F**K!!! It happened to me.

[domstriker]

Pink milkshake happened to my 01 ltd. I got it about two months ago, used with 138k miles. It's at about 141k right now. No warranty.

Tranny fluid is in the radiator overflow tank. ****!!!!

What should I do now? Have it towed to garage?

 

[Qyota]

Tranny fluid is in the radiator overflow tank. ****!!!!

You do know that Toyota coolant is red, right? Just checking...

Did you confirm your problem in both the radiator and the transmission (check the dipstick for foam, smell of coolant, etc.)?

 

[brian2sun]

Damn that strawberry fairy. Sorry to hear that dude. Yes, it wll need to be towed to where it's going to be worked on. It's a 50/50 chance that the tranny will recover. It depends a lot on how long you drove it like that and how long you let the coolant sit in the tranny. Hopefully more ATF got into the cooling system rather than coolant getting into the tranny.

You need to flush that thing ASAP with several quarts of cheap ATF (I'd guess about 20 at least for the 1st flush). Flush it until it starts running clean ATF, then drive it a couple days and flush again. Some have had to flush 3 or 4 times depending on how much coolant got in the tranny and sometimes it'll still take a shit in the not-so-distant future. If it runs ok afterwards, I'd flush it once more and put in quality ATF.

You'll need a new radiator and a cooling system flush as well. If you decide to do an aftermarket tranny cooler this time around, you can save $$ by getting a radiator from a 5 speed 4runner (no internal tranny cooler so it's cheaper). Or if you buy an auto radiator and use the internal tranny cooler, you'll be ok for now but it could happen again in a few years.

Unfortunately, there's no guarantee after you do this that the tranny will be saved so some people opt for a new/used tranny right off the bat so they don't spend $$ on a bunch of ATF and flushing only to be screwed. It's a judgement call that you'll have to make. Good luck man, keep us posted.

 

[domstriker]

You do know that Toyota coolant is red, right? Just checking...

Did you confirm your problem in both the radiator and the transmission (check the dipstick for foam, smell of coolant, etc.)?

Yup...

Definitely ATF in the overflow tank. Definitely creamy/pink on the dipstick.

Just went out and it looks like ATF is no longer in the overflow tank. I'm guessing it went back in the radiator or the tranny.

 

[domstriker]

Damn that strawberry fairy. Sorry to hear that dude. Yes, it wll need to be towed to where it's going to be worked on. It's a 50/50 chance that the tranny will recover. It depends a lot on how long you drove it like that and how long you let the coolant sit in the tranny. Hopefully more ATF got into the cooling system rather than coolant getting into the tranny.

You need to flush that thing ASAP with several quarts of cheap ATF (I'd guess about 20 at least for the 1st flush). Flush it until it starts running clean ATF, then drive it a couple days and flush again. Some have had to flush 3 or 4 times depending on how much coolant got in the tranny and sometimes it'll still take a shit in the not-so-distant future. If it runs ok afterwards, I'd flush it once more and put in quality ATF.

You'll need a new radiator and a cooling system flush as well. If you decide to do an aftermarket tranny cooler this time around, you can save $$ by getting a radiator from a 5 speed 4runner (no internal tranny cooler so it's cheaper). Or if you buy an auto radiator and use the internal tranny cooler, you'll be ok for now but it could happen again in a few years.

Unfortunately, there's no guarantee after you do this that the tranny will be saved so some people opt for a new/used tranny right off the bat so they don't spend $$ on a bunch of ATF and flushing only to be screwed. It's a judgement call that you'll have to make. Good luck man, keep us posted.

It's draining right now as I'm typing this.

When you say to flush it, should I drop the pan or just take the drain plug out?

Also, you recommend that I flush it with at least 20 qts of ATF and then drive it. Should I do anything to the radiator before driving it around to check on it?

Thanks for the help!

ETA-Just popped open the radiator cap and it's the same pink milkshake fluid in the radiator as well.

