Extended crank — cheap fix?

OrRunner

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My 2002 t4r limited has a consistent extended crank, usually 2-3 seconds if cold. After perusing the forums it would appear that this is usually due to a faulty check valve in the fuel pump causing fuel pressure loss while the vehicle sits. The usual fix is to replace the fuel pump (around $250 from camelback). So here’s my question for the gurus- would installing an in line check valve accomplish the same thing with a lot less expense? I’m assuming it would be best to install it as close as possible to the fuel pump? Any particular locations you would recommend? Help me save some money and time guys!
 
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You can't install a check valve in the fuel lines since they are under high pressure. Only a matter of time before whatever hose clamps you use would leak.

All fuel line connections are made using compression nuts.
 
For now cycle your key on three or so times to let the pump pressurize the fuel lines before you try and start it. If it's a bad check valve you will know.


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You can't install a check valve in the fuel lines since they are under high pressure. Only a matter of time before whatever hose clamps you use would leak.

All fuel line connections are made using compression nuts.

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-2390...MImrKBluTi3QIVDH5-Ch0bmAGcEAQYBSABEgIROPD_BwE

This appears like it would work in our high pressure system, supposedly up to 500 psi. Is the fuel system on our trucks all hard lines or are there rubber sections as well? Assuming the check valve could work in our application, does anyone know the best place to install it?
 
For now cycle your key on three or so times to let the pump pressurize the fuel lines before you try and start it. If it's a bad check valve you will know.


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I’m sure it’s the check valve. Had a dead battery the the other morning and tried multiple starts where it wouldn’t turn over. Put in a new battery and it fire on the first crank presumably due to the pump being primed on the attempted starts. That’s what made me think of installing a separate in line check calve rather than dropping the tank.

Does anyone know if the denso pump mentioned earlier is the same as oem? Does anyone know the correct part# for an 02 3.4? If I can get the correct oem pump for $70 I’ll probably just do bite the bullet and drop the tank, the tooyots unit at $250 is a bit pricey for me.
 
If you're replacing a fuel pump buy a Denso from Amazon/RockAuto. It's the exact same thing you get from the Toyota dealer. I've done this on two different Toyotas and it's always the same part. The parts guy at my Toyota dealer even told me to buy a Denso because it's the same thing for a quarter of the price.

I've been running a Denso in mine for 40k miles now, no issues at all. I replaced mine as preventative maintenance at 220k.
 
Does anyone know if the denso pump mentioned earlier is the same as oem? Does anyone know the correct part# for an 02 3.4? If I can get the correct oem pump for $70 I’ll probably just do bite the bullet and drop the tank, the tooyots unit at $250 is a bit pricey for me.

This denso fuel pump 950-0100 I got from amazon has the same part number on it as my original OEM pump.

In the first post 3rd picture down, I'm holding the new denso 950-0100 fuel pump from amazon next to my original. You an see the part numbers are the same.
 
https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-2390...MImrKBluTi3QIVDH5-Ch0bmAGcEAQYBSABEgIROPD_BwE

This appears like it would work in our high pressure system, supposedly up to 500 psi. Is the fuel system on our trucks all hard lines or are there rubber sections as well? Assuming the check valve could work in our application, does anyone know the best place to install it?

I don't doubt the check valve, I doubt how you will hold it into the rubber supply line without the hoses bursting off or leaking.
 
I’m sure it’s the check valve. Had a dead battery the the other morning and tried multiple starts where it wouldn’t turn over. Put in a new battery and it fire on the first crank presumably due to the pump being primed on the attempted starts. That’s what made me think of installing a separate in line check calve rather than dropping the tank.

Does anyone know if the denso pump mentioned earlier is the same as oem? Does anyone know the correct part# for an 02 3.4? If I can get the correct oem pump for $70 I’ll probably just do bite the bullet and drop the tank, the tooyots unit at $250 is a bit pricey for me.

Something that should be noted - if the check valve is failing or has failed in the pump, it is not infrequently the case in general (not just with Toyotas but all EFI cars) that the pump itself is going to fail in the not too distant future. Probably not a bad idea to just buy the Denso pump (Denso is the OEM supplier) and be done with it as the Denso pump is surprisingly inexpensive.
 

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