Erratic Timing w/ new TPS

[KHoffRunner]

Long story short: I've been chasing an issue that's causing the truck to have no power in its lower RPM bands. It feels if it sputter when stepping on the throttle. On a flat road I cant get over 65mph.

I had replaced everything except a new TPS, so I thought maybe the TPS spring was sticking.

Ordered a new TPS and a multimeter. I followed the instructions on LCE (obviously not well enough). My Ohms readings were low but within spec, so i put the TB on. I think I was getting about 3.97 at WOT.

I started it and it was acting a little weird, but once it got warm it started knocking extremely bad! Unplugged the TPS and its still knocking. Put the timing light on it and timing is jumping all over the place. This thing has never knocked.

Is this all due to the TPS not being correct? I'm really at wits end because this is at the end of a code 52 chase that still isn't resolved. Honestly, I just want it running decent again for hunting season.


1992, 3VZ,5MT, 250,000 miles.

 

[ChrisOIFdoc]

Limited knowledge on the engine since I just picked up a 4runner. More of a Ford or Chevy shade tree mechanic. I did work through several issues on this 4runner though. Anyway check to see if the timing notch lines up with the 0 mark on the timing tab when the #1 piston is TDC. I read a couple of posts where the crank pully separated or twisted out of position from the key way and was causing erratic timing. Good luck

 

[ChrisOIFdoc]

Code 52 was one I chased for a while as well. Truck has 235000 miles on it and I bought it with a code 24 and 52. I'm going to swap the engine next year with a Chevy v-6 so I did a knock sensor bypass by using a 1997 4cyl s-10 knock sensor mounted to a bracket i made that bolts to the holes for the lifting bracket on the drivers side. I cut the wires to the harness and wired them to the sensor pigtail for the s-10 sensor. the black wire is the signal wire and the brown wire is the shielded ground wire. I stripped the wire I added for the ground and wrapped the bare wire around 8 inches of the signal wire and taped the hell out of it. I also replaced the AFM with one from a wrecking yard and all codes have been resolved. Hope this helps