Frame rust?

[anonymousgromers]

I was just wondering if you guys think the frame is screwed or if it is saveable.

Pics below

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[anonymousgromers]

I was just wondering if you guys think the frame is screwed or if it is saveable

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Some pics

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[T4R2014]

No holes? If so, spray it with oil and don't think about it. Not pretty but it will stay solid.

 

[firebirdguy]

ive been looking at buying a 4th gen & am very concerned with frame rust since im in the upper midwest. from the ones i have seen so far, those pics looks horrible! im sure pics can be deceiving but the skid plates are rusted into pieces held up with a zip tie & the rest of teh frame has some serious scaling & flaking of rust.

im sure it can be repaired/saved if there are no actual holes or weak spots, but that would scare me away unless it was a very good price/miles.

 

[4RunnerIdiot]

To me, that looks like paint flaking off, rather than scaly rust. But photos are not enough to tell. You have to get under there and start poking around, cleaning off rust, looking for holes.

 

[Jdevtac]

Go to town around the whole frame with a hammer and screwdriver. If it’s solid, get rid of the flakey crap then hit it with a protectant like stated above.

 

[T4R2014]

Go to town around the whole frame with a hammer and screwdriver. If it’s solid, get rid of the flakey crap then hit it with a protectant like stated above.

Horrible idea if you already own the car. Often times the scale is holding things together. If you’re ready to pay a welder then do it. If not, then oil it up and do yearly inspections. If you’re looking to buy a vehicle, then 100% do this.

 

[wsgoat]

At a mimimum I would carefully inspect the 2-straps that hold the gas tank in place. Based on the condition of the tank skid, I'd plan on replacing the tank straps. I'd also try and find new skid plates (especially the front)....in addition to providing protection, the front skid keeps the engine bay cleaner as it blocks alot of debris/dirt/water from getting into the upper engine area.

 

[anonymousgromers]

just to clear things up I already own the truck and live in the rust belt.

 

[Jdevtac]

Horrible idea if you already own the car. Often times the scale is holding things together. If you’re ready to pay a welder then do it. If not, then oil it up and do yearly inspections. If you’re looking to buy a vehicle, then 100% do this.

I honestly would like to know how an intact hunk of scale is any stronger than if you put a screwdriver through it?

 

[T4R2014]

I honestly would like to know how an intact hunk of scale is any stronger than if you put a screwdriver through it?

Scale can vary depending on how deep it already ate into the metal. I'm at the point where I can look at it and judge if it's safe to go at with a needle scaler and refinish, but a new guy might not. These aren't made with thick steel, and removing material is pointless if you aren't ready to weld clean metal back in. What's the point of making the hole yourself? Especially if it's a daily driver. Just look at that scale and start saving up, because that's the place you'll need welded.

I recall helping a friend remove some nasty scale from a Ramcharger. We removed what looked to be 50%+ of the material that made up the trans crossmember. It was mostly rust. Coated it and called it good. After a few days it broke. From then on we learned not to pick at thick scale without a welder.

 

[firebirdguy]

i agree, the thin black stuff peeling off is the factory paint, but under it is badly surface rusted. the scaling or deeper rust areas are in smaller spots or around brackets & stuff. but if its still solid then it can for sure be saved. wire brush & sand it & coat with a good paint or POR-15.

 

[Jdevtac]

Scale can vary depending on how deep it already ate into the metal. I'm at the point where I can look at it and judge if it's safe to go at with a needle scaler and refinish, but a new guy might not. These aren't made with thick steel, and removing material is pointless if you aren't ready to weld clean metal back in. What's the point of making the hole yourself? Especially if it's a daily driver. Just look at that scale and start saving up, because that's the place you'll need welded.

I recall helping a friend remove some nasty scale from a Ramcharger. We removed what looked to be 50%+ of the material that made up the trans crossmember. It was mostly rust. Coated it and called it good. After a few days it broke. From then on we learned not to pick at thick scale without a welder.

Sure but at least if you poke a hole through it you know you got a problem as opposed to driving around to later have a catastrophic failure, regardless of if you are ready to get it repaired or not.

 

[T4R2014]

Sure but at least if you poke a hole through it you know you got a problem as opposed to driving around to later have a catastrophic failure, regardless of if you are ready to get it repaired or not.

Fair point. But, no guarantee that someone will poke a hole through it and decide to not drive it. Shitty situation regardless. Moral of the story - get your frame fixed if it's too rusty.

 

[anonymousgromers]

I'll post updated pics again later when I get work done new skids will make her look a lot better the frame would be next hopefully they go through with that recall if they do I'll have a practically new truck as the body engine and interior are mint.

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[ScooterMD]

I bought an 07 4R 2 years ago from Ohio. It's frame had a lot of rust on it but it did not look as bad as yours. There were no obvious holes or defects and the skid plates were still (mostly) intact.

At first, I tried to sandblast off the rust. This was a complete waste of time and money. Then I started spraying it with rust dissolver (like:this). The rust dissolver worked extremely well as long as I could spray it heavily and let it soak in for several hours, repeatedly spraying as it soaked in. I probably went through two gallons of the stuff. I also tried my best to spray on the inside of the frame. I should mention I was living in Arizona and I just parked the truck in the desert beside my house and had no issue with chemicals/water dripping into the sand.

I would then wash it off really well with a pressure washer and let it dry, which only took a few hours in the AZ sun. I probably repeated this 2-3 times on the entire frame until I really didn't see much rust leftover. It worked well.

Rather soon after pressure washing and allowing it to dry (within a day or two), I would then spray it really well with rust reformer. This worked well also and I probably used 12 cans. I then sprayed parts I wanted black with chasis paint.

Overall, it worked extremely well and I see no recurrence of rust 2 years out. Will try to dig us some before/after pics. Your rust looks significantly worse so I don't know if this process would work for you. Also, my truck has been in Arizona since doing this, so who knows what would have happened elsewhere. I just relocated to the NE, so check back with me in 6 months and I'll let you know how it has held up.

 

[anonymousgromers]

I know it’s been awhile but I got some more pics of underneath, idk what you guys think in terms of its condition but in the next few weeks I’m going to sand it down and paint it over with some eastwood paint and get some of that internal rust stuff they have as well what do you guys think is it worth it to clean up or is it too far gone? One of the pics are of inside the frame

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[Pgpd324]

Just spent the last 2 days about 8 hrs. Brushing entire frame and all components with a wire brush. Then repainted everything with rustoleum. I am gonna keep an eye on it to make sure it stays looking good.

 

[TNFISHRMAN]

Frame coating

I agree with wire brushing and getting as much scale as you can off. Then spray Eastwood's or POR-15 metal prep before coating with POR-15 or Eastwood's equivalent to it. Eastwood also has a product similar to POR-15 in a spray can with a hose that you can insert into the holes of the frame and spray the inside of the frame also. The Eastwood product seems to be very similar to POR-15.

 

[anonymousgromers]

I’m pretty sure it’s not too bad yet as they usually rust from the inside out but it’s relatively Clean inside, also there doesn’t seem to be any weak spots so I should be good there, I’m going to go with Eastwood’s as I like the way it comes out better then POR-15 it also seems to last longer then the P-15


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