first time changing oil pan gasket..needs help

J

Jedimaster

New member
I have a 4x4 96 4runner limited that i am planning to change the gasket this weeknd due to an oil leak. I bought the gasket from pepboys but back out wondering if i could do it. Any help would be appreciated ...like what i need to take out first in order to get to the oil pan. Looking at it underneath, the front diff is in the way, making it difficult to get to the oil pan.
 
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Are you sure it is the oil pan or transmission oil pan? If it is the transmission oil pan, if I remember correctly, you have to lower the front sway bar to get to all the bolts. The T4R has a FIPG (Fill in place gasket) from the factory. I decided to clean all the gasket material off and replace with a rubber gasket. I was concerned it might leak but it did not leak at all. I used a thin layer of high temperature grease to hold the gasket onto the edge of the pan when I screwed it back in place and tightened the bolts around the pan. Worked like a champ. Gasket was replaced about two years ago and not one single drip or leak. Hope this helps.
 
I did my oil pan a while ago and I think I had to drop the front diff. Also, there is no gasket...you just use RTV. It was a total PIA. Most likely you have a leaky rear axle seal that is making it look like the oil pan. If your sure then go for it. Maybe get a new oil pickup ,my screen was pretty nasty
 
Use the force! LOL, j/k. You're in for a major PITA though. You do have to drop the front diff to do it. Before you do it, make 100% sure it's the oil pan. I'd clean it up real good with a lot of degreaser and one of those self serve car wash pressure washers. (don't make a mess of your own driveway). Once it's clean, wait a few day and check for signs of a leak. It's a big project just to find out it wasn't your problem.
 
If the leak is prevalent on the left hand side of the pan, then check to see if the oil cooler o-rings are leaking first. Also check your valve cover gaskets.
 
I have a 2wd so the trans pan is easy. I would recommend not using a gasket but rather RTV such as Permatex Trans Pan Sealant (which I used with complete success). When using a gasket, the pan will become deformed when you torque to bolts, like mine did.
 
LittleCaesar said:
If the leak is prevalent on the left hand side of the pan, then check to see if the oil cooler o-rings are leaking first. Also check your valve cover gaskets.
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I have a ton of oil, I was thinking rear main, but was looking this morning and thinking maybe it was the oil pan....I do have way more oil on the drivers side of the motor than the passengers, I did the valve cover gaskets about a year ago. So maybe the oil cooler rings?
 
Myrunr2010 said:
I have a ton of oil, I was thinking rear main, but was looking this morning and thinking maybe it was the oil pan....I do have way more oil on the drivers side of the motor than the passengers, I did the valve cover gaskets about a year ago. So maybe the oil cooler rings?
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I'm in the same boat as you, any updates? I've been dragging my heals for awhile because of the size of the job.... my leak is strangely steady, not worsening like an oil pan gasket would i thought...

Edit: 2000 SR5 3.4 V6
 
tyr0981 said:
I'm in the same boat as you, any updates? I've been dragging my heals for awhile because of the size of the job.... my leak is strangely steady, not worsening like an oil pan gasket would i thought...

Edit: 2000 SR5 3.4 V6
Click to expand...

well, i did the rear main seal while doing the clutch, and then it was realized that i had some spark plug gaskets leaking pretty bad. I replaced them (still have two leaking, not sure why). Im still putting down a little bit of oil, but haven't taken the time to crawl back under the car to figure out where. The clutch coupled with having to pull the valve cover gaskets off wore me down, lol.
 
Check the valve cover gaskets too. They'll leak down the back of the block and spread oil everywhere when they get old. It's pretty common. To do the Oil pan, you have to pull the front diff. There's not a ton to do to pul it, it's just a PIA to maneuver it from between the frame and the engine. I use a jack to lift the engine up a little, basically just taking the weight off the motor mounts. That extra little bit of room helps.
 
Yeah i'm positive my valve covers are good now (only took 3 times...) various things... But i can see the top of the engine from below and no more oil coming from the half-moons anymore. Hopefully the oil-cooler lines are leaking! i'm gonna check that out next before suffering with reality.
 
Looking for advice.....

i see felpro sells a gasket for the oil pan. If I was to do this, would it be better to use the felpro gasket or FIPG?
 
Definitely use Toyota's FIPG. Felpro just makes a gasket to sell a gasket, the proper way to use a gasket like that involves coating it in a thin layer of FIPG anyway so may as well skip the middle bit and do it how the FSM says.

Remove pan, clean well all mating surfaces, apply a small bead of FIPG to oil pan. Allow to sit for 10-15 minutes before assembly. Use threaded rods (bolts with the heads cut off) for location pins to guide the pan up, stick it, bolt it only go "hand snug, give it 20-30mins and torque it down.

Golden.
 
Permatex "The Right Stuff" is every bit as good as FIPG. The biggest difference is the Permatex stuff requires assembly immediately after application.
 
Let's determine what's actually leaking first since the oil pan is a *****. Clean everything...degreaser, scrub brush, hose, get it nice and clean and dry. Then go get some athletes foot spray powder at the drug store and spray down everything that could possibly leak. It'll leave a white film. Take if for a lap around the block and the leak will be clearly visible.
 
lbhsbz said:
Let's determine what's actually leaking first since the oil pan is a *****. Clean everything...degreaser, scrub brush, hose, get it nice and clean and dry. Then go get some athletes foot spray powder at the drug store and spray down everything that could possibly leak. It'll leave a white film. Take if for a lap around the block and the leak will be clearly visible.
Click to expand...

Rear main seal and valve cover gaskets have both been done in the last 2 months.
 
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