Engine stalls on start, and no power when throttle is depressed

[worldcoast]

The engine will start fine and rev up to 2000 rpm when it's been parked overnight. If it's been run anytime in the last four hours you have to keep the key turned for a couple of seconds or the vehicle will stall even with the accelerator depressed.

When driving, sometimes the vehicle will lose power. This usually happens within a couple of blocks of starting out for the day, and usually not at any other time.

Any ideas?

Checked the EGR valve already, it's fine.

 

[jhinderliter]

have you looked over the ignition system?

 

[worldcoast]

sure did, new dist cap, and plugs.

The thing will idle high when the engine is cold, but then it has trouble shifting. I've been hearing a whistle lately, I think there might be a vacuum line off or something.

 

[yotatilla]

try cleaning out your mass airflow sensor, AKA the top of your air box. My buick was doing the same thing and the mass airflow sensor was dirty. My truck did something similar and it was alsoi the mass airflow sensor.

 

[worldcoast]

I'm pulling codes 24 and 31

 

[greasefingers]

Yep clean the MAF sensor first then clear the codes and recheck.
This is for a lexus engine but the proceedure is the same.

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge/index.php?page=index_v2&id=50&c=9

 

[greasefingers]

I am not positive about your engine but the MAF sensor also measures the intake air temperature. This is probably why you get Code 23.

 

[worldcoast]

it's not code 23

The AFM as it's called has a gate instead of wires, how would I go about cleaning that out?

It's a pretty straight forward swing or doesn't swing from what I can see

 

[worldcoast]

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/afm/

that's the system i'm running

 

[worldcoast]

well i fixed the no-start when hot issue. I jumpered B+ and FP together in the diagnostic box. That keeps the fuel pump on regardless of what the other sensors are sending it. Starts like a charm everytime. I imagine there is something shot in the AFM still, but I don't feel like replacing that for $1200

Now I just have to figure out where I can jump that inside and run a switch so that I don't have to have the diag panel open all the time.

The stumbling issue is still there, when I double checked the EGR, I found that my father's mechanic had stuck a screw in the vacuum line coming off the top of the EGR. The top of the EGR had nothing connected to it. So I tested out the EGR, sure enough punctured diaphram. :arrow:

This was my father's "tested and true" mechanic who's probably been soaking him on the truck for the past few years. Told him the EGR was fine and he needed a new transmission. :bash: