Exhaust and manifold not good...headers anyone!!??

[popsmckracken]

Looks to me like a new manifold is going to cost more than headers. I know there are many posts regarding headers but new stuff comes out all the time. I just want a quality exhaust with a good tune that won't rust out in 5 years. I'm pulling the trigger tonight!!!! I'm counting on you ladies for some feedback...the prime directives are listed below. Thanks!!

1. EASE OF INSTALL
2. Quality of materials
3. Best set up for gains on a DYNO ..(if any)
4. Best setup for potential super charger

Hey 5HP would be nice along with couple MsPG increase!

 

[bambi_runner6]

There isn't a header out there for our motors that will be easily to install unless you plan on removing the engine or lifting it off the engine mounts to shoehorn them in.
NA, you probably might make a little more power, if any. If you plan on supercharging, remember, you'll make more power, but lose boost. I'd rather make more power on less boost, but some people are all about the max boost numbers.
OBX, JBA, and Doug Thorley are the only options for us (I believe). From what I've heard, OBXs tend to crack, but I've never had the issue in the few years I've had mine (more than half with a SC) and mine are wrapped which increase chances of cracking.Doug Thorley are probably your best bet IMO.

 

[popsmckracken]

There isn't a header out there for our motors that will be easily to install unless you plan on removing the engine or lifting it off the engine mounts to shoehorn them in.
NA, you probably might make a little more power, if any. If you plan on supercharging, remember, you'll make more power, but lose boost. I'd rather make more power on less boost, but some people are all about the max boost numbers.
OBX, JBA, and Doug Thorley are the only options for us (I believe). From what I've heard, OBXs tend to crack, but I've never had the issue in the few years I've had mine (more than half with a SC) and mine are wrapped which increase chances of cracking.Doug Thorley are probably your best bet IMO.

and sooo they aren't cheap huh? Did you install your headers yourself? did you lift the engine off the mounts ?

 

[bambi_runner6]

and sooo they aren't cheap huh? Did you install your headers yourself? did you lift the engine off the mounts ?

I should have mentioned that a 1 or 2" body lift would help immensely. I didn't have a body lift the first time I installed mine. And the first time I did them, I took the motor off the mounts and used an engine hoist to lift it and maneuver it. When I replaced my engine recently I made sure to install the headers before reinstalling the motor haha
It's the crossover pipe that is the real PITA. It's just hard to fit it between the valve covers and the body of the truck.

 

[popsmckracken]

I should have mentioned that a 1 or 2" body lift would help immensely. I didn't have a body lift the first time I installed mine. And the first time I did them, I took the motor off the mounts and used an engine hoist to lift it and maneuver it. When I replaced my engine recently I made sure to install the headers before reinstalling the motor haha
It's the crossover pipe that is the real PITA. It's just hard to fit it between the valve covers and the body of the truck.

i WAS CONSIDERING A 1-1/2 INCH BODY LIFT. I feel like the 2 inch would make my stinger and rear bumper look low...?? Could you recommend a kit?

 

[bambi_runner6]

i WAS CONSIDERING A 1-1/2 INCH BODY LIFT. I feel like the 2 inch would make my stinger and rear bumper look low...?? Could you recommend a kit?

I don't know if I know of a company that sells 1-1/2" body lifts for our trucks (I'm sure there are). I work at Toytec Lifts, so I'll do a shameless plug and mention we carry 1 and 2" body lifts haha Your rear bumper will lift with the body, keeping the gap between bumper and body normal. I have a tube front bumper so I think I can get away with a 2" gap between bumper and body better than a plate bumper can. If you're already thinking a 1-1/2" body lift, IMO going a half inch bigger isn't going to make a huge difference

 

[73Duster440]

i WAS CONSIDERING A 1-1/2 INCH BODY LIFT. I feel like the 2 inch would make my stinger and rear bumper look low...?? Could you recommend a kit?

I don't know if I know of a company that sells 1-1/2" body lifts for our trucks (I'm sure there are). I work at Toytec Lifts, so I'll do a shameless plug and mention we carry 1 and 2" body lifts haha Your rear bumper will lift with the body, keeping the gap between bumper and body normal. I have a tube front bumper so I think I can get away with a 2" gap between bumper and body better than a plate bumper can. If you're already thinking a 1-1/2" body lift, IMO going a half inch bigger isn't going to make a huge difference

A forum member makes them from 0.5"-2" height in 0.5" increments and I'm gonna pick one up from him if/when I need it
[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]
Link to his T4R.org thread page:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-suspension-wheels-tires/163429-fs-3rd-gen-large-body-lifts.html

[MENTION=106741]bambi_runner6[/MENTION]
Would you buy the OBX headers again? I have been considering them

 

[Formidable]

I thought you can't do headers with a body lift?

TRD - 304 stainless
OBX - 304 stainless TRD copies
DT headers - ceramic coated mild steel tubing and flanges

I just got the eBay TRD headers for the T100 from Bev Smith Toyota. Will need to modify the center pipe since it's made for single cat. Will post once installed. Was very close to ordering OBX.

 

[popsmckracken]

I thought you can't do headers with a body lift?

TRD - 304 stainless
OBX - 304 stainless TRD copies
DT headers - ceramic coated mild steel tubing and flanges

I just got the eBay TRD headers for the T100 from Bev Smith Toyota. Will need to modify the center pipe since it's made for single cat. Will post once installed. Was very close to ordering OBX.

