First Mods

[ColMntDad]

I have had a 15 SR5 Premium with the 3rd row for one week now and just love it. I'm putting together my list of "firsts to do." I have already added Weather Tech's to the floor. I never used them before but was impressed with their fit. My intention is to make this the family adventure mobile. I would like to cover some of the mountain passes hear in CO and want to get the family out there and back. I still have cosmetic/functional changes to add to help protect the truck and add some functionality.
--Window vent covers -- what is the groups favorite brand?
--Instead of steps I want to add a set of sliders instead. I like the look of the Slee's but am following the other threads on the site discussing sliders.

I want to upgrade the tires to something more aggressive. I have Michelin's on my 03 Excursion and they work well towing and mild dirt use. They pick up rocks rather easily but ride great. I was pricing out BFG AT KO2's to replace the current stock tires. Also, I wanted to see if I can get some $ for the new stockers Tires are a personal choice but can someone tell me how the BFG's ride vs stock and how much additional road noise do they add?

After the tires I was looking at protection on the bottom side. Is there something that I should go do first? The skid plate upgrades all look like they could take a beating but do you do all or cover a particular piece of the drivetrain first?

Long term who knows where this will go. If you have additional upgrades/mods in mind, let me know.
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[LandCruiser]

Have you ever driven the mountain passes?

If you're really serious, you need a full set of skids, rock rails, 3" lift, some sort of winch and/or bumper (if you're going out alone), and more aggressive tires.

If you plan on using all 3 rows of seats, you probably need a roof rack, since you won't fit any crap in the noenxistent cargo area behind the 3rd row.

I just run a lifted trail, but I've already banged the hell out of the OEM Toyota skids and have dented the passenger door on some rocks. I'm having some skids and rails installed when I get back--currently no $ for a front bumper but will need one eventually.

I usually wheel with friends, so a winch isn't necessary, but I wouldn't go out alone without one--unless you have some impressive stamina to walk back to the trail head and ask some of the stoners/Mexican gangsters for a tow.

 

[tristero]

Some members will tell you to drive it for 6 months before you decide to change anything. I agree and disagree. I think you should do some research and look at your needs vs wants—research the piss out of everything. If you absolutely love your T4R as is, then maybe you don't need to go crazy yet.

IMO the suspension and tires should be the very first things to get an upgrade. Your vehicle is extremely capable as is right now, but there are just some places you don't want to be on the Bridgestones.

Regarding the tire noise, I don't think the KO2 would be very noisy, though I won't run BFG tires. I'm running DuraTracs, and barely notice them.

 

[jamgolf]

Since you are in Colorado, I would highly recommend getting Charles A Wells' book "Guide to Colorado Backroads & 4WD". I have used it on 3 trips. There is advice that will do you more good than most modifications. I would start hitting/enjoying the green trails, which you might find them doable in your stock 4runner. As you go you'll find out what is more important for some of the blue or even red trails.

In many cases our own limit as drivers is reached before the vehicle's capability limits are reached. Many trails/passes in your beautiful state are challenging because of heights, drop-offs, switch backs. You may not even need many modifications. Only the extremely hard core trails would require serious mods.

So if you are going to primarily do rock crawling, then serious modifications are in order. On the other hand if you are interested in going over passes eg. Black Bear, Imogene, Engineer, etc. you do not necessarily need modifications other than good set of tires.

 

[Saker]

...........Tires are a personal choice but can someone tell me how the BFG's ride vs stock and how much additional road noise do they add?

I have KO2's on my T4R. When changing from "P" rated to "C" or "E" rated KO2's you will notice a difference.
You just need to know that going in, it's the nature of the beast.
These tires are tougher than the Bridgestone's or Dunlop's.
As far as noise, barely noticeable to non existent.
I never hear mine. Maybe someone else will chime in as well.

 

[2014 Warthog]

I only have 10k on my BFGs but so far the noise is as minimal as an AT tire can be I think (very quiet). Though side by side with stock street tires, they are louder. But only just noticeable.

I've been perfectly happy with the LT-E 275s I got. If you get C I wouldn't think you would notice much if any difference in stiffness on the road. Even the E's at 44 pounds are only just slightly noticeable stiffer than the P metric ATs I had on before.

And so far, on or offroad they have been great. Waiting for 40k to see how they do noise and traction wise, but as they are now I wouldn't hesitate to buy them again.

