Engine / Transmission Problems

[Alpenglow13]

First post here, been reading for over a year.

Im currently experiencing some problems with my 97 limited. During a light wheeling trip this weekend i noticed my transmission was overfilled. I went ahead and drained some and its reading a proper level now. The problems im experiencing is that there is a constant hummm coming from the bellhousing-ish area. The engine also doesn't seem to be as perky, but runs smooth despite the now poor throttle response. At the same time this problem seemed to occur I began having power issues. Gauges would die off, radio shut down, low battery light would turn on, etc but engine would continue to run. If i reved it up power would be restored, so i assumed my battery was shot as the car had been on for hours prior to this happening so it should have been charged. The funny thing was if i turned the engine off it would fire back up. I went ahead and replaced it today with a diehard platinum group 34 and my stock alt is reading over around 13.9 volts so it should be fine.

So, i installed the battery this afternoon and turned the rig on. Fired right up but the engine/transmission problems still were present. Now i heard a clicking from the same area that i believe is present in all gears except neutral.

In summery I'm experiencing a humm and clicking from what i believe is the transmission (automatic) but it seems to shift ok. Fluid level appears to be fine. Anyone have any clue what could be wrong? Related to power problem at all? Tomorrow morning ill have it up on a lift at work and will be looking it over with my boss but i was hoping someone here with more experience with our auto trans might have a clue whats going on.

 

[kball]

So you were out wheeling and just happened to check the dipstick? Any issues that made you do that? Assuming it was over the hot level area but how did it look? You know about the pink milkshake issues right? Was it foamy/aerated? If not you might try filling it back up. Sounds like all the problems started after you drained some. Maybe your trans likes a little extra and if it hasn't caused a problem so far...?

 

[Alpenglow13]

So you were out wheeling and just happened to check the dipstick? Any issues that made you do that? Assuming it was over the hot level area but how did it look? You know about the pink milkshake issues right? Was it foamy/aerated? If not you might try filling it back up. Sounds like all the problems started after you drained some. Maybe your trans likes a little extra and if it hasn't caused a problem so far...?

Happened to check the dipstick before hitting the trail, it was .5-1inch above the hot mark and i had easily driven over 100 miles at that point so everything was defiantly hot. I kind of just figured i didn't have a choice to fix it at that point and hit the trail. Later on, after the electrical issue turned me around mid trail i remembered i had a empty 1gal gas can and drained some into it. It ran in 4 low with the trans in low gear for 3 or so hours under those conditions. The dipstick, when hot, is reading just above the lower hot mark right now. Doesn't appear to be pink milkshake, AFT and coolant appear fine, although AFT is browner than it would be right out of the bottle.

Currently theres a humm and small vibration that can be felt through out the car when in drive but stopped or in reverse and the engine seams to bog down just slightly when stopped but appear to go away once im moving again. Shifting seams to be fine, although it might be a little lagging on the shift during hard acceleration. It actually seams to shift smoother. Things just are not right when stopped. Something wrong with the torque converter maybe?

 

[kball]

I would suspect a cracked flex plate before a torque converter problem. I don't think there's really a good way to check that without tearing it all apart so I wouldn't jump on that yet.

So you have poor throttle response and some lag in shifts... I would check your throttle cables for excess slack. If you adjust them be careful not to over do it. Some people have had bad results after the adjustment.

When your gauges die and radio shuts off you said the engine keeps running. Smoothly or it dips like it's going to die?

You might want to get your alternator tested just to be sure. 13.9 sounds good but maybe under load it gets flaky.

Oh, and change your trans fluid. Brown is not good.

 

[Alpenglow13]

I would suspect a cracked flex plate before a torque converter problem. I don't think there's really a good way to check that without tearing it all apart so I wouldn't jump on that yet.

So you have poor throttle response and some lag in shifts... I would check your throttle cables for excess slack. If you adjust them be careful not to over do it. Some people have had bad results after the adjustment.

When your gauges die and radio shuts off you said the engine keeps running. Smoothly or it dips like it's going to die?

You might want to get your alternator tested just to be sure. 13.9 sounds good but maybe under load it gets flaky.

