Exhaust bolt removal

RumHam26

New member
Hi folks - my muffler just kick the bucket. Now I'm left with a tailpipe corroded onto a short length of exhaust pipe. The bolts on the flange from tailpipe to muffler are completely destroyed from rust and I am hoping for some advice on how to go about removing them. The hottest torch I have is a Mapp blowtorch. I also have access to an angle grinder and drill. What's the best course of action here?
 

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Thanks durk - I am completely new to this type of work. When you say grinder - does thate grind down the bolts and nuts flush then drill out the holes?

I want to salvage the tailpipe to connect to the new muffler - in case that wasn't clear.
 
Thanks durk - I am completely new to this type of work. When you say grinder - does thate grind down the bolts and nuts flush then drill out the holes?

I want to salvage the tailpipe to connect to the new muffler - in case that wasn't clear.

Yeah, don't count on saving it. I'd try a drift punch and BFH on the piece of bolt before I drilled, but that flange may be beyond repair. If it is not, you will also need a new gasket.
 
Hi folks - my muffler just kick the bucket. Now I'm left with a tailpipe corroded onto a short length of exhaust pipe. The bolts on the flange from tailpipe to muffler are completely destroyed from rust and I am hoping for some advice on how to go about removing them. The hottest torch I have is a Mapp blowtorch. I also have access to an angle grinder and drill. What's the best course of action here?

It doesn't appear that there is much of a flange to salvage. Keeping this in mind any reputable exhaust shop can weld a new flange for next to nothing and/or re-flare the pipe for you.
 
I know it seems logical to salvage the tail pipe because it's in good shape -- except for the flange. But addapting it will be more hassle, you'll spend a bunch of time and almost as much money, and you'll still have a cobbled together system.

You can get a whole cat/back kit here. It includes the gaskets, but you'll have to source 4 nut/bolt/washer sets from the hardware store. Don't bother with stainless or grade-8 -- just get standard. If you ever need to remove them, you cut them off and replace them -- that's standard practice for exhaust work.

Assemble it using this.

And you'll have a proper system that will last you years.
 
It's actually pretty easy. Let your 4Runner get to operating temp so the exhaust gets nice and hot. Throw some penetrating oil on the bolts and nuts. Repeat this a few times over the span of a day or two. When you're ready to work use penetrating oil again and grab some sharp vice grips or pliers. Work them free and hammer them out if necessary.

Pics here are from my pre cat flange. The gasket I bought was not enough. Ended up adding the heavier gauge aluminum foil in addition to the donut gasket. Have had the foil as a gasket for about 5 months now, still no exhaust leaks LOL
 

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Hi folks - my muffler just kick the bucket. Now I'm left with a tailpipe corroded onto a short length of exhaust pipe. The bolts on the flange from tailpipe to muffler are completely destroyed from rust and I am hoping for some advice on how to go about removing them. The hottest torch I have is a Mapp blowtorch. I also have access to an angle grinder and drill. What's the best course of action here?

The tailpipe is cheap enough (and easy enough) to replace. 1 muffler, 1 tailpipe, 2 gaskets (1 in front of the muffler and 1 behind). About $200 for the SS Walker, which most AP stores should have.

Just cut the pipe or the bolts off right at the flange behind the muffler. Super easy job.
 

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