Flushing Sealed Tranny Fluid - Got an Idea!

[nc211]

I have the V8, which has the additional transmission cooler attached to the front of the radiator. There are two lines that go into it: One on top, one on bottom. I'm not sure which one is the delivery line, and which one is the return line? I'm not completely convinced we can't flush the system from these two lines alone. So, I was thinking: What about those brake-bleeding machines that pulls the brake fluid through the lines via suction? What if you hook up a brake bleeding gadget to the delivery line of the cooler, and placed the return line in a bucket of new transmission fluid, and then pulled the new through the system with the suction force of the brake bleeder? Just pull it until the new stuff starts to come through the line? Doesn't this seem to make sense? I'm sure you probalby have to still drain n' fill the pan though?

Mity Vac: aren't those gadgets called mityvacs?

Like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947647000P

 

[nc211]

PS: I've noticed under full throttle, I get a bird-chirp when the transmission shifts gears.... is that the tranny slipping? Anyone else get this? Or think it could be the fan belt instead?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Don't know about the bird chirp.

The flush method you're suggesting is similar to what I do which is determine which is the return and pull the line. I start the vehicle and fluid shoots out. When it starts to gurgle I shut it off, refill and restart until new pink fluid comes out, shut it off, close it up and refill. It's free too

As far as using the MightyVac to accomplish the same thing I don't know. I might be afraid to 'suck' against check valves. There may be an anti-syphon valve in the system to prevent drain-back at shutdown. I honestly don't know enough to know if there is any danger sucking on the line or not. Try it and be gentle. If the fluid doesn't flow freely and easily don't force it.

The fluid exchange machines at JiffyLube etc. basically do what I suggested with one more step. The dispelled fluid is instantaneously replaced with an equal amount of new fluid. My method has one danger and that is you could run the dry for a few seconds if you don't pay attention to the flow exiting the tube. The exchange machine doesn't have that risk. The risk of a few seconds dry (remember, it's only idling and in N or P) is minimal compared to running old fluid and well worth it IMHO.

It's really easy to tell which line to pull. When the vehicle is cold start it up, set the brake, place it in R and hold your fingers on the lines. It may take 1-3minutes but it'll be very clear which is the return; it's the one that warms up last

:cheers:
:cheers:

 

[nc211]

That's a good point about pulling against sensors and gates. God knows I don't want to cause any damage to avoid an extra hour's worth of work! I called the dealership to see how much they would charge to flush the fluid...$350! So, screw that! They said the only times they ever mess with the fluid is when people get the drain plug confused with the oil pan. From the sounds of it, I think I'm just going to do a few drain n' fills over the next 10k miles until the fluid looks new again. It's $5.20 a quart at the dealership, they say it's 3.5 quarts per drain n' fill, which I'll obviously double check. I don't put a lot of faith in dealerships in general. My "BS" detector always seems to go off in my mind...

The part # for the ATF is 00289-atfws. Online guys show it at about $4.50, which doesn't justify the shipping costs...so to the dealer I go for some ATF! I've missed having Toyota ATF on my shelf since selling my LS400. I gave the case of Type IV away with the car. Got a hole to fill on my shelf now.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

That's a good point about pulling against sensors and gates. God knows I don't want to cause any damage to avoid an extra hour's worth of work! I called the dealership to see how much they would charge to flush the fluid...$350! So, screw that! They said the only times they ever mess with the fluid is when people get the drain plug confused with the oil pan. From the sounds of it, I think I'm just going to do a few drain n' fills over the next 10k miles until the fluid looks new again. It's $5.20 a quart at the dealership, they say it's 3.5 quarts per drain n' fill, which I'll obviously double check. I don't put a lot of faith in dealerships in general. My "BS" detector always seems to go off in my mind...

The part # for the ATF is 00289-atfws. Online guys show it at about $4.50, which doesn't justify the shipping costs...so to the dealer I go for some ATF! I've missed having Toyota ATF on my shelf since selling my LS400. I gave the case of Type IV away with the car. Got a hole to fill on my shelf now.

That sounds like a good program to me... Good for you for doing it too. I think in the long run this 'lifetime' fluid is going to bite these T4R's in the butt as the fleet ages, just IMHO. IMHO we see a service bulliten that says to change it at 90k or 120k regardless of driving style and it'll reemphasize the 60k interval for those who tow.

:cheers: