Exhaust manifold leak/tick

This is a good point, I only know this stuff because we run 8000 KW backup gereators for our steam plant (and I took 4 years of engineering). Warm up time before they go onload (unless in an emergency) is 15 minutes and cooldown time (offload) is 20 minutes. So I use this principle on my V8 and always warm it up and cool it down with a few minutes of idle and never have problems. Even at a gas station I never see anybody with large engines let it cool for a minute or two, as for starting up at a gas station, its already warm so there's reason to wait, just start and go.

As for william asking what this has to do with anything, this is the root cause for these issues people are having.

Okay, so I respect your 4 years of engineering experience and the line of work you perform, but don't you think Toyota and and any other car manufacture take the "normal American" driving techniques into considerations when engineering a car? Maybe I should look in my manual, but I would venture to guess that the manual doesn't say to let your engine idle for a few second before shutting it off. I would only do this if I had a turbo. However, I bet the manual says something about letting the car warm up for about 1 minute before driving in cold conditions. Anything over 1 minute is useless, because by driving conservatively you're warming your car up.

Another thing to consider is that most American probably let there car idle way too long during cold morning start ups if they park outside. And I think this is worst.
 
Your probubly right that the manual doesn't say too much about letting it warm up and definatly nothing about letting her cool down, but never the less I am sure there is a bunch of other "good habits" that are not included or mentioned in the manual. It does not say "dont pull on your steering wheel as hard as possible", but there are people that do it anyhow.

Like everything, its all about money and profit, Toyota doesnt want everybody to know everything or they wouldn't be making a near as much as they do in repairs.
 
I just reread what u wrote after half a case of beer and wanted to correct your assumption... it's 4 years engineering university and 8 years experience in the field.

I really just wanted to give a friendly tip to those who are having the problem, as well as those who are not, to prevent it from happening in the future.
 
Letting your car warm up is a myth. Drive easy until at operating temp. Simple. Please show me facts stating what you are saying.
 
I brought this discussion up at coffee time this morning with 4 steam engineers, 2 gas engineers, 1 mechanicle engineer and 2 automation engineers... We all agree:

small car engines - start and go
any block bigger then 3.5 or 4 liters (aluminium or cast steel dependant) - warm up and cool down min 30s
any size engine with a turbo cool down is most important

Also we all agree that simple abuse on the engines is the main reason for the problems noted in the thread, ie redlineing, not taking it easy until up to, not using block heaters in the winter and so on... Take it for what its worth.
 
I brought this discussion up at coffee time this morning with 4 steam engineers, 2 gas engineers, 1 mechanicle engineer and 2 automation engineers... We all agree:

small car engines - start and go
any block bigger then 3.5 or 4 liters (aluminium or cast steel dependant) - warm up and cool down min 30s
any size engine with a turbo cool down is most important

Also we all agree that simple abuse on the engines is the main reason for the problems noted in the thread, ie redlineing, not taking it easy until up to, not using block heaters in the winter and so on... Take it for what its worth.

Worthless, IMO. I have 400k combined on the V8 drive train (99 & 04 Cruiser & 4Runner) with ZERO issues. Common sense goes a long way. Oh yea, and no cracked manifolds either.
 
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Thats great for you clockwork, you are one of the lucky guys without this issue. However I will still maintain my thoughts and recomendations for the rest of you on this one as I have a table of engineers who back me up 100%.

As for "common sence".... post that phrase very cautiously, its not as "common" as you might think it is.
 
I know what you mean by letting it warm up but it seems like this is more common than it should be. I've had 30+ cars and never had an issue with exhaust manifolds before. I am very glad I had it covered under my certified warranty. I am going to pickup my 4Runner tomorrow. They had issues of bolts/studs snapping off and it took them almost 2 full days of labor. They were able to get all the bolts or studs out ok, just took awhile. I felt better when my service adviser said he gave this job to a certain tech because they have been there for a long time and is very particular about doing it correctly.
 
I may have the first set by end of Sep I will post pics.

Any word on this? I have a guy in N.H. that says he cam build them too, he builds custom turbo "headers", but I need to find a pair of used manifold so he can use them as a guide.
 
