Factory E-Locker Vs. Aftermarket

[02SE]

Why is the 4:10 rare compared to the 4:30? I believe I have the 4:10.

They weren't rare on the Dealer lots here, when they were new. The V6, 5 speed and E-locker combo was popular and pretty common at Dealers in Utah. Because of the generally higher altitude in the State, the manual trans 4Runner's felt noticeably more peppy than the auto trans equipped 4Runners.

In the rest of the Country they might not have been as common. And it would seem that's the case due to how hard it seems to be for people to find them today.

You having 4.10 gears would jive with every V6, 5 speed trans, E-locker equipped 4Runner I looked at on the lots, back when I was looking to buy in 1997. I bought one equipped exactly that way.


For some reason the false assumption continues to exist that all E-locker equipped 4Runners had 4.30 gearing. That's simply incorrect. That might in part be due to the fact that auto trans V6 4Runners are generally more common than 5 speed V6 4Runners. And the auto trans V6 4Runners did have that gear ratio when equipped with the E-locker.

 

[Singtoe]

ii think thats the first time ive ever heard of someone trying to keep, or fit IFS suspension under a toyota.

The e-locker has been fitted front solid axle plenty of times. Why not try some thing new.

The LC came factory equipped with both elockers.


SAS from a Elocked LC would be schisnick though.

 

[kelly2310]

I'm going through this same dilemma myself, got everything I wanted in my 4runner except the locker.

If the elocker is cheap, I'm tempted to go that route (anyone know of someone in the SF bay area that will do an elocker swap-in?).

If the elocker is close to the price of a single ARB setup, then I'm going ARB because then I'll be able to put lockers in BOTH axles when I want to. Having an elocker rear and ARB front just seems kinda whacky if you didn't start off with the elocker to begin with.

I've used ARBs before and they lock/unlock quick and easy. The elockers in my Rubicon were kinda a pain, taking a while to do their thing. By the time I'm reaching for the locker switch I'm already in a tight spot. Wondering and waiting was un-fun. Of course, having them in there from the factory and covered under my warranty took the edge off waiting for engagement. Maybe toyota did it better than Chrysler?


It's a hard choice!

 

[Dagobah]

Maybe toyota did it better than Chrysler?

Uh... Duh...
Or are you joking?
lol

 

[nevada]

I'm going through this same dilemma myself, got everything I wanted in my 4runner except the locker.

If the elocker is cheap, I'm tempted to go that route (anyone know of someone in the SF bay area that will do an elocker swap-in?).

If the elocker is close to the price of a single ARB setup, then I'm going ARB because then I'll be able to put lockers in BOTH axles when I want to. Having an elocker rear and ARB front just seems kinda whacky if you didn't start off with the elocker to begin with.

I've used ARBs before and they lock/unlock quick and easy. The elockers in my Rubicon were kinda a pain, taking a while to do their thing. By the time I'm reaching for the locker switch I'm already in a tight spot. Wondering and waiting was un-fun. Of course, having them in there from the factory and covered under my warranty took the edge off waiting for engagement. Maybe toyota did it better than Chrysler?


It's a hard choice!

the ARB is going to be over $1,000 per end. plus the pump. unless you find a great deal somewhere, or get used.

also, theres no reason you cant have an arb in the front, and an e-locker in the rear. they dont have to match.

 

[Doc2012]

Just remember, IF you go with the E-locker, you'll either have to cut, drill, and tap the housing, or get a new housing that already accepts the e-locker. If the axle is whole, great, if not, you'll have to swap everything from the old alxe, and this would be a good time to change seals and bearings if needed. If you like fabing, go ahead and cut into your housing. Just remember, if you screw it up, you'll have to get a new housing....

REMEMBER!!!! IF YOU CHANGE THE GEARING IN THE BACK, YOU MUST CHANGE THE GEARING IN THE FRONT, OR YOU'LL SCREW YOUR TRANSMISSION!!!

If you can find a cheap E-locker housing with E-locker and gears that match your truck, I would say go for it. You'll also need the wiring harness for the E-locker. This will probably bring you to about the same price, if not more, than an ARB would run you from ECGS.

8" Toyota ARB(All gear sizes)-$947
Compressor-Depends what you go with, the site shows 2; one @ 156(mini compressor), the other @ 255(high output compressor).


You're looking at about 1100-1200 for a full ARB rear setup, depending on what compressor you go with. If you want the on board air for your tires, go with a bigger compressor. The good thing is that all the compressors work with ALL the lockers. So, if you get a mini compressor at first, just for the locker(s), thes decide you want OBA, just upgrade the compressor. Mount it, Plug and play.

A front diff locker will run you the same price as the rear locker, if you decide to put one in. But, you don't need another compressor or anything. Just put the diff in, hook up the Micro line to the compressor, install the other switch(Unless you already have all installed), and you're ready to go.