But yeah, for me, tires (and wheels if you want to change the look) are the very first mod Then in order - Sliders. Rear bumper. Skids. Then maybe front bumper and winch if getting more serious.

 

[marshal]

the only real difference you'll notice by going up the ladder on load ratings will be the loss of fuel milage. the 4runner is very finicky about how much the tires weigh in regards to fuel milage.

imo id avoid BFG's like the plague. hate those things

 

[2014 Warthog]

the only real difference you'll notice by going up the ladder on load ratings will be the loss of fuel milage. the 4runner is very finicky about how much the tires weigh in regards to fuel milage.

imo id avoid BFG's like the plague. hate those things

The new KO2s are nothing like the old KOs in almost every way, so don't use old experiences to compare to the KO2s...

The mileage between a C and E would be virtually unnoticeable.

Switching from street to AT tread pattern and rubber compound is what is very noticeable (P-Metric, C or E) (-1 mpg at least). Also switching to a wider/taller tire will also be very noticeable (another -1 or 2) but more for increased rolling resistance from width and taller gear rations from diameter than for weight.

 

[noisebeam]

I put 265/70/17 (stock size) BFG A/T KO2 LTC when the truck had 36mi on it. I didn't want to tear up the stock tires on my first trip (which involved a number of blue trails from same book recommended above, but for AZ)

While I only drove the stock tires for about 25mi on pavement, I didn't find the A/T obviously different.

Curiously Discount Tire put LTC on driver side of truck and LTE on passenger side. I only noticed halfway thru my trip when I glanced at tire label. Befoer I noticed I thought maybe there was a pull towards the passenger side, but I couldn't be sure if it was wind or road camber.

In stock size the LTC weighs 45.7lbs, the LTE is 53.4 lbs, so a 7.7lbs diff per tire.

At some point I'll want to upgrade shocks, add sliders and better underside protection.

 

[marshal]

The new KO2s are nothing like the old KOs in almost every way, so don't use old experiences to compare to the KO2s...

The mileage between a C and E would be virtually unnoticeable.

Switching from street to AT tread pattern and rubber compound is what is very noticeable (P-Metric, C or E) (-1 mpg at least). Also switching to a wider/taller tire will also be very noticeable (another -1 or 2) but more for increased rolling resistance from width and taller gear rations from diameter than for weight.

I'll never buy BFGs again. I had a set of KM1s that I hated and were junk, I have them a second chance on KM2s and they were garbage too. They're the best looking tire out there, but never again.

Not all tires are made the same (obviously) there are many tires that have considerable weight differences between the load ratings. My 35/12.50E general grabbers are 80lbs a piece, the Toyo OCMTs in the same size are 105 a tire.

 

[Friggin Idiot]

I'll never buy BFGs again. I had a set of KM1s that I hated and were junk, I have them a second chance on KM2s and they were garbage too. They're the best looking tire out there, but never again.

Not all tires are made the same (obviously) there are many tires that have considerable weight differences between the load ratings. My 35/12.50E general grabbers are 80lbs a piece, the Toyo OCMTs in the same size are 105 a tire.

I mean no disrespect and don't intend to flame but am wondering why you bothered with this post. The mud terrain type tires you listed have nothing to do with the original question specifically about KO2s. There's a large difference in construction and design between mud and all terrain tire. You mention the look of the tires which is like not buying a pack of Oreos because they have pink dyed filling.
I have a co-worker who always whines about how loud and short lived his tires are but he never buys anything smaller than 35s and always buys the aggressive looking mud terrain and super swamper tires then runs them in Oklahoma summers on pavement at 60mph 25 miles each way to work. Buying for looks is fine if you understand the capabilities and pitfalls of what you purchase. It didn't sound like the OP had need for anything greater than a good winter performing all terrain tire to me, so the KO2 seems a well rated and appropriate choice.

 

[bimrunner]

I'll never buy BFGs again. I had a set of KM1s that I hated and were junk, I have them a second chance on KM2s and they were garbage too. They're the best looking tire out there, but never again.

Not all tires are made the same (obviously) there are many tires that have considerable weight differences between the load ratings. My 35/12.50E general grabbers are 80lbs a piece, the Toyo OCMTs in the same size are 105 a tire.

KM2... boo! Toyos are nice. I settled on the Goodyear MTRs and like them a lot. The General Grabbers are probably good too. I'm not going to give BFG another shot at it.

