how fast you're travelling or how much fuel you have left...

Even the seat belt icon would come on even though I had it buckled up and the 'Security system warning icon' would come on and stay on indefinitely, and the Air Bag (SRS) indicator icon!

rig, Cheers

 

[TwoDollarBlue]

I can't stress this point enough TwoDollarBlue. In order for Toyota to compete with Jeep GC, Nisson, and Honda, the Engineers @ Toyota knew the 4Runner needed to be capable of off-road trailing, (which may include stream crossings, and some muddy swamp challenges)! Now, I never go off-road with my LE, but it does see a lot of rain, here in Jersey, and many car washes; which 'at times' does include my entire engine, engine bay area, wheel-wells, radiator, and A/C condenser having a bath; pressure washed (from the inside out) on several occasion!

But getting the vehicles wet (except for a serious defect), won't normally cause the trouble that you've described. Also, if/when the techs at Toyota dealership do check the OBD-II port, the fault log registry will likely show 'No Fault Codes' because the faults that were mentioned in your previous post were NOT RELATED to each other ...the ABS, A-Trac and VSC are in a network that work together.

But the Speed-o-meter, Tach-o-meter, Instrument cluster Illumination, steering system, Security system...etc are being generated by the 'Main body ECU COMPU Network itself, and making it "Appear" as if there's trouble with a sensor, but these sensors are mostly in different networks, independent of each other! This is why I suggested checking that ALL of the ECU's (Particularly the Main body ECU compu) are getting properly power sourced, if not... the very trouble that you report is inevitable!

The dealerships should ALL know that after nine years of servicing this 'Unchanged' Gen-5 4Runner! I know that most of them don't know that because after I had the very same problem (back in Nov '14), and several dealerships later, I was forced to figure it out myself... and at that time, I didn't have a 'Tech-Stream' diagnostic (cable) tool to work with! This problem continued for six months because it wouldn't always malfunction that way whenever I wanted it to so that I could trouble-shoot it!

...Just a lil' friendly/Technical advice... don't spend ANY money (for now), get your truck back and check for electrical source power at the Main body ECU Compu network. Start at the 'Short-pin' in the engine room Rly/Fusebox; pull it out, examine it, clean the terminals, and put it back in it's slot. Check the '#34 ECU-B 10A fuse ...same fusebox and check for continuity using a self powered test-light or a multi-meter set to 'OHM's. If it checks out, put it back in it's slot!

You'll find the trouble, just keep at it until you do; there're lots of tech-support resources here on forum, so don't be intimidated because you've got a problem, and be sure to let us know how you're making out, okay(?)! 'Best to you',

rig

Thanks for the guidance rigtec. The yota is already back at the dealership. I’m sure they are scratching their heads and just playing the parts swap game. When I get it back and it still isn’t fixed I will break my multi-meter out and start chasing down the problem. Luckily at only 6,000 miles this work isn’t going to cost me anything at the dealer. It’s just costing me heartache having a Mazda rental crap crossover. I’ll keep you all updated on the progress.

 

[TwoDollarBlue]

Video of my issues in the link. https://mobile.twitter.com/TwoDollarBlue/status/1021568260616142849/video/1

 

[rigtec]

Thanks for the guidance rigtec. The yota is already back at the dealership. I’m sure they are scratching their heads and just playing the parts swap game. When I get it back and it still isn’t fixed I will break my multi-meter out and start chasing down the problem. Luckily at only 6,000 miles this work isn’t going to cost me anything at the dealer. It’s just costing me heartache having a Mazda rental crap crossover. I’ll keep you all updated on the progress.

Understood brother, 'Best to you',

rig

 

[desertred]

Boom. This issue just occurred today on my 2010 stock SR5 after 131K miles. No extra batteries, no lifts, in fact still on the original shocks (though I have a set of 5100s waiting to go on). The issue manifested itself while driving on a dry interstate when I depressed the bake pedal in slowing for traffic. I had been driving over snowy roads over the last couple of days however. All the warning lights, Speedo, tach, instrument lighting all drop to 0 or go out, returning to normal after I release the brake pedal. This happed each time I pressed the brake pedal with the engine actually stalling twice after I came to a complete stop at an intersection. After staring the engine following the first stall, no replication until I was about 1-2 blocks from my home (about 50 miles later). Have an appointment at the dealership in a couple of days for diagnostics. I'll take a copy of rigtec's post with me and offer it to the techs. We'll see what happens.

 

[EZBR.]

Boom. This issue just occurred today on my 2010 stock SR5 after 131K miles. No extra batteries, no lifts, in fact still on the original shocks (though I have a set of 5100s waiting to go on). The issue manifested itself while driving on a dry interstate when I depressed the bake pedal in slowing for traffic. I had been driving over snowy roads over the last couple of days however. All the warning lights, Speedo, tach, instrument lighting all drop to 0 or go out, returning to normal after I release the brake pedal. This happed each time I pressed the brake pedal with the engine actually stalling twice after I came to a complete stop at an intersection. After staring the engine following the first stall, no replication until I was about 1-2 blocks from my home (about 50 miles later). Have an appointment at the dealership in a couple of days for diagnostics. I'll take a copy of rigtec's post with me and offer it to the techs. We'll see what happens.

Keep us posted man... my 14 just started doing this today suprise suprise, after a car wash

going to check my firewall harness for water in the AM...

 

[desertred]

Going back to the dealer on Friday for round 2. First round ended up replacing the short pin in the under hood fuse box, not that it was found to be bad, but because I had lost it the night before taking it to the dealer when I pulled it out to test IAW rigtec's post. :redface: They had a spare one, installed it and cleared all of the codes (which likely transpired after I removed/lost the short pin). That worked for a day, but the issue manifested itself again the next time I drove it a few days later.

I did find a couple threads that led to replacement of the ignition switch in line and the neutral safety with in another that solved the problem. I'll mention these to the dealer when I take the vehicle in.

For those of you that have had the problem, has it prevented you from driving the vehicle out of concern?

 

[Brownfaux]

Same issue here. 2016 Trail premium.

Sat for a week under snow and rain, I think I had even been to the car wash before this. Skid plate is currently removed as well. Same error lights, got progressively worse, then after sitting in my garage for a week, it was fine.

I took it out in the rain a day later and all seemed fine. Drove it again today and all the lights are back. I've read some of these other posts, I'm going to follow rigtek's instructions and check with a voltmeter, but I've already opened that main harness in the kick panel and have not found any water.

I'm really thinking it's water related, it all seems to match up. Otherwise nothing changed on the vehicle prior to this happening.

 

[LC100]

I can't stress this point enough TwoDollarBlue. In order for Toyota to compete with Jeep GC, Nisson, and Honda, the Engineers @ Toyota knew the 4Runner needed to be capable of off-road trailing, (which may include stream crossings, and some muddy swamp challenges)! Now, I never go off-road with my LE, but it does see a lot of rain, here in Jersey, and many car washes; which 'at times' does include my entire engine, engine bay area, wheel-wells, radiator, and A/C condenser having a bath; pressure washed (from the inside out) on several occasion!

But getting the vehicles wet (except for a serious defect), won't normally cause the trouble that you've described. Also, if/when the techs at Toyota dealership do check the OBD-II port, the fault log registry will likely show 'No Fault Codes' because the faults that were mentioned in your previous post were NOT RELATED to each other ...the ABS, A-Trac and VSC are in a network that work together.

But the Speed-o-meter, Tach-o-meter, Instrument cluster Illumination, steering system, Security system...etc are being generated by the 'Main body ECU COMPU Network itself, and making it "Appear" as if there's trouble with a sensor, but these sensors are mostly in different networks, independent of each other! This is why I suggested checking that ALL of the ECU's (Particularly the Main body ECU compu) are getting properly power sourced, if not... the very trouble that you report is inevitable!

The dealerships should ALL know that after nine years of servicing this 'Unchanged' Gen-5 4Runner! I know that most of them don't know that because after I had the very same problem (back in Nov '14), and several dealerships later, I was forced to figure it out myself... and at that time, I didn't have a 'Tech-Stream' diagnostic (cable) tool to work with! This problem continued for six months because it wouldn't always malfunction that way whenever I wanted it to so that I could trouble-shoot it!

...Just a lil' friendly/Technical advice... don't spend ANY money (for now), get your truck back and check for electrical source power at the Main body ECU Compu network. Start at the 'Short-pin' in the engine room Rly/Fusebox; pull it out, examine it, clean the terminals, and put it back in it's slot. Check the '#34 ECU-B 10A fuse ...same fusebox and check for continuity using a self powered test-light or a multi-meter set to 'OHM's. If it checks out, put it back in it's slot!

You'll find the trouble, just keep at it until you do; there're lots of tech-support resources here on forum, so don't be intimidated because you've got a problem, and be sure to let us know how you're making out, okay(?)! 'Best to you',

rig

THANK YOU, [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] x1,000,000!! I acquired a 15 Pro with a missing short pin fuse. Symptoms included:

• Multi-terrain select unavailable
• Slip light indicator
• SRS warning
• Non-working interior lighting - dome, map, vanity cargo, courtesy
• Non-working clock
• Trunk would not open unless the vehicle was turned on

I was leaning towards ABS sensor replacement and/or voltage checking all of the fuses. Glad I found this post first!

