Engine barely runs when jumped, low idle, then dies

puppetz007

New member
2001 3.4L, 173k. I have to jump the runner to get it to start. Once it starts the idle is really low, around 600 rpm. What is the normal idle when in park? I recently changed the spark plugs with the factory recommended NGKs that most people run on here and it was running well until the last few days. I suspect the battery is bad and will have it tested tomorrow. Other than that I'll check and clean spark plug connections and battery connections. Anyone have any ideas that I may not be thinking of?

Thanks.
 
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I'll pull both of those tomorrow and get them tested. Hopefully it's not the alternator, I just replaced that a little over a year ago. Thanks guys.
 
I have to jump the runner to get it to start. Once it starts the idle is really low, around 600 rpm. What is the normal idle when in park?


What happens when you put your foot on the gas?

Does it rev up and hold steady as it should with no hesitation or CEL codes?

If the vehicle is exhibiting the symptoms I listed and dying at idle then you probably (90% IMO) have an IAC (Idle Air Control) problem.


There are fixes out there. In the mean time just rev it up when it acts that way. Mine has done it for years, I simply rev it up and get on the road. Try to keep it at 2000 RPM for 60 seconds and then start your drive. On my truck the IAC always acts normal after a few minutes of driving.

Don't replace your alternator without first getting a voltage AND current (amp) check from a mechanic or Pep-Boys. There are plenty of shops out there who will replace alternators when it isn't needed.


Try these:

http://www.google.com/search?q=site....,cf.osb&fp=1ec32fd6d2b822f7&biw=1269&bih=796

....


http://www.google.com/search?q=site....,cf.osb&fp=1ec32fd6d2b822f7&biw=1269&bih=796


..


:lookout:
 
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I'll pull both of those tomorrow and get them tested. Hopefully it's not the alternator, I just replaced that a little over a year ago. Thanks guys.


It does sound as if you have two separate issues: the lack of working battery (or alternator) and the low idle.

You can get the alternator tested on the vehicle but given that it isn't old I doubt it is the alternator. My GF went through two alternators before replacing the battery. Mechanics love to charge people for $350 alternators.

Finally, after a different (one stop shop) mechanic told her that she needed the cars 3rd alternator, I intervened. Instead I bought her a new battery from Costco + new factory plugs and whalllaaa the car has worked fine since.

:beer:
 
The main reason I suggested alternator is because ive had a few go out on me on various vehicles and they gave the same symptons you are having. On the older vehicles before all of the electronics, it wasnt that bad, you could pretty much run all day long on just the battery, especially if your vehicle used points in the distributor, as long as you didnt need headlights, wipers, radio, etc. The battery alone would power the engine/distributor, blinkers, etc. just fine for quite some time. But on the newer vehicles, if the alternator isnt putting out enough, or any, power and your battery is already drained due to it not getting charged by the alternator, then your engine will idle low and not want to run at all, especially once you pull the jumper cables.

On the other hand, several times, especially here lately, while working on either the wifes vehicle or my own, we had the radio on and ran the battery down completely. Put cables on it and jumped it, and it just fired and died. Did that constantly until the battery actually had a little charge and was holding. So im still guessing alternator or battery.

Would be a good idea too, if you have a charger, to put that battery on charge for awhile and try to fire it up after a few hours or so with a fresh charge on the battery and see what happens. Either way, im curious to see what it is. Hope you get it fixed soon, and cheap!!

(Definitely dont go buy anything until someone trustworthy has tested your current equipment.)

:snacker:
 
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What happens when you put your foot on the gas?

Does it rev up and hold steady as it should with no hesitation or CEL codes?

If the vehicle is exhibiting the symptoms I listed and dying at idle then you probably (90% IMO) have an IAC (Idle Air Control) problem.


There are fixes out there. In the mean time just rev it up when it acts that way. Mine has done it for years, I simply rev it up and get on the road. Try to keep it at 2000 RPM for 60 seconds and then start your drive. On my truck the IAC always acts normal after a few minutes of driving.

Don't replace your alternator without first getting a voltage AND current (amp) check from a mechanic or Pep-Boys. There are plenty of shops out there who will replace alternators when it isn't needed.


Try these:

site:toyota-4Runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/ - Google Search

....


site:toyota-4Runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/ - Google Search


..


:lookout:


The engine will rev up just find and hold the rev. I haven't had a CEL come on, only the battery light and that comes on whether I'm driving or just sitting at idle. I looked through the threads you linked and I'll take at look at my TB and IAC. The battery and alt are the easiest to have checked out first so I'll get the tests done and see if it's either one of those.
 
I did not see you have a battery light on. As the others have said, it is probably the alt but get it checked out.
 
Swapped the alternator (free with warranty) and the engine is running much better than last night. Thanks for all help guys.
 
Thought my problems were solved yesterday by installing the new alternator, but they weren't. Had to jump it to get it started tonight. Went on a 20 min drive, half freeway half surface streets, parked it and turned it off. Immediately tried to start in again and it wouldn't start. Let it sit for awhile and had to get a jump to get back home. On the freeway headed home the battery light came on, stereo turned off, and headlights were real dim. I was able to make it home and now the truck won't start w/o a jump. Tested the voltage with my multimeter and got readings between 11.4 and 12.0 volts. I'm going to have the battery fully charged then tested tomorrow. Think the battery might be dead? Is there something wrong between the alternator and the battery?
 
Thought my problems were solved yesterday by installing the new alternator, but they weren't. Had to jump it to get it started tonight. Went on a 20 min drive, half freeway half surface streets, parked it and turned it off. Immediately tried to start in again and it wouldn't start. Let it sit for awhile and had to get a jump to get back home. On the freeway headed home the battery light came on, stereo turned off, and headlights were real dim. I was able to make it home and now the truck won't start w/o a jump. Tested the voltage with my multimeter and got readings between 11.4 and 12.0 volts. I'm going to have the battery fully charged then tested tomorrow. Think the battery might be dead? Is there something wrong between the alternator and the battery?

Sorry its still acting up. I would definitely have the battery tested. I would have had it tested when you swapped the alternator out. But anyways, it could have a bad cell in it, or just completely gone now.
 
Sorry its still acting up. I would definitely have the battery tested. I would have had it tested when you swapped the alternator out. But anyways, it could have a bad cell in it, or just completely gone now.


The guy at the parts store when I swapped the alternator said the battery was dead and needed to be charged before he could test it. I do think it's the battery now, especially since the alternator is brand new.
 
The guy at the parts store when I swapped the alternator said the battery was dead and needed to be charged before he could test it. I do think it's the battery now, especially since the alternator is brand new.
Ok, I hear ya. I am curious, did they even test the alternator when you took it in to the part store to see if it was faulty, or did they just give you a new one?
 
Ok, I hear ya. I am curious, did they even test the alternator when you took it in to the part store to see if it was faulty, or did they just give you a new one?

The tested the alternator and said it was running fine, but he asked if I wanted a new one since they had one in stock. It didn't cost me anything so I took the new one in exchange for the old one.
 
The tested the alternator and said it was running fine, but he asked if I wanted a new one since they had one in stock. It didn't cost me anything so I took the new one in exchange for the old one.

Wow! You must deal with an awesome parts store! Its odd that your runner ran fine at first after you installed the new one? I hope its your battery man. Let us know the results when you find out.
 

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