I've had the exhuast leak sound (and I have the start up knock that goes away in maybe 30 seconds too, but that's not what I'm talking about) for a while. Got worse over the winter, now I can't stand to drive it with the window down. Gotta fix it.

So I crawl under today with a stethoscope and a spray bottle, and check all the "easy" gaskets from the bottom of the stock headers (manifolds) back. No luck.

Come here and start searching....this seriously f'ing blows. If I have to spend $1000-$2000 to fix an exhaust leak at 78k miles, my Toyota doll is getting mauled with some .45 rounds...

Best practices for testing fuel pulsation dampener vs that crack in the exhaust manifold buried under the flange?
 
AFTER MARKET Exhaust Manifold

Ladies and germs

Pacesetter and Magnaflow makes after market exhaust manifolds for the 4.7, only thing you have to mod is the air injection if you have an 05 as they were made for the 03-04 which apparently do not have air injection and the 05 does.
I ordered mine from Amazon, she arrived 3 days later.
Stealer manifold gasket is cheaper than some @ $27(yeah I kinow SHOCKING) in comparison to $77 for some.

Heres the link for the drivers side on Amazon, prices is $230 for each side
I beleive the passenger side part number is 750050.

Amazon.com: Pacesetter 750051 Direct-Fit Manifold with Catalytic Converter: Automotive

and heres the link for the Magnaflow

MagnaFlow Catalytic Converters - 49-STATE & CANADA Catalytic Converters For Trucks, Suv's, American Muscle, Diesel, & Sport Compact Vehicles

Now if we could just find some awesome person that has done the re&re labour and made a fargin video cause apparently it's a serious pain in the family jewels to get this SOB outta there.
 
Ever since i bought my 04 4.0 , ive been going nuts. I need to get it inspected but the cel is on. I was hearing the ticking sound but just thought it was the valves. I changed the two lower oxygen sensors and that was not it. I sprayed manifold with soap water turned it on and after a few seconds bubbles started to come out out of one side of the manifold. My 4 runner is the v6 and it has 87k miles. from what i read, it is not covered under warrantee.

i will try and tighten the screws and see if that helps a bit. I hope its not cracked and its just the gasket. From the looks of it, looks like a pita job.
 
after going back and fourth trying to figure out what the problem is, ive now decided to just buy the new manifolds with the catalytic converters. I found both left and right with nuts and studs and gaskets for less than 600 dollars shipped to my house.
 
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The Pacesetter that I had installed on the driver side is still working perfectly. For the price I'm very happy so far.
 
Ladies and germs

Pacesetter and Magnaflow makes after market exhaust manifolds for the 4.7, only thing you have to mod is the air injection if you have an 05 as they were made for the 03-04 which apparently do not have air injection and the 05 does.
I ordered mine from Amazon, she arrived 3 days later.
Stealer manifold gasket is cheaper than some @ $27(yeah I kinow SHOCKING) in comparison to $77 for some.

Heres the link for the drivers side on Amazon, prices is $230 for each side
I beleive the passenger side part number is 750050.

Amazon.com: Pacesetter 750051 Direct-Fit Manifold with Catalytic Converter: Automotive

and heres the link for the Magnaflow

MagnaFlow Catalytic Converters - 49-STATE & CANADA Catalytic Converters For Trucks, Suv's, American Muscle, Diesel, & Sport Compact Vehicles

Now if we could just find some awesome person that has done the re&re labour and made a fargin video cause apparently it's a serious pain in the family jewels to get this SOB outta there.

Any update on this?

I'm pretty sure that I have the same issue with a leaking manifold (or both) on my 2005. I looked into the pacesetter's and there was one review on amazon that wasn't very good (said the welds were crappy). There was also just one side still in stock. Not sure if that is temporary or if they stopped production on them. Any more info on the modification required for the air injection? I'm guessing it is just welding the inlet on there.

I'm not sure if the magnaflow ones are worth the extra money though at roughly twice as much. It does seem that magnaflow makes a direct replacement for the 2005 though. Their prices are nearly what the OEM ones are from the dealer.
 
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Would be better if someone knows if some headers from the Tundra or Tacoma would fit in. Anyone know anything about that??
 

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