Finally got rid of 4 years of tire rubbing

3

3sash3mi

New member
My 265 KO2s were coming up for replacement. 4 year ago when i put these on, i had installed Bilsten's with 2.5" lift, 1.25" spacer and level8 MK6 wheels with -12 offset. There was always this annoying rub whenever i reversed out.

So this time around I decided I would try a 3" lift with Toytec Boss in front and replace the rear 2" icon spring with 2-3" OME spring + 2" Cornfed spacers to get back the factory rake. Also added the 1" front differential drop.

Since the wheels were also scuffed up already i replaced Micky Thompson Classic III that has almost same specs (-12 offset, slightly less BS, 4.5 instead of 5, 9" rim width)

I went with 33" Falken Wildpeak A/T3W (255/80/17) . The problem is they recommend max 8.5 rim width. Will see if something happens down the road when i try to deflate etc. These are slight more than 1" narrower than 285/70/17 KO2. That probably helps with the no rub situation at this time even though I still have the wheel spacers. Additional lift helps too I am very sure.

But I think Falken's profile don't look as cool as KO2s. Not sure if 285/70/16 KO2s would have rubbed or not. However, Falken's seem quieter on highways.

May be I can go to 34 next time around with this set up But it almost feels I have too much lift looking at the gaps. I need to measure.

Anyway thought I would share since have not done anything on the car for a long time.
 

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If you go 285 you won't need the spacers to look right and that will help a lot with clearance. BMC is easy as a sawzall and 20 minutes in the driveway if you do need it.......and your truck looks sharp already!
 
3sash3mi said:
My 265 KO2s were coming up for replacement. 4 year ago when i put these on, i had installed Bilsten's with 2.5" lift, 1.25" spacer and level8 MK6 wheels with -12 offset. There was always this annoying rub whenever i reversed out.

So this time around I decided I would try a 3" lift with Toytec Boss in front and replace the rear 2" icon spring with 2-3" OME spring + 2" Cornfed spacers to get back the factory rake. Also added the 1" front differential drop.

Since the wheels were also scuffed up already i replaced Micky Thompson Classic III that has almost same specs (-12 offset, slightly less BS, 4.5 instead of 5, 9" rim width)

I went with 33" Falken Wildpeak A/T3W (255/80/17) . The problem is they recommend max 8.5 rim width. Will see if something happens down the road when i try to deflate etc. These are slight more than 1" narrower than 285/70/17 KO2. That probably helps with the no rub situation at this time even though I still have the wheel spacers. Additional lift helps too I am very sure.

But I think Falken's profile don't look as cool as KO2s. Not sure if 285/70/16 KO2s would have rubbed or not. However, Falken's seem quieter on highways.

May be I can go to 34 next time around with this set up But it almost feels I have too much lift looking at the gaps. I need to measure.

Anyway thought I would share since have not done anything on the car for a long time.
Click to expand...


What is your hub to bottom of fender measurement? Also, are your rims 16 or 17"? You mention both sizes

KO2's come in a 34x10.5 size that might work well if you want a skinnier tire. Actual size according to BFG is 33.5x10.6". They would be a bit taller and wider than your Falkens without jumping all the way to a 285/75
 
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comtn4x4 said:
What is your hub to bottom of fender measurement? Also, are your rims 16 or 17"? You mention both sizes

KO2's come in a 34x10.5 size that might work well if you want a skinnier tire. Actual size according to BFG is 33.5x10.6". They would be a bit taller and wider than your Falkens without jumping all the way to a 285/75
Click to expand...

I need to measure it on a horizontal plane. the other day i measured it on my driveway which has a slope. it came out to be 25". I am using 17" rims. yeah i think i will think about 34 and see if i need a BMC.

Do you guys worry about rust with BMC ? I lost an earlier car to rust.
 
srsrogerissrs said:
Do you have aftermarket UCAs?
Click to expand...

yeah i do. Its a SPC. Finding a shop that are willing to do the alignment to max out the caster has been a challenge. But currently my local Meineke seems to be more competent than ones I have been dealing with in the past. At least they seems to have mechanics who know something about off road mods.
 
3sash3mi said:
I need to measure it on a horizontal plane. the other day i measured it on my driveway which has a slope. it came out to be 25". I am using 17" rims. yeah i think i will think about 34 and see if i need a BMC.

Do you guys worry about rust with BMC ? I lost an earlier car to rust.
Click to expand...

25"? In the front? Wow thats a lot of lift if that's correct.
 
3sash3mi said:
yeah i think my wife is not going to be happy. I need to check again.
Click to expand...

You'll need to really look at the implications of that much lift. That would be 5" of lift if that's correct. Much over 3" can be problematic. I'd be surprised if you got that much lift from that setup. Can you confirm that you're measuring from hub center to bottom of the fender?
 
comtn4x4 said:
You'll need to really look at the implications of that much lift. That would be 5" of lift if that's correct. Much over 3" can be problematic. I'd be surprised if you got that much lift from that setup. Can you confirm that you're measuring from hub center to bottom of the fender?
Click to expand...


Yeah i have been thinking about it. let me measure it again on a level surface and get back.
 
With your lift kit and spc upper control arms you shouldn't be rubbing. Find an alignment shop (ones who work on lifts) that can pull the caster about an inch forward so that you clear the body mount without having to cut anything. We do these all day long at toytec. Let me know if you need help
 
ManhstuhT4R said:
With your lift kit and spc upper control arms you shouldn't be rubbing. Find an alignment shop (ones who work on lifts) that can pull the caster about an inch forward so that you clear the body mount without having to cut anything. We do these all day long at toytec. Let me know if you need help
Click to expand...

recommend me a shop in the bay area :-)
 
Your rubbing is down to the spacers......pure and simple. Get 4+ caster without spacers and you are good to go. With spacer you need the chop.....and just hit the cuts with Rustoleum and you don't need to worry about rust.
 
-12 offset plus 1.25 inch spacers puts you in the neighborhood of -41 offset.

So even if you move the caster forward to the max, you will still rub in odd places either when reversing or turning if you move up to 285s....

So your options are:

remove spacers and keep your -12 rims

or

keep spacers and do a bmc

or

get new rims.

I personally love the -offset look, so i vote keep spacers and do bmc.
 
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