 

[daugherty83]

I flushed mine with a t-tech tranny flushing machine that does a full flush of torque converter and all with about 30 gallons of tranny fluid and still needed a new tranny after a few months. Simply draining and driving will not be enough in my opinion. I would def. put back some money and not be surprised in the least bit if the tranny does not make it in the near future. Not trying to sound down, but the coolant is just a hellish nightmare on the inside of the tranny. Seals, clutch packs, etc.. just get eaten away. Not to mention you will need to flush your block and get a new radiator as well. Good luck, and if you go completely rebuilt, new, or used, make sure and get a bypassed tranny cooler on your next one.

 

[domstriker]

I flushed mine with a t-tech tranny flushing machine that does a full flush of torque converter and all with about 30 gallons of tranny fluid and still needed a new tranny after a few months. Simply draining and driving will not be enough in my opinion. I would def. put back some money and not be surprised in the least bit if the tranny does not make it in the near future. Not trying to sound down, but the coolant is just a hellish nightmare on the inside of the tranny. Seals, clutch packs, etc.. just get eaten away. Not to mention you will need to flush your block and get a new radiator as well. Good luck, and if you go completely rebuilt, new, or used, make sure and get a bypassed tranny cooler on your next one.

Wow, man wow....

How much did you spend on the new tranny and rad?

 

[brian2sun]

Yes, you'll need to get a radiator before you can drive it around. To flush it, you should drop the pan and get as much fluid as you can out and clean the filter. Then put the pan back on and fill it with however much you drained. You can then disconnect the send and return hoses going to the radiator/stock tranny cooler and put the send hose into a bucket (the return hose must be disconnected in this case so no more contaminated fluid will go back into the tranny.

You can use the tranny's own internal pump to flush. When you start the engine, the fluid will start pumping. Just drain a qt or 2, kill it, put a qt. or 2 back in the dipstick tube and repaet the process until the ATF is running out nice and clean.

Here's a detailed write-up on flushing the tranny:
Dropping Pan And Flushing Transmission

Also, the flushing can be done with the radiator like it is because you're only running the engine for a few seconds and then killing it. Once it's flushed, get a new radiator and then you can drive it around and see if the fluid gets milky again and flush again as needed.

 

[domstriker]

Alright...Let's see if I got this right. I'm a little confused as to what order I should be doing things in.

1.) Flush tranny.

2.) Disconnect return/send hose from radiator to tranny. Flush radiator to get as much pink milkshake out of the block.

3.) Put new radiator in. Fill w/ new coolant, of course.

4.) Put new tranny filter in and replace pan.

5.) Run and flush tranny a couple of times.

Do I have that right?

 

[JohnsD90]

Sounds like a perfect time for a 5 speed swap, then you dont have to buy a tranny cooler, you are looking for a R150F or a R151F transmission.

 

[domstriker]

Sounds like a perfect time for a 5 speed swap, then you dont have to buy a tranny cooler, you are looking for a R150F or a R151F transmission.

I thought it wasn't really possible to put a manual tranny in a t4r that was originally setup for an auto tranny...

 

[JohnsD90]

I thought it wasn't really possible to put a manual tranny in a t4r that was originally setup for an auto tranny...

I know Matt Starr/Darkrunner did, i can try to get his email for ya if your interested, he said it wasnt too bad.

 

[domstriker]

I know Matt Starr/Darkrunner did, i can try to get his email for ya if your interested, he said it wasnt too bad.

It would probably be too difficult for me to do. I would rank my mechanic skills at a 6 out of 10.

Also, I just need to get this thing running ASAP as cheaply as possible. I'm really stressing out about how I'm even going to get to work tomorrow...

 

[brian2sun]

Alright...Let's see if I got this right. I'm a little confused as to what order I should be doing things in.

1.) Flush tranny.

2.) Disconnect return/send hose from radiator to tranny. Flush radiator to get as much pink milkshake out of the block.

3.) Put new radiator in. Fill w/ new coolant, of course.

4.) Put new tranny filter in and replace pan.

5.) Run and flush tranny a couple of times.

Do I have that right?

Almost, the problem is it's hard on the tranny to flush the cooling system and vise-versa with all that milkshake in there. You may want to do a machine power flush on the cooling system so the engine doesn't have to be running (as opposed to a garden hose in the inlet). Flush the cooling system with the bad tranny cooler plugged off from the outside. Then replace the radiator and leave the tranny send line off.

