First self-done oil change in the 4runner...

Martinjmpr

Martinjmpr

New member
Well, I changed the oil myself this past weekend. After reading some of the complaints here I wasn't sure I'd be able to do it but it wasn't that bad. I did tip over the filter when I was getting it out and spilled some oil onto the frame that is probably going to be dribbling onto the garage floor for a few weeks but other than that it went fine.

Just a quick question for those of you having difficulty getting to the oil filter: You are dropping the skid plates, right? Because I don't see how you could possibly change the filter without doing that. Skid plates came out easy, 6 13mm bolts and they aren't too heavy. I haven't put them back on yet but I will when I get ready for my road trip in November.

Oil filter came out pretty easy once I loosened it with a slip-joint plier-type of oil filter wrench. Fortunately I had one for my motorcycle so using it on the 4runner was a cinch. I could see how using a strap-type of oil filter wrench might be difficult, as there's not much room for movement there.

I used a "high mileage" 10w40 oil since my 4runner has just under 130k on it now. After reading the Chilton manual I just got, I may tackle the transmission fluid next.
 
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I take mine out, I've read here that some don't, I'm not sure how either:bluejump:

Also, using 10-40 is not recomended in our trucks, its a bit too thick. Even 10-30 is thick for this time of year if you live in cold climates. The oilcap says 5-30. I put 10-30 in the summer because it has a higher thermal breakdown. I use Royal Purple FS, and i recommend using a FS oil. Get some Mobil One next time , its great for the price.
 
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Martinjmpr said:
Well, I changed the oil myself this past weekend. After reading some of the complaints here I wasn't sure I'd be able to do it but it wasn't that bad. I did tip over the filter when I was getting it out and spilled some oil onto the frame that is probably going to be dribbling onto the garage floor for a few weeks but other than that it went fine.

Just a quick question for those of you having difficulty getting to the oil filter: You are dropping the skid plates, right? Because I don't see how you could possibly change the filter without doing that.
Click to expand...

No, I don't remove the skid plates and yes IT is very difficult to get the filter off. It can be done, even after doing it dozens of times, it is still a pain in the ass.

I think next time I change the oil, I will take off the skid plate, just to see tighten the bolts around the oil pan, or at least check to see if they need tighting.
 
Martinjmpr said:
Well, I changed the oil myself this past weekend. After reading some of the complaints here I wasn't sure I'd be able to do it but it wasn't that bad. I did tip over the filter when I was getting it out and spilled some oil onto the frame that is probably going to be dribbling onto the garage floor for a few weeks but other than that it went fine.

Just a quick question for those of you having difficulty getting to the oil filter: You are dropping the skid plates, right? Because I don't see how you could possibly change the filter without doing that. Skid plates came out easy, 6 13mm bolts and they aren't too heavy. I haven't put them back on yet but I will when I get ready for my road trip in November.

Oil filter came out pretty easy once I loosened it with a slip-joint plier-type of oil filter wrench. Fortunately I had one for my motorcycle so using it on the 4runner was a cinch. I could see how using a strap-type of oil filter wrench might be difficult, as there's not much room for movement there.

I used a "high mileage" 10w40 oil since my 4runner has just under 130k on it now. After reading the Chilton manual I just got, I may tackle the transmission fluid next.
Click to expand...

Congrats!

I too remove the skid plates when I do my oil changes. Makes my life a bit easier and less messy. You COULD remove the filter without taking the skid plates off, but I think it's easier imo.
 
congrats on changing ur own oil for the first time! haha

ya i dont take off the skid plate, nvr have. I learned how to do this once my dad handed me the keys on my 16th birthday and well in the past 5 years ive always changed mine own oil and i think its not that hard if u get a routine down. I have changed it so many times that i can change the oil and all in appx 30 min and thats without removing the skid tho it does take some maneuvering and skill to do so.
 
I remove the left front tire and go in through there. If you use a cap-style oil filter removal tool it's quite easy.

otc-6905.gif
 
I don't remove the skids. I just reach in thru the drivers fender well. I never put it on tight enough to use a wrench either, just hand tight. It gets a bit messy at first but after doing it several times isn't bad.
Only takes about ten minutes start to finish.
 
zcruiser said:
I remove the left front tire and go in through there. If you use a cap-style oil filter removal tool it's quite easy.

otc-6905.gif
Click to expand...