 

[bimrunner]

I mean no disrespect and don't intend to flame but am wondering why you bothered with this post. The mud terrain type tires you listed have nothing to do with the original question specifically about KO2s. There's a large difference in construction and design between mud and all terrain tire. You mention the look of the tires which is like not buying a pack of Oreos because they have pink dyed filling.
I have a co-worker who always whines about how loud and short lived his tires are but he never buys anything smaller than 35s and always buys the aggressive looking mud terrain and super swamper tires then runs them in Oklahoma summers on pavement at 60mph 25 miles each way to work. Buying for looks is fine if you understand the capabilities and pitfalls of what you purchase. It didn't sound like the OP had need for anything greater than a good winter performing all terrain tire to me, so the KO2 seems a well rated and appropriate choice.

I think it was largely a manufacturer preference. I have also had bad experience with BFG and I don't like how small they run for each sizing... Goodyear duratrac and the Coopers are a great alternative in the AT space.

 

[Friggin Idiot]

I think it was largely a manufacturer preference. I have also had bad experience with BFG and I don't like how small they run for each sizing... Goodyear duratrac and the Coopers are a great alternative in the AT space.

I did see the BFG link, I guess I simply expected a more apples to apples comparison experience. Had I judged Toyota on the last Corolla and Camry that I drove I never would have considered the 4Runner, just saying.

 

[Antman]

Regarding the tire noise, I don't think the KO2 would be very noisy, though I won't run BFG tires. I'm running DuraTracs, and barely notice them.

I love my Duratracs too BUT you will definitely notice the noise as they wear. Mine are getting pretty darn loud, but I actually like it most of the time...

 

[tristero]

[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] how many miles have you put on your set?

 

[Antman]

[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] how many miles have you put on your set?

Right around 44k...still LOTS of tread left too.

 

[Dragontj]

I had cooper sst and loved them. They are also reported to last around 50-70k miles. However, I have not decided what I am going to put on the TEP

 

[marshal]

I mean no disrespect and don't intend to flame but am wondering why you bothered with this post. The mud terrain type tires you listed have nothing to do with the original question specifically about KO2s. There's a large difference in construction and design between mud and all terrain tire. You mention the look of the tires which is like not buying a pack of Oreos because they have pink dyed filling.
I have a co-worker who always whines about how loud and short lived his tires are but he never buys anything smaller than 35s and always buys the aggressive looking mud terrain and super swamper tires then runs them in Oklahoma summers on pavement at 60mph 25 miles each way to work. Buying for looks is fine if you understand the capabilities and pitfalls of what you purchase. It didn't sound like the OP had need for anything greater than a good winter performing all terrain tire to me, so the KO2 seems a well rated and appropriate choice.

1. Looks should matter. Form follows function

2. I included my experiences because the KM1 and KM2 are heavier built tires than the KOs. They should be more durable than the KOs since they're designed for more extreme terrain. My KM2s sucked. They have the shittiest light weight sidewall that cut left and right. One of my 37" KM2s had 9 plugs in the sidewall from a piece of soft limestone that others walked through. My MTRs were awesome, though didn't balance as well. My Nittos were worlds better, and my Generals are like gods.

BFG can't make a durable tire to save their life, let alone one that is the correct size.

 

[ColMntDad]

I didn't mean to start a tire war and I do appreciate the responses. Tires will most likely be first. I just will take more time evaluating my options. Durability is important but having a solid platform is important for both dirt and snow. I still need to take the kiddos to school and skiing. With the 3rd row I'm finding a step will help the boys getting in and out. I promised my wife I would install something. So I convinced her that functional sliders will be required to help protect the truck and have a step. I knew I intended to take this off road and I think someone mentioned I will probably reach my limit before the truck will. Hence the reason I got the 4Runner. Last summer I reached my limit with my Excursion. I just came to the conclusion it was just to heavy. 8600lbs. So it will be the trailer and Kitchen sink hauler. I will vector my resources for it on towing enhancements. I have a Warn XD9000 winch still in the box that a friend traded me a couple of years ago sitting in the garage. Maybe as we get more into going into the backcountry and I improve my driving skills, I will install it. I like the hidden winch mounts but will evaluate different setups when the time comes. With the weekend coming up we may head out to do some mountain driving.

The 4Runner and Excursion are lined up at the back bumper, so not only weight but length is a consideration.