sambishop
New member
*Please note this is not a write up but more a summary of my experience.*
Wiring: I only had one real hiccup with the wiring which turned out to be an interesting one. After reading some threads, I figured out what wires needed to go where.
The basic rundown was this:
(pin 3 to pin 4) for clutch depress
(pin 10 to pin 5) for clutch release
(pin 10 to pin 7) for reverse switch
After performing the above wiring, this happened:
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TfJz5oOUQdU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Turns out for the 2000, the clutch release and reverse switches were swapped around at the factory.
So for me, it was:
(pin 3 to pin 4) for clutch depress
(pin 10 to pin 7) for clutch release
(pin 10 to pin 5) for reverse switch
I soldered a couple wires, then grew impatient and started using these babies which I highly recommend. I don’t know what the right name for them is but I call them 'quick connects' and believe me, they are. No wiring stripping, no cursing.
Pedals: I tried keeping this project as low budget as I could. I bought a clutch pedal and decided to keep my original brake pedal. Please Note: Without modification of your brake pedal, it will simply be too close to the clutch pedal. I cut mine in half as shown here and bought one of these to cover up metal.
Driveshaft: I kept my original rear driveshaft by buying a $25 driveshaft spacer, it feels skookum and I approve of it. Front driveshaft was replaced with one from a M/T 1998 4Runner.
Interior: The only thing I did on the interior to make this work was cut out the middle section of the shifter holes depicted below
Transmission: As some of you already know, here’s where I ran into some other problems. I picked up an R150F that came out of a 2nd gen 4runner. I was dumb enough not to think about the fact that the 3.0 and 3.4 engines wouldn’t have the same bell housing pattern. I pulled my automatic and transfer case together, then took off the transfer case and tried mating it to the R150F. No dice, I almost cried. In the end it all worked out fine though, I found a 3rd gen R150F for $250 from a junkyard that only had 126k on it. Since I only paid $75 for the first tranny I might just keep it and tinker around with it. I’m super curious about its guts.
The first time I tried installing the manual, I just could not for the life of my get this damn thing to mate up close enough to install a bell housing bolt. After 25 minutes of shaking, pushing and pulling I tapped out and lowered it. I found an alignment pin still stuck in the manual tranny that it stole from its previous engine. Map gas with a pair of vice grips was the end of that problem. After that she went right on in.
Last little tiff came after the install. I opened up the drain plug to find this milking looking fluid. *Heart sinks* How could this happen to me? I just want a damn transmission that will work!!! After calling my buddy who works for a chevy dealership he assured me that a sitting transmission will do that when condensation in the fluid doesn't get hot and evaporate, you're left with that. Trusting him, I moved forward. I squirted a quart of gear oil as hard as I could do the shifter hole to flush out as much of the bad fluid as I could. Filled her then with 2.3 quarts of MT-90 and she shifts like a dream.
Wiring: I only had one real hiccup with the wiring which turned out to be an interesting one. After reading some threads, I figured out what wires needed to go where.
The basic rundown was this:
(pin 3 to pin 4) for clutch depress
(pin 10 to pin 5) for clutch release
(pin 10 to pin 7) for reverse switch
After performing the above wiring, this happened:
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TfJz5oOUQdU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Turns out for the 2000, the clutch release and reverse switches were swapped around at the factory.
So for me, it was:
(pin 3 to pin 4) for clutch depress
(pin 10 to pin 7) for clutch release
(pin 10 to pin 5) for reverse switch
I soldered a couple wires, then grew impatient and started using these babies which I highly recommend. I don’t know what the right name for them is but I call them 'quick connects' and believe me, they are. No wiring stripping, no cursing.
Pedals: I tried keeping this project as low budget as I could. I bought a clutch pedal and decided to keep my original brake pedal. Please Note: Without modification of your brake pedal, it will simply be too close to the clutch pedal. I cut mine in half as shown here and bought one of these to cover up metal.
Driveshaft: I kept my original rear driveshaft by buying a $25 driveshaft spacer, it feels skookum and I approve of it. Front driveshaft was replaced with one from a M/T 1998 4Runner.
Interior: The only thing I did on the interior to make this work was cut out the middle section of the shifter holes depicted below
Transmission: As some of you already know, here’s where I ran into some other problems. I picked up an R150F that came out of a 2nd gen 4runner. I was dumb enough not to think about the fact that the 3.0 and 3.4 engines wouldn’t have the same bell housing pattern. I pulled my automatic and transfer case together, then took off the transfer case and tried mating it to the R150F. No dice, I almost cried. In the end it all worked out fine though, I found a 3rd gen R150F for $250 from a junkyard that only had 126k on it. Since I only paid $75 for the first tranny I might just keep it and tinker around with it. I’m super curious about its guts.
The first time I tried installing the manual, I just could not for the life of my get this damn thing to mate up close enough to install a bell housing bolt. After 25 minutes of shaking, pushing and pulling I tapped out and lowered it. I found an alignment pin still stuck in the manual tranny that it stole from its previous engine. Map gas with a pair of vice grips was the end of that problem. After that she went right on in.
Last little tiff came after the install. I opened up the drain plug to find this milking looking fluid. *Heart sinks* How could this happen to me? I just want a damn transmission that will work!!! After calling my buddy who works for a chevy dealership he assured me that a sitting transmission will do that when condensation in the fluid doesn't get hot and evaporate, you're left with that. Trusting him, I moved forward. I squirted a quart of gear oil as hard as I could do the shifter hole to flush out as much of the bad fluid as I could. Filled her then with 2.3 quarts of MT-90 and she shifts like a dream.
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