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[beerstash]

I seafoamed the gas tank and oil, pulled the CEL- 120 and 136. TPS or ECM and bank 1, sensor 2 for the O2 sensor. Would seafoaming the intake take care of any of these issues? $55 for the the TPS, $110 for the O2 sensor, and $360 or $470 for the ECM is steep. For driving sakes, I have no issues other than idling at 1100- 1200 RPMs every now and then and get 250- 300 miles per tank. Any ideas or 'tricks' I can do? Thanks in advance

 

[Nelsonmd]

It's not the ECM. That is a blanket solution they put as the last resort for a ton of colds.

You can get the O2 sensor for less than $110, look on amazon. TPS can be had for $45.

 

[techno]

Yep, don't replace the ECM, it's the sensors that go 99.9% of the time.

The seafoam treatment won't fix the issues, in fact it can sometimes cause them by contaminating the exhaust gases and sensors with the crap that is cleaned out.

 

[beerstash]

Appreciate it guys. I will seafoam the intake and in a few days replace the TPS and the O2 sensor. How hard is it to replace that particular O2 sensor?

 

[the great him]

dont replace the tps yet... do the o2 first, your bad o2 reading could be sending a signal to the ecm/ecu and telling it to adjust the tps, and if the tps is trying to regulate things but cant fix it-cause your o2 is bad and wont read properly, then the tps is just fine. how many miles do you have on your truck and has the front o2 ever been changed? -dont replace the rear o2 either it dose nothing other than monitor the cat, to tell you if thats working or not -it wont affect how your rig runs.

personally first off i would just clear all the codes and run the truck for a few days and see if they come back...

 

[beerstash]

Its a 97 with almost 160k on the odometer. dont know if its been changed or not. I got early January with 143k. That does make sense with changing the O2 sensor change first. Thanks

 

[techno]

What The Kid is saying is true, but the best thing for you to do is properly diagnose the issue. While changing sensors willy-nilly can solve things, I highly reccomend that you test the TPS and the o2 with a multimeter/tester. It's extremely easy, will give you peace of mind, personal satifaction and the confidence to do future trouble shooting and repairs.

 

[the great him]

im not saying dont test them, but the o2 probably needs to be changed -toyota recommends changing them after 90-100k. and there is no real accurate way of testing the o2 sensor for its proper function, sure you can check it with a multi meter, but that reading you get will change from cold to hot... so unless you have a plan on how to check it when its piping hot your testing of the o2 will not be accurate. -if in question about it change it after the recommended time interval. now the tps can be tested and cleaned, i always thought that they had to be set to a specific reading and that it wasnt advisable to take them off, but i just learned (on here) that you can remove them and clean them and they i guess "self set" or "self adjust" ...? idk anyhow yeah

 

[Nelsonmd]

im not saying dont test them, but the o2 probably needs to be changed -toyota recommends changing them after 90-100k. and there is no real accurate way of testing the o2 sensor for its proper function, sure you can check it with a multi meter, but that reading you get will change from cold to hot... so unless you have a plan on how to check it when its piping hot your testing of the o2 will not be accurate. -if in question about it change it after the recommended time interval. now the tps can be tested and cleaned, i always thought that they had to be set to a specific reading and that it wasnt advisable to take them off, but i just learned (on here) that you can remove them and clean them and they i guess "self set" or "self adjust" ...? idk anyhow yeah

Yeah, this is true. The FSM explains how to test the O2 sensors (and yes, they do need to be at temperature), but like the kid said, the testing you can do is limited unless you have the special reader that actually reads the signal real time. It is a common enough problem that the vast majority of people (and probably dealerships) don't bother testing and just replace it.

 

[techno]

Fair enough. I tested mine at both hot and cold temps after I had a cel and sure enough, it failed. The cold testing is easy, the hot testing is easy too, well, at least it was for me. Just do it when the engine is up to normal operating temp and wear welders gloves. And before you ask, I have access to a thermal imaging camera and I checked the exhaust pipe temp, it was 1300°F, which is close enough.