External Tranny Cooler in Cold Climate?

K

KPD 98T4R

New member
Hi, I just bought a 1998 4runner 4x4, V6, Auto.

I've been doing a bunch of research on this forum, and I've decided that I would like to install a B&M 70624 tranny cooler, and bypass the OEM cooler in the rad to prevent the "Pink Milkshake".

The concern that I have is over cooling the transmission in the winter. I live in Canada, and temps range from up to 100 deg F in the summer to -40 in the winter (ave. winter temps are more like 0 to -20).

I realize that B&M coolers have a bypass for cold weather. How effective is the bypass? would it keep the trans from over cooling in sustained highway driving?
Is there anyone who lives in a cold climate that has made this mod? Could you share your trans temps?

Thanks for reading this. your opinions are much appreciated.
 
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In my opinion, even if you bypass the stock cooler, the rad can still fail and endanger your engine. The proper fix is to replace the rad, and I'd only add the external cooler after doing that, and only if it was needed (live somewhere hot, do any towing, lots of hills, etc).
 
Get a cooler with a LPD, that the 70264 has, so that the ATF bypasses the cooler until it reaches operating temp (at least 170 F).
 
IMO the 70264 is overkill for canada. For really cold climates,the best option is to replace the radiator, 2nd choice would be the smaller 70268.
 
Rad life expectancy?

I was going to ask this question this morning as I am also in Canada. If replacing the rad what is the safe life expectancy in either milage or time? Thanks
 
I put my cooler install on hold, I live in fort mcmurray so yep temps are way colder that what you guys see,
also the local Napa wants to charge me $25 a foot for 3/8" tubing:gun6:
 
KPD 98T4R said:
Hi, I just bought a 1998 4runner 4x4, V6, Auto.

I've been doing a bunch of research on this forum, and I've decided that I would like to install a B&M 70624 tranny cooler, and bypass the OEM cooler in the rad to prevent the "Pink Milkshake".

The concern that I have is over cooling the transmission in the winter. I live in Canada, and temps range from up to 100 deg F in the summer to -40 in the winter (ave. winter temps are more like 0 to -20).

I realize that B&M coolers have a bypass for cold weather. How effective is the bypass? would it keep the trans from over cooling in sustained highway driving?
Is there anyone who lives in a cold climate that has made this mod? Could you share your trans temps?

Thanks for reading this. your opinions are much appreciated.
Click to expand...

I'm in Calgary and I run an external cooler, I was a tad concerned last year when I installed mine and ran it through winter. I did not have a problem with it, and if I took it on the highway to go skiing i'd just put a piece of cardboard to cover 1/2 of the cooler.
 
coffeeguy said:
I was going to ask this question this morning as I am also in Canada. If replacing the rad what is the safe life expectancy in either milage or time? Thanks
Click to expand...

Well right now I feel I'm pushing it a little but my original radiator is about 13 years old and I have 169k miles on it but when I replace my radiator I feel like it should easily be fine for another 10+ years and an easy 100,000 miles. It is more about time than miles and drier climates could factor into it also.
 
I run a large hayden cooler. I have a Scan Gauge II for my tranny temp gauge. Even when temps are below zero out here, the tranny will run around 130* for the most part. After 2-3 stop lights its already above 100* anyway. Even when frozen at start up.

People seem to think that the radiator helps keep the tranny warmer. It doesn't. Big John has a 2000 with the same Scan Gauge and no external cooler. We run basically the same temps year round on our rigs. I do tow a lot more than he does though, which is why I have it.
 
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Jungoes said:
I put my cooler install on hold, I live in fort mcmurray so yep temps are way colder that what you guys see,
also the local Napa wants to charge me $25 a foot for 3/8" tubing:gun6:
Click to expand...

WHAT??!! I bought my hose at the local NAPA in July for $ 3.90 a foot. Part # was H1937, 3/8 Oil Cooler Hose. The list price is 6.07, but I have an account with them, hence the 3.90. Many car clubs, schools, unions etc. have discounts with Napa. Or, if you wanna be shady, you can tell them that you work for Esso or Petro Can or something and buy it through the account, but pay in cash.
 
RonMAIDEN said:
Well right now I feel I'm pushing it a little but my original radiator is about 13 years old and I have 169k miles on it but when I replace my radiator I feel like it should easily be fine for another 10+ years and an easy 100,000 miles. It is more about time than miles and drier climates could factor into it also.
Click to expand...

You can probably get away with it with the mild climate in CO. I got the 4runner in Ft Collins last year and now Ive got 177K on it with original radiator.
And honestly Im really not that worried about it.

Question:

Isnt it just one seal that fails, causing the pink milkshake? Can that seal be replaced without buying the whole radiator?
 
IanB said:
In my opinion, even if you bypass the stock cooler, the rad can still fail and endanger your engine. The proper fix is to replace the rad, and I'd only add the external cooler after doing that, and only if it was needed (live somewhere hot, do any towing, lots of hills, etc).
Click to expand...

This is a little extreme, the strawberry milkshake leak will not cause you to lose any coolant if you plug the outlets when you bypass. Replacing the rad is a good idea, but don't think that just bypassing is endangering your rig.

Nunyabiz said:
You could put a blanket over the trans cooler in the winter like Truckers do to their radiators.
Click to expand...

This is a great idea, partially because it kind of forces you to watch your temps a bit, and tailor the cooling level you your environment. That is something you just may have to do if you live in that cold an area.

AddictedOffroad said:
People seem to think that the radiator helps keep the tranny warmer. It doesn't. Big John has a 2000 with the same Scan Gauge and no external cooler. We run basically the same temps year round on our rigs. I do tow a lot more than he does though, which is why I have it.
Click to expand...

This is a good point, warming from the rad has been talked about alot around here, and everyone that has watched their tranny temps at warm-up has not noticed any better warm up times with the stock cooler (though this is admittedly a fairly poor way to test it)

FWIW, I run the 70268 here is Boston, and I pretty much run the same temps as addicted does in the winter.

If you are concerned about the tranny temps, then the best thing you can do is get a scangauge to watch the tranny temp.
 
Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Is there any reason why the smaller cooler (70628) would be better than the larger one (70624) in cold weather, since they both have a bypass? If the only advantage is that it costs less, then I would rather spend a few extra dollars for that extra peace of mind when it is really hot.

I would definately get a scan gauge, but my 4runner is a 98. from what I've read, scan gauge only works in 99 and newer.
I was hoping to not install a tranny temp gauge if I don't have to.
 
1985taylor1925 said:
You can probably get away with it with the mild climate in CO. I got the 4runner in Ft Collins last year and now Ive got 177K on it with original radiator.
And honestly Im really not that worried about it.

Question:

Isnt it just one seal that fails, causing the pink milkshake? Can that seal be replaced without buying the whole radiator?
Click to expand...

Anyone know the answer to my question?
 
1985taylor1925 said:
Anyone know the answer to my question?
Click to expand...


The problem is that you can't get to the part that fails without breaking open the radiator. It's not something that goes back together very well, lol.

There are a couple of o-ring style seals that start leaking. They can start leaking for two reasons: the metal around them corrodes and loses it's integrity, or the o-ring itself gets brittle or breaks. Either way, it's inside the radiator and can't be accessed without cutting open the radiator.
 
1985taylor1925 said:
Anyone know the answer to my question?
Click to expand...

It is the fitting in the bottom of the radiator where the cooler line exits that fails. It corrodes and falls apart. I'm not sure it can be replaced reliably. A new Koyo radiator is about $110, and will give you another 10 years of peace of mind. Just do it.
 
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