Here's a related post as well: Weird electrical issue on 2015 Trail

 

[rigtec]

...in addition...,

THANK YOU, [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] x1,000,000!! I acquired a 15 Pro with a missing short pin fuse. Symptoms included:

• Multi-terrain select unavailable
• Slip light indicator
• SRS warning
• Non-working interior lighting - dome, map, vanity cargo, courtesy
• Non-working clock
• Trunk would not open unless the vehicle was turned on

I was leaning towards ABS sensor replacement and/or voltage checking all of the fuses. Glad I found this post first!

Here's a related post as well: Weird electrical issue on 2015 Trail

Hi LC100,

One more [Ultra IMPORTANT] thing to check. Center point steering calibration, and Yaw-rate acceleration calibration, Are Key to a proper functioning ECU/PCM Compu-Network! Takes about 20 minutes to do properly, once you have a level platform for the truck to rest on (tire psi equal on all four tires), and the steering wheel MUST BE STRAIGHT!

You don't need to buy a "Tech-Stream" cable/software... you only need two medium size paper clips; mine are connected to two 4 ft' wires for easy viewing of the instrument cluster while calibrating! You can see how to do this by hitting the search field above this thread, or, plenty vids on YouTube for 4'th or 5'th gen 4RUNNERs!

~rig~ Cheers...!

 

[LC100]

Hi LC100,

One more [Ultra IMPORTANT] thing to check. Center point steering calibration, and Yaw-rate acceleration calibration, Are Key to a proper functioning ECU/PCM Compu-Network! Takes about 20 minutes to do properly, once you have a level platform for the truck to rest on (tire psi equal on all four tires), and the steering wheel MUST BE STRAIGHT!

You don't need to buy a "Tech-Stream" cable/software... you only need two medium size paper clips; mine are connected to two 4 ft' wires for easy viewing of the instrument cluster while calibrating! You can see how to do this by hitting the search field above this thread, or, plenty vids on YouTube for 4'th or 5'th gen 4RUNNERs!

~rig~ Cheers...!

Thank you for the heads up. I downloaded the calibration document.

Speaking of Techstream, I could program 2 'G' keys from Amazon, but the unlock/lock buttons do not work; the car turns over fine with both keys. Any advise on this?

 

[rigtec]

Vehicle Lock/Unlock trouble

Thank you for the heads up. I downloaded the calibration document.

Speaking of Techstream, I could program 2 'G' keys from Amazon, but the unlock/lock buttons do not work; the car turns over fine with both keys. Any advise on this?

Hi LC100,

I lost ALL four door lock actuators, one-at-a-time in my 2012 LE. It took 6 years to lose the first 3, and the d/s door this past Summer! A door actuator can cost upwards of $400 bucks, but the lil' D-shaft motors are $6 bucks on ebay w/ FAST & FREE S&H! So I swapped mine one at a time as they went; I got a BADD BATCH as I think of it now!

You can test the door lock actuators using a 9V battery at the door harness plug, if you're not sure if they're working or not... (just get creative). If one works, disconnect the NEG Battery cable... minimum of four hours, and reconnect the battery again, and you should be fine! The ECUs are like your phone/laptop... they need "Restarting" occasionally!

~rig~ Best to you!

 

[rigtec]

Thanks for the guidance rigtec. The yota is already back at the dealership. I’m sure they are scratching their heads and just playing the parts swap game. When I get it back and it still isn’t fixed I will break my multi-meter out and start chasing down the problem. Luckily at only 6,000 miles this work isn’t going to cost me anything at the dealer. It’s just costing me heartache having a Mazda rental crap crossover. I’ll keep you all updated on the progress.

Two DollarBlue,

You, or ANYONE has these problems, here's what needs to be done "FIRST!"

Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration

I've done this procedure about 3 times; bc it may be needed that often; but it works... EVERYTIME!

Best to you all! ~rig~ :cheers:

 

[Travisstorma]

Thanks so much for these posts. I had the same problem with the multi terrain select and haywire gauges and it would’ve taken me years to figure this out. I had (gently) washed my engine bay and it was enough for about 5 drops of water (literally) to run down the wiring harness and collect in the white connector with the green/purple/white/gray wires coming out of it (had to cut it out of a bunch of black electrical tape).

Apparently the connector was taped up in such a fashion that the water ran down and pooled in this white thing that bridges the wires, causing the short. A little compressed air to dry it out and I was good to go. Thanks again!

I know this is old... but THANK YOU!! for this. Been fighting this issue for years. I cut the tape holding that connector up and water dripped out. Pins were corroded. Got a new junction connector from a salvage yard and cleaned the pins with a very small file and electronic connector cleaner. No issues since!