Engine oil question

[Herculean T4R]

I have decided to maintain status quo.

 

[ThorInc]

I run Amsoil.....started using it in my 2 stroke 200hp outboard ten years ago and witnessing how clean it burns vs. non syntethic, I was a total believer.

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I have decided to maintain status quo.

I like it.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Not sure. Its been going on for months (TB/WP/seal replacement was about 8mo ago), and has only seeped out far enough to be visible over the past month or so.

Its small, but I can have it repaired under labor warranty so I may as well.

I'm still not adding oil between changes.

Sounds like they didn't install the seal correctly, or didn't use an OEM seal.

 

[LeeMajors]

Sounds like they didn't install the seal correctly, or didn't use an OEM seal.

That's my suspicion. They use OEM parts exclusively at this shop. Not sure what else it could be based on the location though.

/derail

 

[stir_fry_boy]

That's my suspicion. They use OEM parts exclusively at this shop. Not sure what else it could be based on the location though.

/derail

Could be cam seal, or even valve cover gasket leaking behind the front black metal head cover (located behind the cam pulleys).

Worst case is that they scratched the metal surrounding the seal when removing the old seal.

 

[LeeMajors]

Could be cam seal, or even valve cover gasket leaking behind the front black metal head cover (located behind the cam pulleys).

Worst case is that they scratched the metal surrounding the seal when removing the old seal.

I did bc gaskets before and they did cam seals at the same time.

I'll find out tues

 

[Lug1]

I respectfully disagree. I have been running an OCI of 7500 using synthetic oil and an oversized premium filter (the NAPA Platinum PFL 41516) and I get regular UOAs from Blackstone Laboratories. The feedback is that I could go longer if I chose to but I prefer not. The characteristics of that oil at the end of its run is just as good as the dino oil on Day 1 and a whole lot better than dino at 5k. . Toyota never tested this approach on these engines and has no interest in doing so. Why should they? That doesn't mean it doesn't work. I'm at 180k and switched to full synthetic @7500OCI from a blend @5kOCI at 60k when synthetic prices dropped enough to make it financially interesting.

Sure, you'll do fine with dino and a 5k OCI, but you are throwing money and effort away and you're really not doing your engine any favors.

I understand. I'm sure there might be some advantages to using syn' oil.
I'm on the side that sticks to the 5W30. I don't know how long my engine is going to run, so far it's on 5K intervals (never a mile more than 5K), mid quality filters (Fram TG).
I belive 5.5 quarts of Mobil1 Full Syn' can range up to $40 here is MA, while there's always some great sale on a given brand of dino+filter.

I get my oil for free some of the time, and I can even have a choice of Syn when that happens, even then I I stick with dino. But when I must pay it's not even a hard choice

 

[nc-grayson]

Out of curiosity, has anybody here ever first-handedly seen or experienced engine issues as a direct result of switching to full synthetic? I've heard it discussed time and time again in the decade I've been a licensed forum goer, across multiple car scenes....but never actually read of anything catastrophic happening to users. Ole Nessie

 

[pluton]

I respectfully disagree. I have been running an OCI of 7500 using synthetic oil and an oversized premium filter (the NAPA Platinum PFL 41516) and I get regular UOAs from Blackstone Laboratories. The feedback is that I could go longer if I chose to but I prefer not. The characteristics of that oil at the end of its run is just as good as the dino oil on Day 1 and a whole lot better than dino at 5k. . Toyota never tested this approach on these engines and has no interest in doing so. Why should they? That doesn't mean it doesn't work. I'm at 180k and switched to full synthetic @7500OCI from a blend @5kOCI at 60k when synthetic prices dropped enough to make it financially interesting.

Sure, you'll do fine with dino and a 5k OCI, but you are throwing money and effort away and you're really not doing your engine any favors.

This is the first forum statement I've seen that offered non-heresay evidence for an argument for a particular class** of oil beyond "no problems so far" and the common "my engine loves it."
Thank you for that.
By the way, the "synthetic oil" you are referring to: is it class 3, 4 or 5?
Just wondering...

 

[holen01]

I switched to M1 high mileage full syn about a year ago with no issues. I currently have 267*** miles on my 01 and its still running like new. It seamed to run smoother when I first switched but maybe it was just all in the head.

 

[T5RUNNER]

Use the cheapest oil you feel comfortable using that complies with the API ratings specified by Toyota.

Correct answer here, super tech is as good as any other.

Changing your oil is not about the oil wearing out so much as it is about removing all the contaminates that have built up in it. The type or brand you use does not change this fact.

All oil contains seal conditioners, high mileage oil just contains more.

There is no set amount of synthetic oil in synthetic blend, it could be less than 1%.