Yeah I just read that...so no body lift with ANY headers?

 

[Rock_Rat]

Yeah I just read that...so no body lift with ANY headers?

Why not? Where did you hear that from? I have a 1" ToyTec lift and TRD headers. Slight mod for the first Magnaflow cat to mate up.

Ceramic Stainless is th away to go - DT.

TRD Headers on 1" body lift

 

[shootmymime]

you guys are right. i make body lifts ( Fatpatbodylifts.com ) and 1/2" -2" in every .5" increments

people say installing headers are much easier with a body lift because the cross over pipe is in there very close fit, it is possible and people tend to cut the cross over pipe to get it out (with no body lift)

also getting to the manifold bolts are much easier to get to through the wheel well with an impact gun and buzz the nuts right off. again that is with a body lift to make the room.

 

[popsmckracken]

Why not? Where did you hear that from? I have a 1" ToyTec lift and TRD headers. Slight mod for the first Magnaflow cat to mate up.

Ceramic Stainless is th away to go - DT.

TRD Headers on 1" body lift

On the Doug Thorley site it says that headers cant be used with a body lift which sucks because I just ordered the Toytec 2 inch lift kit on advice I just received on this thread. I suppose I'll have to give them a call to find out why.

 

[Rock_Rat]

[MENTION=17987]popsmckracken[/MENTION] I just did a quick search on the site and came up with this thread at the top. Give the OP a quick shout and see what , if any problems he encountered with the DT's and his lift. There's a lot of other threads out there on DT headers on 3.4's. Have fun with the installation (enter sarcasm here). After the install you'll enjoy them.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/139174-headers-fit-my-2002-4runner.html

 

[JackedYota]

I have the OBX headers and so far have had no problems out of them (only 5000 miles). I installed at the same time as doing an engine swap so it made it that much easier, I would hate to do it inside the engine bay. I also have the stock manifolds with no cracks if you want to pay shipping.

 

[shootmymime]

I have the OBX headers and so far have had no problems out of them (only 5000 miles). I installed at the same time as doing an engine swap so it made it that much easier, I would hate to do it inside the engine bay.

how did you guys do the collector flange? u know where it bolts to the cats.

 

[Formidable]

How was fitment?

I have the OBX headers and so far have had no problems out of them (only 5000 miles). I installed at the same time as doing an engine swap so it made it that much easier, I would hate to do it inside the engine bay. I also have the stock manifolds with no cracks if you want to pay shipping.

 

[JackedYota]

how did you guys do the collector flange? u know where it bolts to the cats.

I had an old cat laying around and cut the flange off and made my own down pipe but about to redo the whole system. Thinking of putting a magnaflow muffler and 2.5" the whole way.

 

[JackedYota]

How was fitment?

It was kind of a pain getting the crossover fitment correct and it was on an engine stand, but no leaks thus far. I do recommend getting different flange gaskets where they bolt to the heads as the OBX ones didn't fit at all.

 

[AStraughn1]

I just purchased a set of DT Headers for my 2018 4R OFP and am trying to make sure I understand everything I need to do to SAFELY install them with no long term problems. I got the long tube headers from Doug Thorley, and per their instructions bought a URD O2 Simulator. I planned on bringing those pieces of hardware to a professional performance shop to install. I got specific instructions from the Sales Manager from Doug Thorley but I am trying to get a good gauge to know if there is anything I missed. If I install the headers, with an O2 SIM is that all I need for it to be safely installed for the long run? I had heard from a local shop (which contradicts Doug Thorley directions) that an O2 sim isn't sufficient for the long term and I need to get it tuned. Does anyone have some thoughts on all of this and give some advice as to how I should proceed? Also I did not see on DT website that you cannot use headers with a lift kit, I was looking at either Toytec or Icon suspension lift kit. Am I understanding correctly that I could not install both successfully?

 

[sleepydad]

I just purchased a set of DT Headers for my 2018 4R OFP and am trying to make sure I understand everything I need to do to SAFELY install them with no long term problems. I got the long tube headers from Doug Thorley, and per their instructions bought a URD O2 Simulator. I planned on bringing those pieces of hardware to a professional performance shop to install. I got specific instructions from the Sales Manager from Doug Thorley but I am trying to get a good gauge to know if there is anything I missed. If I install the headers, with an O2 SIM is that all I need for it to be safely installed for the long run? I had heard from a local shop (which contradicts Doug Thorley directions) that an O2 sim isn't sufficient for the long term and I need to get it tuned. Does anyone have some thoughts on all of this and give some advice as to how I should proceed? Also I did not see on DT website that you cannot use headers with a lift kit, I was looking at either Toytec or Icon suspension lift kit. Am I understanding correctly that I could not install both successfully?

They are taking body lift, suspension lift should be no issue

I have the DT sitting on my workbench waiting for an engine from yotashop. My engine is out so heads was a no brainer while engine is out. I have heard the trans dip stick tube needs to be bent. I’m just going to have my exhaust guy make a custom cat for me. $300 for a brand new custom cat is not a big deal. There is no reason the O2 front and rear will need something special as long as they are working now.

I will be doing a vid of my project. It will likely take me a month