That sounds harder than removing the skid plate.

One thing about the cap-style oil filter removal, Toyota changed filters on me around 2007. The new filters now use a different size cap. I was in the middle of changing the oil when I figured it out.
 
I've only done it twice. The first time was a giant PITA. I spilled oil everywhere and couldn't get the new filter to thread properly.
This was all through the wheel well with the wheel still on.
The second time went a lot easier. It took all of 5 minutes not counting drain time. It did spill a little from the filter, but I don't see how it would have been any different if I was removing it from underneath.
I was so shocked that it went so fast I was sure that I forgot something important. The total process took a while, however, with the cleanup and oil disposal and all.
This was just last weekend, so I used 5W-30 Dino oil (cheapo Quaker State conventional). I'll go back to 10W-30 in the spring.
Then when the oil on my shelf is gone, I will be going back to Valvoline Instant Oil Change for my oil changes. Why? Because even an easy oil change is still a pain in the a$$. And, when you are using plain 'ol conventional oil you are not really saving that much money doing it yourself.
I could see if you are getting a deal on good synthetic oil, you want to be sure you are getting the oil you paid for and you want to to see the color coming out, etc. Then it would make sense.
But for my frequent dino oil changes, I will gladly fork over the extra $10 or so to have some grease monkeys running all around my truck lubing everything and topping off the fluids while I sit in my front seat and check emails.
By the way, if you do your own oil, don't forget to use the larger filter that fits the Ford Taurus part number PL20195 (Purolator One). More filter media=better.
 
Brutus said:
I don't remove the skids. I just reach in thru the drivers fender well. I never put it on tight enough to use a wrench either, just hand tight. It gets a bit messy at first but after doing it several times isn't bad.
Only takes about ten minutes start to finish.
Click to expand...

That's how I do it too. The fender well is way easier than dealing with the skid plate - with or without a lift. Now that I have Budbuilts, it would realy be a PITA to go from underneath. And I agree with hand-tightening it - never tighten it with a wrench, you'll have to pierce it with a screwdriver to get it back off.
 
zcruiser said:
I remove the left front tire and go in through there. If you use a cap-style oil filter removal tool it's quite easy.

otc-6905.gif
Click to expand...

This is what I did too. If you have a lift that would be even easier. Mine was tuff because those 285's on stock height get in the way but still easily done with that cap and extension
 
peter78 said:
That sounds harder than removing the skid plate.

One thing about the cap-style oil filter removal, Toyota changed filters on me around 2007. The new filters now use a different size cap. I was in the middle of changing the oil when I figured it out.
Click to expand...

I promise you it is very simple
 
I've been changing mine through the wheel well for eleven years. NOWAY is it easier to pull the skid plate. I am really good at it by now. Key is to do the filter once the motor has cooled down (of course, I drain it good and hot.) If you drop the filter it falls on top of the the skid plate in a place that is a real PITA to get it out again.

I would never let a Jiffy luber TOUCH my ride.
 
i also use the special socket to change the filter through the wheel well. i have taken my skid's off and put em back on before, and i cant say i would ever go through that trouble to change my oil. its worth the little bit of oil that drips from the filter.
 
I've always takn' my skids off... I don't want oil on there and have something else to clean up. It takes a little more time, but I have easy access to everything and clean up is a breeze.

This past time I took it to Jipp Me Lube. I didn't have time to change the oil. Never again. 5-20w Mobil1 Full Syn. Fram oil filter.
 
brian2sun said:
That's how I do it too. The fender well is way easier than dealing with the skid plate - with or without a lift. Now that I have Budbuilts, it would realy be a PITA to go from underneath. And I agree with hand-tightening it - never tighten it with a wrench, you'll have to pierce it with a screwdriver to get it back off.
Click to expand...

The Purolator One filters have the rough textured paint on them. You can grip them good no matter how much oil is on them. Hand tight is all you need. I have a strap style filter wrench if I need for removal.
9013180_ptl_w173ct70426_pri_detl.jpg
 
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