Oh, and change your trans fluid. Brown is not good.

throttle cables were tightened not long ago, and response seems to come back as it warms up. The electrical side of things seems to be fixed. Like i said i just installed a new diehard platinum today and im waiting on a wiring harness to install the cs-144 alternator. I think ive taken care of the electrical side of things, i just wanted to mention it incase it was somehow all related.

I wouldn't call the fluid brown, but maybe a brown tint to it. Ive done 3 or 4 drain and fills with valvoline maxlife aft over the past few months. Wondering if that was a bad decision and that i should have just done a full replacement. Any other ideas? Places to start?

 

[kball]

Sorry I read that you installed the new batt but didn't get that it fixed the electrical bugs.

Some people think drain and fills are fine some don't. I'd just keep doing drain and fills whenever you change the engine oil (or however often you feel like it).

As far as your trans sounds go, could be the flex plate, could be the converter, could be nothing. I'd say either keep driving it and see if it gets worse or get it checked out.

 

[Alpenglow13]

Sorry I read that you installed the new batt but didn't get that it fixed the electrical bugs.

Some people think drain and fills are fine some don't. I'd just keep doing drain and fills whenever you change the engine oil (or however often you feel like it).

As far as your trans sounds go, could be the flex plate, could be the converter, could be nothing. I'd say either keep driving it and see if it gets worse or get it checked out.

Yeah, I think ill check it out with my boss tomorrow at work. (small shop i work part time in) and if he doesn't know take it to a local drive train specialist. The sound just isnt right, but it shifts plenty fine. Ill update when i know more. Maybe ill go ahead and get a full flush as well...

 

[CanadianTRD]

I'll tell you right now, if you fluid is brownish at all, you are not getting good performance out of your transmission.

I would recommend a full self-service. Drop the pan (number the bolt's torque order for convenience), clean the valve bodies out with Brake Cleaner, Change the filter (aftermarket is fine), drain and fill the FULL amount of ~13L (including a bottle of Lucas transmission seal repair), confirm 3 throttle body linkages are lubed and adjusted to taught.

If you still have problems after doing all of the above, I recommend professional service. (All of the above can be done by any owner, Cost of $70-80 and 4-6 hours (half that with a helper))

 

[Alpenglow13]

I'll tell you right now, if you fluid is brownish at all, you are not getting good performance out of your transmission.

I would recommend a full self-service. Drop the pan (number the bolt's torque order for convenience), clean the valve bodies out with Brake Cleaner, Change the filter (aftermarket is fine), drain and fill the FULL amount of ~13L (including a bottle of Lucas transmission seal repair), confirm 3 throttle body linkages are lubed and adjusted to taught.

If you still have problems after doing all of the above, I recommend professional service. (All of the above can be done by any owner, Cost of $70-80 and 4-6 hours (half that with a helper))

What fluid do you recommend?

 

[Alpenglow13]

When your gauges die and radio shuts off you said the engine keeps running. Smoothly or it dips like it's going to die?

I dont remember exactly, i dont think it acted like it was going to die. Regardless I believe I've fixed the electrical side of things.

 

[CanadianTRD]

What fluid do you recommend?

In normal weather, any standard ATF is fine in my books. The change intervals would be sooner with a generic ATF. Extreme weather, particularly cold, I would only use a Synthetic. NAPA sells a good one. If you are financially inclined, Synthetic fluids in every part of your drivetrain is just smart money spent.

 

[CanadianTRD]

What fluid do you recommend?

The synthetic I get from Napa is "Total" Fluidmatic G3 SYN.

 

[Alpenglow13]

To show you all what i mean by brownish i went out and put some of the ATF that is currently in the transmission on a paper towel and poured some fresh Valvoling Maxlife ATF next to it out of the bottle. Keep in mind ive done 3 or 4, cant remember, drain and fills over the past few months with the valvoline.

<a href="http://s1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/alpenglow13/4Runner/?action=view&current=DSC00074.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/alpenglow13/4Runner/DSC00074.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

On the left is the fresh ATF, the right is whats currently in the pan

And because i dont yet have a build thread (coming soon) heres a picture from this weekend
<a href="http://s1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/alpenglow13/4Runner/?action=view&current=DSC00059.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/alpenglow13/4Runner/DSC00059.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Thanks for your help guys, hopefully i can figure something out.