Then...
1) Drop the pan/replace the filter.
2) Fill with ~4 qts of cheap ATF
3) Put the send hose in a bucket (the return hose from the radiator can be hooked up)
4) Start engine (now that the cooling system is clean) and drain 1-2 qts and turn it off. It easy if you make a graduated bucket so you can keep track of exactly how much you drained so you can refill the same amount. The tranny pump will shoot out about 1 qt. every 10-15 seconds or so IIRC.\
5) When it comes out clean (probably after 16-20 qts), hook the send line back up to the new radiator/tranny cooler.
6) Check the level of the ATF with the engine running, in P, after cycling through all the gears. Make sure it's at the cold level and not at the hot. Take it for a 20-30 minute drive and recheck the same way and it should be at the hot.
7) Check the fluid several times over the next few days. As much as it sucks, I would probably drop the pan one more time and clean the new filter because it will probably catch some crap that wasn't flushed out.

The write-up I linked to tells you everything you need to know. How to clean the filter, everything. If you plan on dropping the pan twice or even 3xs if necessary, use molded cork or rubber gaskets first and then FIPG the final time. It will make it a lot easier to drop the pan the next time.

 

[domstriker]

Thanks Brian.

I'm going to try this as I don't think that I was running it that long under milkshake conditions. And I don't have $2000 to get a new tranny...

ETA-I see what you're saying about the power flush but that would require me to tow it somewhere to have it done and then tow it back home. Could I just reverse flush the cooling system and call it good?

 

[brian2sun]

I just don't like the idea of running it with all that milkshake flowing through the tranny while your cleaning the cooling system - the less you do, the more chance of saving the tranny. So, if you're not going to do a power flush, then I think it would be better to start with:

1) Drain the radiator and fill it back up with water. Then plug off the inlet and the outlet to the tranny cooler.
2) Do the flush on the tranny. But, this time with both the send and return lines off - the return line will just suck air so I don't see any problem with that, just don't let it fall into the oil or anything). Plugging it off might not be good for the pump, I don't know. Obviously the send line will be going to your bucket.

This way, the milkshake in the cooling system will be at least 1/2 diluted while you flush the tranny (better than the full milkshake that's in there now). After the tranny is flushed:

3) I would remove the thermostat and freeze plug (on the other side of the engine) and drain the block.
4) Install the new radiator (and hook up the tranny cooler lines since the tranny will be clean at this point) and fill the cooling system with plain 'ol water. I would drive a day or so then flush the cooling system with water again as many times as needed (just like how you'll probably need to drop the tranny pan and clean the filter a couple times at least).
5) When the cooling system is all clean, pull the thermo and freeze pug again, drain the block and fill the system back up with 50/50 coolant/distilled water.
6) Cross your fingers.

 

[Toy4ever]

I am sure its posted in here somewhere but what causes the milkshake? Failure of which components?

 

[Qyota]

Agree 100% with Brian on the method and order - especially the "cross your fingers" part! Also, look at donor transmissions...they can be found for ~$500 (100K or so), and swapped in for another $500-600. Worth a look, before spending too much on ATF! ;-) I recommend car-part.com

Toy4ever - the radiator on automatic models has an internal ATF cooler at the bottom. This cooler is "bathed" in engine coolant at all times. There are fittings where the cooler and radiator come together, and these are what commonly fail. Doesn't take much corrosion, and you've got a big problem.

 

[daugherty83]

I got a used tranny from a tranny warehouse with 36,400 on it for around 1300 shipped to me and I had to pay around 5 or 600 to get it put in. I have an 01 so I had to get a tranny from an 01 or 02 which sucked. I would also pull the plug on the block when you flush everything out as well. Like I said, you can flush and flush and some have even had decent results, but as a precaution I would def. start putting some money back if you do get her up and running. GL!!

 

[holders]

I thought the ATF are pressurized so when the radiator does fail, the coolant wouldn't get in the tranny... or maybe I'm wrong

Anyway I put in a separate tranny cooler 1 month after I bought the truck.