The MAIN reason I would go with a NEW ARB set-up, is because ECGS warranties them. I know I have a 5 year warranty on my 4.88's I just got from them.... Just my .02

 

[the great him]

doing a retrofit for an Elocker will take a lot more time and work than just dumping an ARB in, sure it might be a few dollars cheaper, but time is worth something too... it think the estimate is around $1200 for a geared ARB set up from ECGS, and its like around $900 or so for the Elocker retorfit -by the time you buy or make your own wire harness ect.

personally i think doing the retorfit is more work that going with an ARB. and the ARB is stronger and comes with a warranty, plus you get on board air with it. ARB includes their own wire harness with the compressor so you dont need to add anything or source stuff to make it work, its 100% plug and play.

 

[steezemcqueen]

doing a retrofit for an Elocker will take a lot more time and work than just dumping an ARB in, sure it might be a few dollars cheaper, but time is worth something too... it think the estimate is around $1200 for a geared ARB set up from ECGS, and its like around $900 or so for the Elocker retorfit -by the time you buy or make your own wire harness ect.

personally i think doing the retorfit is more work that going with an ARB. and the ARB is stronger and comes with a warranty, plus you get on board air with it. ARB includes their own wire harness with the compressor so you dont need to add anything or source stuff to make it work, its 100% plug and play.

Didn't you blow up your ARB?

 

[sn0wrunner]

Didn't you blow up your ARB?

lol!

 

[the great him]

Didn't you blow up your ARB?

SSSHHHH! that was user error So Gay

yes but ARB stood behind it, even tough it was user error and improper use... let me know when toyota will do that with one of their lockers -oh yeah my old ARB was made back in 2001 and i was not the original owner of it either

 

[sn0wrunner]

my old ARB was made back in 2001 and i was not the original owner of it either

Yeah there is no doubt ARB has awesome customer service.

 

[Singtoe]

I retrofitted an Elocker in mine. I got the the e-locker for $350, the diff switch ($14) and the e-locker ecu ($25) from Ebay. Some longer studs and some RTV.

Elocked in about 4 hours.

 

[slomatt]

You have 4.30's

If he has a 5speed with an e-locker as shown in his signature he should have the 4.10s. A lot of Tacomas came with 4.10s so they are a good source for an elocker 3rd member.

Like Singtoe I purchased my elocker (90k miles) for $350. The switch, ecu, factory wiring harness, new axle seals, and new studs were under $100 total. The retrofit is a good amount of work, but nothing crazy. The longest part for me was replacing the wiring harness, it would have been much simpler to just run a few new wires alongside the factory harness.

- Matt

 

[nevada]

Just remember, IF you go with the E-locker, you'll either have to cut, drill, and tap the housing, or get a new housing that already accepts the e-locker. If the axle is whole, great, if not, you'll have to swap everything from the old alxe, and this would be a good time to change seals and bearings if needed. If you like fabing, go ahead and cut into your housing. Just remember, if you screw it up, you'll have to get a new housing....

REMEMBER!!!! IF YOU CHANGE THE GEARING IN THE BACK, YOU MUST CHANGE THE GEARING IN THE FRONT, OR YOU'LL SCREW YOUR TRANSMISSION!!!

If you can find a cheap E-locker housing with E-locker and gears that match your truck, I would say go for it. You'll also need the wiring harness for the E-locker. This will probably bring you to about the same price, if not more, than an ARB would run you from ECGS.

8" Toyota ARB(All gear sizes)-$947Compressor-Depends what you go with, the site shows 2; one @ 156(mini compressor), the other @ 255(high output compressor).


You're looking at about 1100-1200 for a full ARB rear setup, depending on what compressor you go with. If you want the on board air for your tires, go with a bigger compressor. The good thing is that all the compressors work with ALL the lockers. So, if you get a mini compressor at first, just for the locker(s), thes decide you want OBA, just upgrade the compressor. Mount it, Plug and play.

A front diff locker will run you the same price as the rear locker, if you decide to put one in. But, you don't need another compressor or anything. Just put the diff in, hook up the Micro line to the compressor, install the other switch(Unless you already have all installed), and you're ready to go.

The MAIN reason I would go with a NEW ARB set-up, is because ECGS warranties them. I know I have a 5 year warranty on my 4.88's I just got from them.... Just my .02

does that include diff set-up? if not, you're looking at a couple hundred there.

If he has a 5speed with an e-locker as shown in his signature he should have the 4.10s. A lot of Tacomas came with 4.10s so they are a good source for an elocker 3rd member.

Like Singtoe I purchased my elocker (90k miles) for $350. The switch, ecu, factory wiring harness, new axle seals, and new studs were under $100 total. The retrofit is a good amount of work, but nothing crazy. The longest part for me was replacing the wiring harness, it would have been much simpler to just run a few new wires alongside the factory harness.

- Matt

i was going to go this route, and then i decided on D60/D70 :naughty:
and ive already got the T-locker for the D60.
will probably do a spool for the 70...

 

[white_n_slow]

In my experience, you can't go wrong with an auto locker for $300. I have run both the Aussie and the Lockright, and they both worked great off road and never broke anything or caused any headaches. Both were fine for the street as well. The Lockright did seem to operate a little more smoothly, but that was in a heavy tractor (FJ60) so the weight might have had something to do with that.

I bought my 4Runner with the factory locker basically because it's one less thing I'll need to buy down the road, but IMO an auto locker is fine in the rear for a daily driver. *Unless you drive around with your mom/wife/clients/etc - they will think there's something wrong with your car when it clicks pulling out of your parking spot.

For the front, I think a slectable locker is the best way to go if it's daily driven and used in the snow in 4hi.

There's my $.02

 

[4-Ripcord]

*Unless you drive around with your mom/wife/clients/etc - they will think there's something wrong with your car when it clicks pulling out of your parking spot.

You contradicted yourself with that statement. If it clicks and makes people think your truck is broken, why would you get it? Just get the real one that actually works well.

Oh and welcome to the site.

 

[white_n_slow]

You contradicted yourself with that statement. If it clicks and makes people think your truck is broken, why would you get it? Just get the real one that actually works well.

Oh and welcome to the site.

They work just fine, they just make a little noise. It's part of the design, not an indication of anything wrong with the locker. People who don't know how an automatic locker works (or don't know what a locker is in the first place) will be confused by the clicking noise. So if you find that embarrassing or you get sick of explaining what a locker is to everyone who gets in your truck, then a selectable locker is right locker for you.

They're cheap, simple and effective, which is why I've used them in the past. Selectable is great, but it's usually more expensive and has more potential points of failure (electrical issues, air hoses leaking, whacking the actuator on a rock). If some folks in this thread are getting them for $300-some dollars, that's a great option.

Thanks for the welcome, I've been looking around for a 3rd gen 4runner site with some good traffic

 

[Sean K.]

You contradicted yourself with that statement. If it clicks and makes people think your truck is broken, why would you get it? Just get the real one that actually works well.

Oh and welcome to the site.

Sorry for bringing back the dead....

I'm just really over the whole 'selectable' locker thing. This'll date me, but I've owned them for over 20 years and while they are relatively trouble free, you still have additional maintenance on ARBs and Toyota Elockers aren't all that strong when you start mixing in 37" tires and lots of torque from a crawl box.

The only reason I'd go selectable is if you're concerned about performance on icy roads. Locked axles do tend to slide to the downhill side of a road....open diffs will often help "anchor" the vehicle better and makes for more predictable handling on ice.

That said:

Why would you go auto locker if it clicks and makes folks think your truck is broken? B/c (caveat: a full carrier) auto locker like the Grizzly is more reliable due to being far less complex and comparatively less money.

Also, I don't really care what anyone else thinks about my vehicles. When they are customized to the extent many of ours are....they are almost an extension of our personal taste/style. If someone doesn't like my vehicle, they probably won't like me either....so no loss. :becky:

My point: From now on, I'm putting in automatic full carrier lockers whenever possible. Less maintenance and less parts to break....and ultimately, reliability is THE number one factor in choosing a locker, b/c you needed it to get into the area you are now trying to get out of.

 

[violation]

can you explain what "additional maintenance" is required on ARB lockers?

thanks.

 

[Sean K.]

can you explain what "additional maintenance" is required on ARB lockers?

thanks.

Mainly it's the o-ring seals. I have 6 vehicles....so I don't drive the ones with ARBs as much as I probably should meaning the o-rings inside the diff can dry out and crack from lack of circulating gear oil.

The one that's a bigger problem is the o-ring on the OBA tank of the ARB compressor itself. That one, probably due to vibration, loosens somewhat regularly (you'll be able to tell when your compressor starts kicking on more often than normal)...and you just have to retighten it.....UNTIL it compresses too much from being tightened down and you need to replace it. Keep a spare O-ring for this in your parts kit/tool box/bag.

It's not a big deal really....takes all of a couple of minutes to locate a wrench to tighten things up (unless it's time to change the o-ring)...just one more thing to mess with.

Also, I'm guilty of forgetting to turn the darn thing on.....for example.: first time out after I completed my buggy build and I forget to turn on the locker on its very first obstacle (I'm running a full chromo spool in the rear 35 spline D60):

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I'm not one of those guys who wait to turn the lockers on until I'm stuck....I generally know when I'll need them (and I usually only run selectables in front diffs to aid in steering....though with full hydro steering....I'm a huge proponent of good, matched systems....it's a moot point). It's kinda like those guys who try to do obstacles in 2WD just to see if they can before trying it in 4WD....and then break b/c they should've been in 4wd in the first place.

The only other "maintenance" stuff is really just proper planning in the build stage....like don't use the blue air line supplied with ARBs....use stainless steel braided line and Earl's (or similar) conversion fittings. Use an air switch rather than ARB electric locker switches. Have a second OBA system or CO2 tank (with appropriate 95 psi or less regulator input....depending on ARB model) so that if your ARB compressor shits the bed, you are not stranded....remember, if you needed lockers to get in that far, you'll need them to get back out (generally). Oh and seal and double seal or plasti-dip your electrical connections for the compressor....you don't want water intrusion there.